So I ground a few knives a while back and have just been overwhelmed with the idea of heat treating them. I have a few (a lot) questions before I get started. Basically, I need clarification on everything that I am doing in this step and I'd like to know if these will be salvageable at all after heat treating.
I have a gas forge and I am using some very thin 1080 stock. I cant wait for it to warp during quenching.
I made the mistake of grinding my bevel before heat treating. The bevel ended up being really high and thin. I also have a thermocouple and a DVM that I can read the temp by. However, I don't know how high the DVM reads. I also have a laser thermometer, but it only reads up to 1000 F.
So, first off, how do I attach a thermocouple to the knife without ruining the knife or melting the attaching apperatus (hose clamp I assume???) I've heard of being able to use magnets to tell when the metal gets over a certain temp but it doesn't really get you close to your final temp you need to be at.
Second, How hot do I want to get it? I think I remember reading that it was around 1000 C ???
Third, I don't have access to used motor oil and ATF. I also would prefer not to pay $20 to get some quenching oil off the internet. Is there anything else that I can use with this 1080 stock that will still have a low risk of warping with my thin metal.
Any other tips for heat treating / quenching that will help reduce the risk of warping would also be much appreciated.
Here are the thicknesses of the knives I am doing. One knife was just a test knife and it is like filet knife thin. I'm not too worrried about it getting damaged during heat treat, but I would like to salvage it. (Yes I know there will be nothing left of these knives once I clean them up after heat treat..Oh well, they are my first knives.) The thicker knife is only about 1/16" thin about mid way up the blade on the spine. I am aware that I need to have less heat there....a lot less heat.
Please don't criticize my design. My friends think its weird. I don't care. I like it.
I have a gas forge and I am using some very thin 1080 stock. I cant wait for it to warp during quenching.
I made the mistake of grinding my bevel before heat treating. The bevel ended up being really high and thin. I also have a thermocouple and a DVM that I can read the temp by. However, I don't know how high the DVM reads. I also have a laser thermometer, but it only reads up to 1000 F.So, first off, how do I attach a thermocouple to the knife without ruining the knife or melting the attaching apperatus (hose clamp I assume???) I've heard of being able to use magnets to tell when the metal gets over a certain temp but it doesn't really get you close to your final temp you need to be at.
Second, How hot do I want to get it? I think I remember reading that it was around 1000 C ???
Third, I don't have access to used motor oil and ATF. I also would prefer not to pay $20 to get some quenching oil off the internet. Is there anything else that I can use with this 1080 stock that will still have a low risk of warping with my thin metal.
Any other tips for heat treating / quenching that will help reduce the risk of warping would also be much appreciated.
Here are the thicknesses of the knives I am doing. One knife was just a test knife and it is like filet knife thin. I'm not too worrried about it getting damaged during heat treat, but I would like to salvage it. (Yes I know there will be nothing left of these knives once I clean them up after heat treat..Oh well, they are my first knives.) The thicker knife is only about 1/16" thin about mid way up the blade on the spine. I am aware that I need to have less heat there....a lot less heat.
Please don't criticize my design. My friends think its weird. I don't care. I like it.
