Some New Models Coming. . . Some Old Models Coming. . . . I Smell Bacon!!!!

adamlau said:
I am hoping that we see the BAD again @ 60-62 RC :thumbsup:
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I would like the added length of the LMS over the AD. It can be like the too skinny "super models" nowadays, but actually useful.

BAMS, Boney Anorexic Meaner Street.
Designed for slicing from the ground up.

Much like an Anorexic Model, it is Boney and hungry, as such it has a short temper (meaner than normal) has sharp edge(s) while being a bit harder to the touch and the biggest curve on its bottom end.
 
Revolverrodger said:
Sawbacks are not really functional
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NJBillK said:
Why have a sawback on a chopper? Just chop it...
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LOL, maybe for you guys that is true. Maybe you have not actually used a stripped and sharpened Battle Saw, or maybe you have not thought of how it could be used. Mine works very well to make notches or clean cuts as intended. It did not with the coating, but I have never seen any other saw with a coating, so I addressed that to great success.

The beaver tooth spike points that chopping yields are fine for firewood, an improvised spear or a post to pound in the ground. Sometimes you just want a precise notch or cut for a specific reason. It's quieter than chopping and creates less vibration, something that could be helpful in the right situation. Making snares, shelters, fish or other traps and snow shoes are some uses I have wanted/used a saw for. Also for a smooth notch to run rope/550 cord over the top of a branch like a snag-free self-locating guided pulley to hoist deer/elk/goat/etc for game processing, or hanging your gear, food, or trash bag out of a bear's reach has been very handy too. Then there's the hammock and mosquito net where you definitely don't want your rope to move, which if your tree trunk or posts are too smooth can be an issue. Having one indestructible tool that does all of that is extremely handy. I'm just asking for one that is a little shorter around the 8-9" range. ;)
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I get it, but those are the exact reasons that I use a saw on my SAK.

The thinner blade allows for tighter tolerances and a more accurate cut when notching, as well as being easier to manipulate. Furthermore, the smaller teeth on the SAK allow for finer cuts and more easily adjusted depth of cut, when taking small bites.

I love Busse knives, as do we all. But for my uses, a small saw is often relegated to smaller, finer detailed notches, straight cuts, and grooving for a more secure bite when binding.

If I want to do any heavier cutting with a saw, a small Silky will out cut most out there, pack down small, and often weigh around 4 ounces. When my knife weighs a pound plus, I can manage to pack an extra ounce or two. Other than that, I use a knife.
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Are the teeth cut flat, or are they angled and alternating? I can see that they are lower on the rear, but are the front of the teeth flat across the front peak (highs being front left then front right, then front left, etc)?
 
They are flat across and leave a .24" router style box cut. That could be changed, but the smoothness of the cut would change too. There are lots of other options out there and that's great, but I am kind of a big bear who is rough on things, sometimes without meaning to, so I tend to keep it simple and unbreakable. On top of that, my two boys are curiously hands on at a young 5/3 age where small things are harder to keep track of and moving parts get excessively tested. So I like that I can grab one tool they KNOW not to touch without permission and it's also easier to sharpen than a lot of those other tools too. They are still having trouble with the do not touch daddy's stuff carte blanche, but they do know not to mess with knives, guns, electric plugs and things that can burn them.
 
AZTimT said:
LOL, maybe for you guys that is true. Maybe you have not actually used a stripped and sharpened Battle Saw, or maybe you have not thought of how it could be used. Mine works very well to make notches or clean cuts as intended. It did not with the coating, but I have never seen any other saw with a coating, so I addressed that to great success.

The beaver tooth spike points that chopping yields are fine for firewood, an improvised spear or a post to pound in the ground. Sometimes you just want a precise notch or cut for a specific reason. It's quieter than chopping and creates less vibration, something that could be helpful in the right situation. Making snares, shelters, fish or other traps and snow shoes are some uses I have wanted/used a saw for. Also for a smooth notch to run rope/550 cord over the top of a branch like a snag-free self-locating guided pulley to hoist deer/elk/goat/etc for game processing, or hanging your gear, food, or trash bag out of a bear's reach has been very handy too. Then there's the hammock and mosquito net where you definitely don't want your rope to move, which if your tree trunk or posts are too smooth can be an issue. Having one indestructible tool that does all of that is extremely handy. I'm just asking for one that is a little shorter around the 8-9" range. ;)
1zl51tl.jpg

s405mv.jpg
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I passed on the BSaw, but a BSaw Jr. @ 8 inches offered, & I'd be in. I like this knafe by Vaughn Neeley, it's blade is 7.75ish" long. Good size. :thumbsup:
 
If you were to take a solid backer and some SiC sandpaper, you can taper the front half of them to get it to bite faster, and dig deeper, while leaving the back half as a flat cut to smooth your cuts out when needed.
Plus, you would only be using shorter strokes when you need to control your cuts better anyway. So the back half would be fine left square.

It doesn't take much, possibly even less than 1/16" in a drop on the alternating left and right fronts, while leaving the opposing front peak at factory height.
 
tinfoil hat timmy said:
Sawback battleshark. Sawback bossjack. Sawback SAR8. Sawback game warden. Sawback tkz/kz2/Huck. Sawback HELLRAZOR. Sawback sfno. Sawback nmsfno. Sawback NMFSH.....
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I would most definitely be in for a sawback hell razor or just a plain ol hell razor in infi
 
Yeah, before I stripped the first one, I thought about doing that many times and would lean that way if I change it. I also pondered alternating V /\ for the first 6 teeth but the extra points on top would be too aggressive and be asking for snags or cuts if bumped during other uses. It really does work well as is though, so I have not really felt the need yet. ;)
SoBS... Son of Battle Saw
TGBS
 
View attachment 719615 I'd love to see a mini battle saw !! Same knife, could be like swatmandu and SOS ?
Maybe a saber grind NMSFNO with cross cut saw teeth ?
Or how about Basic 4 blade on Boss street handle^^?
 
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Jaxx said:
I passed on the BSaw, but a BSaw Jr. @ 8 inches offered, & I'd be in. I like this knafe by Vaughn Neeley, it's blade is 7.75ish" long. Good size. :thumbsup:
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Looks like they ground the teeth pointing the wrong way on that one Jaxx;)...talon holes are pointing in the wrong direction, too.
 
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