someone willen tohelp a new-be

v-6

v-6

Joined
Nov 24, 2007
Messages
952
:confused: Here goes, after you have your handles on (wood) and pins as well as sanded how and what do you use to finish.
thanks new-be vern :confused::confused:
 
you could use pollyurathane on it. super glue, epoxy or if your going for a very natural look oil but not recommended. if you have a buffer you could get a cloth wheel and some wood rough i like this look on oak. what ever you decide try on a scrap piece 1st
there are alot of other ways also these are just some of what i have tried
 
bartblade said:
you could use pollyurathane on it. super glue, epoxy or if your going for a very natural look oil but not recommended. if you have a buffer you could get a cloth wheel and some wood rough i like this look on oak. what ever you decide try on a scrap piece 1st
there are alot of other ways also these are just some of what i have tried
Click to expand...

thanks vern
 
I rub the wood with Johnson's Paste Wax (you can get it in supermarkets and hardware stores. it comes in a yellow round tin. I like it because it protects the wood without giving that slick varnished feel (still feels like wood) the downside, is that eventually your handles will get discolored from use (my 15 year old purpleheart handles are now more brownish than bright purple, although a light sanding and rewaxing will fix that) I make using knives and my customers expect that they will look well loved after 10-15 years, so noone complains. If you want that brand-new bright finish forever use polyurethane varnish with a UV inhibitor

-Page
 
I like Danish oil quite a bit. It offers a nice finish, good protection and can be touched up with ease if it starts to wear. Any applied finish will wear with use - something to keep in mind.
 
Vern, I'm a noob, too. Nothing wrong with that, everybody starts that way. Just exactly what kind of wood are you using or considering? The reason I ask is that different woods require different finish treatments.
-Greg
 
That's similar to walnut isn't it?
You may want to have that stabilized so it doesn't crack if it is, I had a bad time with cracks in walnut, now I only use tropical woods like cocobolo, purpleheart, and Desert ironwood. Your mileage may vary
-Page
 
is there a way to learn how to stabilize wood or do i have to buy it ?
vern
thanks again vern
 
Start a new thread asking for "how to stabilize wood" if it is not one of the topics in the info stickies at the top of the forum
 
I've seen the stabilizing tutorial that Ariel Salvateria (SP?) has done, he uses a vacuum pump to pull the resin into the wood. I also saw another method that used boiling water poured over a mason jar with the resin and wood inside. I liked that one, but it has an air of danger because of the chemicals used and being near a stove. I can't find the link yet, but I'm looking.
 
Walnut should be fairly stable if appropriately dry, I would imagine it's the same with butternut. If the wood is slightly green for carvers or turners then it will move as it dries and even split if it's thin on a handle.
 
Newbe also, would oil, like Tung, Danish, or Tru, be likley to penetrate small scales and break the bonding epoxy.

I am working on a small Old Timer. I am thinking about replacing the placstic scales with wood. Would this be doable?

aquamanlr
 
aquamanlr said:
Newbe also, would oil, like Tung, Danish, or Tru, be likley to penetrate small scales and break the bonding epoxy.

I am working on a small Old Timer. I am thinking about replacing the placstic scales with wood. Would this be doable?

aquamanlr
Click to expand...
I replaced the plastic on a Schrade (I think it was an olt timer but that was a long time ago) with cocobolo for someone, it worked well enough that he liked it and ordered a custom blade from me. I don't remember enough details to give you any cautions though.

-Page
 
Danish or tung oil shouldn't penetrate far enough to break a glue bond. That being said, if you can fasten the scales mechanically, you should do so.
 
Butternut is a hickory "cariace", walnut is "juglanace". Two different species with very different grain and cellular makeup. Both are good woods for handle material but walnut will darken appreciably more with the same finishes. Butternut should respond well to chromium trixode treatment due to the sugars in the wood if there is any figure in the wood. You might want to consider using some form of filler due to the open grain or porosity inherent to both woods.
I have two antique knives similar to the old Green River skinner trade knives, one with walnut and one with hickory handles. Both survived very heavy use in their working days - estimated 1830's era - (blades are more like fillet knives now) and are still servicable if one wanted to use them.
That being said - use the wood with confidence (my two collector specimens...neither were stabilized).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top