Some more dry musk ox

Mark Knapp

Mark Knapp

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I have had lots of requests for dry musk ox horn so they can be used right away, so I went through my bins and sliced some up. These are perfect for folders or inlay. They are all 3/16 of an inch thick. You are getting all slices in the set. They are dry but you should give them a couple of weeks to acclimate to your environment. The prices shown will be plus shipping. I am happy to combine orders to save you on shipping. I am happy to answer any questions, I charge only the actual amount for shipping, I ship U.S. flat rate priority. This material is guaranteed to be legal and satifaction is guaranteed, if you find it does not work for you when you get it in your hand, return it for your purchase price, please do that within 7 days. Thanks for looking Mark
Set "A" Asking $170.00Sold to Shane
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Set "B" Asking $125.00 I lost a picture somewhere along the way but, "You get the picture" Sold to Jim
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Set "C" Asking $135.00
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I have held off thinking some one with more folder skill than me should have these. But, it hasn't been scooped up and I am in love with this stuff and am going to add some to my hoard. I'll take set B. I will email you for a paypal total. Jim
 
ib2v4u said:
I have held off thinking some one with more folder skill than me should have these. But, it hasn't been scooped up and I am in love with this stuff and am going to add some to my hoard. I'll take set B. I will email you for a paypal total. Jim
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OK Jim, "B" is yours. Thanks Mark
 
Mark if you have not posted somewhere else could you give any secrets on the best way to finish this stuff and should it be sealed of anything special. Any glues that are better than others for it.????Thanks Jim
 
ib2v4u said:
Mark if you have not posted somewhere else could you give any secrets on the best way to finish this stuff and should it be sealed of anything special. Any glues that are better than others for it.????Thanks Jim
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And how about stabilizing? Is it worth doing? Or no need?
 
Farmer Phil said:
And how about stabilizing? Is it worth doing? Or no need?
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Jim and phil, You can work and finish musk ox horn, like any horn, with regular wood working tools and abrasives, however, take special care not to heat it up too much while working. Too much heat (more than what is comfortable to hold) will warp horn more than most materials. Too much heat while sanding and polishing will make horn milky white. I do not suggest stabilizing thin horn scales, the hot cure process that some, if not all, stabilizers are using now will curl thin horn scales. It is not necessary to stabilize thin musk ox horn if using just the pearly yellow part, the material is very dense and will not accept resin, however, there may be hair-line cracks in the horn that can be filled with C.A. glue (Cyano-acrilate, use a better grade of it) by dipping it in or rubbing it on. I use a vacuum stabilizer and cold cure mediums when I stabilize my own horn. Thick pieces of horn can be stabilized by hot cure commercial stabilizers without any ill effect and with great benefit, there are no pours to fill but all the hairline cracks fill nicely. Incidentally, the white part of musk ox horn is much more porous than the yellow part. It is necessary to completely fill those pores so they don't pick up polishing compound when polished. Do that by stabilizing thick pieces and rubbing in C.A. glue on thin ones. Have fun Mark
 
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