Some suggestions on a budget setup for making kydex sheaths

peripatew

peripatew

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Jul 31, 2007
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Hello!

I'd like to start experimenting with some Kydex sheaths. I know they make special presses for the rivets, but what is the best budget option to get started? I've seen people use some type of screws, and some use a type of glue. I'd like to experiment with kydex before deciding to upgrade to better equipment.

I know I need a toaster oven and something to help form the kydex, but what about rivets and such?

Thanks!
 
Hi - I've done several kydex sheaths and learned from some of the best. They are very simple and inexpensive to make.

The way to press without a press is to use two pieces of foam and your own body weight. Heat to around 300F and watch the kydex carefully. The moment it starts to sag, pull it from the oven (cotton gloves are nice for this, it's a bit warm), fold it over your piece and place it between the two pieces of foam then stand on it. The more pressure you can give, the better detail you'll get. I can put a very good outline in the sheath and imprint my mark in some with less than 200lbs of bodyweight.

As far as rivets, I've only used eyelets that you "press". The tool to use is an arbor press and a set of dies. The press should only cost $30-$50 and the dies will run about $60 I believe. You can make a press out of your vise and can even fashion your own dies to do it, turning them on a drill press or a lathe. Another option is to "peen" them with a ball peen hammer, but be prepared to split many of them.

You can use PVC glue on the sheath, the kydex will melt and stick together as one welded part. Many folks rely solely on this bond, but your knife will easily cut through kydex, so it's nice to have a couple eyelets or studs of some sort to keep it from puncturing even if they aren't holding it together.
 
Less than $200 gets you a NICE setup.

Buy an arbor press from harbor freight for $50
While you are there buy THIS vise.

Buy rivets, rivet dies, and foam from knifekits.

Make some decent wooden jaws for the vise, and attach the foam. (keeps even, parallel pressure on kydex instead of the hinged version applying uneven pressure)

Drill and mount the dies on the press.

Voila, providing you have a heat source you are good to go.
 
FWIW... I just use a ~$20.00 heat gun I picked up at Lowe's. I find it to be quite easy to get the kydex up to temp, plus you can "spot heat" a small area you may need to correct without heating the whole sheath again. I think the arbor press and rivet flaring dies that were mentioned are money well spent. They do make tools to flare them by hand, but mine never came out very well...

-Mark
 
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I also like to use a heat gun for some shaping after the sheath is formed, but I like the even heat of the oven for the initial forming.
 
AcridSaint said:
I also like to use a heat gun for some shaping after the sheath is formed, but I like the even heat of the oven for the initial forming.
Click to expand...

I will second that. I purchased a toaster oven from Walmart for $20 and it is big enough to hold a full 12"x12" sheet of Kydex. I also finish fit with a heat gun.
 
If you already have adrill press, ya can mount the top die in the chuck and put the bottom die in a piece of steel drilled to fit, Save buying an arbor press
 
birdog4 said:
If you already have adrill press, ya can mount the top die in the chuck and put the bottom die in a piece of steel drilled to fit, Save buying an arbor press
Click to expand...

I was going to say that. I have been doing this for a while with good results.
 
For a press, all you really need is two piece of foam, some thick plywood, tape or glue the foam down to the plywood in a few spots to keep it on the wood and bend kydex over after heating. Kydex will actually start lifting up on the edges first....set the toaster oven to around 250'F and rotate the sheet in the oven a few times to get it evenly heated. .06 starts to melt alot quicker than .08 or thicker but takes on the form of the knife's details much easier.

Don't bother with the rivet hand tool. or even trying to set with a hammer and punch...waste of time. The dies should be less than $40 bucks from knifekits.com and use a drill press and a piece of wood with a hole drilled in it to hold the bottom die. Works great.
 
I hear that you can get the blue camping mats, the type you put under your sleeping bag, at squalor-mart for cheap & use as foam. You can cut it & glue more or less layers together maybe w/ spray adhesive. The more layers you use, the more pressure you need. If you are doing thicker stuff, like guns, you need more foam than you do for knives.

Get some a thick 2X2' piece of plywood from home depot & have them cut it into quarters for you so you have four 12X12" squares (you only need 2). Get 4 quick bar clamps from the tool section, the type that you squeeze to clamp w/ quick release. Or get THIS one at HF. They have a 4" one for $2! Perhaps THIS one would be better??? Use those to quickly apply even pressure to the four corners of the boards when you pull the kydex (or concealex) out of the oven.

That $100 dollar steel kydex press is BS, & it doesn't even necessarily apply even pressure. No offense to anyone. They are good I'm sure, but a little pricey.

You can get this fluid that will stain brass eyelets black if you like. It will be cheaper than buying the black ones in small quantity. Made by birchwood casey

Make sure you get the eyelets that you can run paracord through.

Entrek has a good deal brass eyelets & w/ free shipping! He may have a good deal on the little thing for stamping the eyelets. Supplies & Tooling Page

USA Knife maker supply has Way better prices on concealex (and maybe kydex) than Knifekits.

You will need a few small files & sand paper.

You often need to use heat gun to soften the mold a little bit in spots so you can withdraw the gun/knife b/c when it comes out of the press there may be too much interference, esp w/ guns.
 
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