- Joined
- Oct 2, 2006
- Messages
- 2,122
This might be a little wordy so bear with me if you would. I had never considered buying a Mora until I started hanging out here. I had some pre conceived notions about them without any facts I guess. They seemed cheap which to me meant probably not sharp and weak. The posts here convinced me they were sharp but how strong were they? Seeing as how they were so cheap I ordered two of the Mora #760s when I was putting in a knife order. The dealer was all out of carbon ones and clippers so I bought this one. I will try to get up some pics later but it is the "military stainless steel model".
While I was waiting for them to come in I tried to make a fireboard with my EDC knife as my only small knife. I found its edge geometry to be lacking for this task. It seemed to me that it was just too thick of an edge and blade overall. (As a side note: I can recommend to anyone who thinks they have the one knife to do it all, to try making the rounded hole for a fireboard or a trap trigger, it kinda opened my eyes.)
When the Moras came in I liked the edge geometry and the handle shape. I didn't like the slipperiness of the handle and I didn't like the sheath. (Clipper would solve slipperiness) I think they could make a sheath that has a little more retention but I will make a kydex one later probably. I was in my shop one night and got the idea to put some bicycle tube on the handle. This worked great and improves the handle 100% for me even if it looks a little rigged.
I looked through Cliff Stamp's reviews of the Mora and didn't really see anything on prying. There is probably something out there but I am search challenged and since they are not overly expensive I decided to do my own tests.
1. Bend blade in vise to see if it will bend or break either blade or handle: I put the knife 1" from the tip and grabbed it with a gloved hand and safety glasses and bent it. I bent it past 45 deg. and then looked at the blade. It had bent slightly maybe 15 degrees. I put it back in the vise and bent it back to "true" the other way. Handle was undamaged. I did this a couple of times at different blade lengths with the same results. I then put it 1 inch from the handle with the same results.
2.Tip strength. I hammered the tip into an oak block and then pried it sideways out to see if I could break off the tip. The fifth try I bent the last 1/32 inch of the tip. I tried to bend this straight on the vise and broke it off.
3. Hard to field sharpen stainless steel. I intentionally dulled the entire edge on the vise until it wouldn't cut paper. I then used my BOB sharpener a course/fine DMT to try to reprofile the edge and sharpen the entire blade. In short order I was able to shave hair off my arm with the entire blade and the point was perfect again.
Conclusions: I fully expected either the blade to break or the handle to crack or break. I now know it is strong enough for what I am going to use it for. The point bent but it was so fine I am not surprised. Maybe ss is hard to sharpen on a rock but I found the Mora easier to sharpen on the DMT than a similar test I did on a SAK. Overall I am very pleased and intend to buy some carbon blades and make some with some more traditional handles and sheaths. Bo Bergman's book "Knifemaking" available from Ragweed Forge has some great ideas in it. I have had it for years and just recently dudted it off and read it from cover to cover because of you guys.
Hope you enjoyed my little experiment. Thanks for reading and please post any thoughts.
While I was waiting for them to come in I tried to make a fireboard with my EDC knife as my only small knife. I found its edge geometry to be lacking for this task. It seemed to me that it was just too thick of an edge and blade overall. (As a side note: I can recommend to anyone who thinks they have the one knife to do it all, to try making the rounded hole for a fireboard or a trap trigger, it kinda opened my eyes.)
When the Moras came in I liked the edge geometry and the handle shape. I didn't like the slipperiness of the handle and I didn't like the sheath. (Clipper would solve slipperiness) I think they could make a sheath that has a little more retention but I will make a kydex one later probably. I was in my shop one night and got the idea to put some bicycle tube on the handle. This worked great and improves the handle 100% for me even if it looks a little rigged.
I looked through Cliff Stamp's reviews of the Mora and didn't really see anything on prying. There is probably something out there but I am search challenged and since they are not overly expensive I decided to do my own tests.
1. Bend blade in vise to see if it will bend or break either blade or handle: I put the knife 1" from the tip and grabbed it with a gloved hand and safety glasses and bent it. I bent it past 45 deg. and then looked at the blade. It had bent slightly maybe 15 degrees. I put it back in the vise and bent it back to "true" the other way. Handle was undamaged. I did this a couple of times at different blade lengths with the same results. I then put it 1 inch from the handle with the same results.
2.Tip strength. I hammered the tip into an oak block and then pried it sideways out to see if I could break off the tip. The fifth try I bent the last 1/32 inch of the tip. I tried to bend this straight on the vise and broke it off.
3. Hard to field sharpen stainless steel. I intentionally dulled the entire edge on the vise until it wouldn't cut paper. I then used my BOB sharpener a course/fine DMT to try to reprofile the edge and sharpen the entire blade. In short order I was able to shave hair off my arm with the entire blade and the point was perfect again.
Conclusions: I fully expected either the blade to break or the handle to crack or break. I now know it is strong enough for what I am going to use it for. The point bent but it was so fine I am not surprised. Maybe ss is hard to sharpen on a rock but I found the Mora easier to sharpen on the DMT than a similar test I did on a SAK. Overall I am very pleased and intend to buy some carbon blades and make some with some more traditional handles and sheaths. Bo Bergman's book "Knifemaking" available from Ragweed Forge has some great ideas in it. I have had it for years and just recently dudted it off and read it from cover to cover because of you guys.
Hope you enjoyed my little experiment. Thanks for reading and please post any thoughts.