- Joined
- Nov 8, 2011
- Messages
- 41
How do you flatten your non-precision ground stock? Do you have a surface grinder?
No, I don't have a surface grinder, only got access to one last week. I set my benchtop drillpress' table perfectly square to the chuck. With a small cup stone mounted I trued up a round piece of steel plate, about 1/2" thick. Sticking the parts down by holding them tight against the plate and putting drops of CA adhesive around each part. I don't want the adhesive between the parts and the plate as that can throw the measurement off. Putting baking soda on the CA adhesive helps it to set fast and hard, forming a fillet "weld" If the steel is really uneven I will grind it all down using a 3M 977 belt on the vertical platen, then using the drill press and a cup stone or small disk with sandpaper, bring them all to the same thickness.
Getting the bits off the plate is a simple matter of heating the plate with a gas torch, the glue will loosen before the bits starts losing temper, so it is safe to use with heat treated parts.
Photos here: http://www.knifeknowhow.com/surface_grinder.htm
I love the 5-blade mammoth, but why the proud pivots?
I etched the damascus bolsters before assembly, and getting the pins flush would have meant re-etching the damascus, possible damage to the mammoth scales, uneven etch on the bolsters... too high a risk.
Tiaan, would you care to explain how you taper the holes in the bolsters in order to blend the pins? I'd like to know how as many makers do this as possible.
I use a tapered reamer held in a pin vise.
I love that last stockman as well. What are the blade lengths on those?
Two-blade: Blade lengths: 2.6" and 1.78", closed length: 3.74"
Stockman: Main blade 2.87" from bolster to tip, other blades 1.77" from bolster to tip. Closed length: 3.62"
With all the excellent photos on this forum I discovered that the small blades on my three-blades are too short, so I will have to do some redesign...
Thank you all for the questions and the compliments.
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