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Pinoy Knife

Pinoy Knife

Joined
Aug 9, 2002
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Hey guy's i am seeking opinion's here , i would like to know what you think is the Perfect size / Blade shape for a Survival Knife , Handle material can be anything . No promises here but i may make it if i can get some who agree on this .

i will check this Thread twice a week to see what show's up .

E mail me if any Question's

Thank's Matt / Pinoyknife :)
 
Well, I really like large choppers, but I have enough of those (I think!) And I also think a lot can be accomplished with a mid sized knife, so here's my input: Blade length between 4-5", made from good tool steel like A2, 1095, O1 etc. flat ground, 3/16" thick, spear or drop point (heavy enough for some prying and batoning), Micarta handle, with slight integral guard/finger notch. A sheath with a tight spring clip, and lashing holes so it can be worn or strapped to a pack, with a loop or pocket for sparker or sharpener. I think something very similar to the TOPS/Jeff Randall Laser Strike, but without the coating and the raised spine would be perfect. I'd order one!
 
Have you seen the Beck WSK ? Just kiddding ;) .

I'd like a 6" drop or short clip point blade, full convex grind, 0.20" thick and 2" wide. If I may go a little farther, I'd use INFI, 3V, or S30V for the steel, all DLC coated. The knife should be full tang and the sheath should be nothing short of awesome :D .

On the other hand, I wouldn't mind a 15" khukri shaped like the HI M43 with a full convex 3V blade and canvas micarta . . .
 
Between a 4 and 6 inch blade length, good carbon steel (something like 1095), green canvas micarta scales, full tang, lanyard hole, bolted handle, drop point or slight clip point, etc.

Jeff
 
I like Doug Ritter's take on the subject LINK

He recommends a 4" to 6" fixed blade with a drop point blade (for the reasons already offered). There are lots of great knives out there that meet this description. If price was no object I'd take a look at the Busse Badger Attack.

Here's a list of the production fixed blade knives listed on Doug's site right now: LINK
 
Originally posted by jefroman
Between a 4 and 6 inch blade length, good carbon steel (something like 1095), green canvas micarta scales, full tang, lanyard hole, bolted handle, drop point or slight clip point, etc.

Jeff
Click to expand...

Sounds like an Ontario TAK :D
 
Matt... listen to these guys... @4-6 1/2" blade length, a slight clip point (think mini-bowie), steel appropriate for the northwest or a kydex lined sheath with drainage... 10 - 10 1/2" overall, palmswell, heel swell, oval tsuba-like guard that's a little longer on the edge side (think off-set oval so the top doesn't stick up too far and interfere with a choked-up grip)... well... you get the idea...
And since we've already hashed this out, I just thought I'd chime in 'cause of how many said the same thing as I did in Puyallup!

Happy Hammerin' Matt...:D :cool:
 
Go for the Buck 119 (named "Special"). 6 inch blade, clip point, hollow ground, 5/32" thick at spine (right between 2/16" and 3/16"), super tough steel (it's high-carbon, high-chrome that'a been tempered to 58 Rc hardness), etc. etc.

I absolutely love this knife. It handles everything from chopping to doing fine leather work (and is actually a favoured tool for the latter). Tough as nails, too; I've never heard a failure story.

And to beat all, I bought mine for $54 CAN at Wal-Mart. That's anout $37 - $38 US, if you can believe it. (Buck sells theirs for $71 US.)

Click here: http://www.buckknives.com/products/details.php?ID=28
 
I don't mean to speak for Matt, but I think some may be misreading his post. He is a custom maker looking for input on what we would want in a survival knife, not looking for a reccomendation on an existing knife. So please post your dream blade! I really want to see this one come to life. :D
 
Then I'll expand on what I've already posted:

*4" to 6" blade
*Drop point or short clip with no swedge
*3/16" to 1/4" thick at spine
*Broad blade--1 1/" to 1 1/2" at the heel
*Full flat grind
*Edge thin enough for slicing but thick enough for light chopping and other hard use. I'll defer to Cliff Stamp's and others experiments and experience here.
*Drop edge (I think that's the right term) instead of a guard so you can get the heel of the blade on the cutting surface.
*full tang
*tapered tang to save weight
*Micarta or G10 scales
*Good handle ergonomics
*Good steel w/good heat treat Tough but easy to sharpen or reprofile (repair) if necessary in the field.

Sounds a lot like a Busse Badger Attack, Buck Strider Solution, Ontario TAK or Rinaldi TTKK doesn't it ;)
 
T K knife you are correct i am Looking for "Dream Knives " Possibly a New Line just For "Survival " minded people , Blade Material can be ANYTHING Stainless / Tool steel / Damascus / Weird Alloy ! Handle/ Handle material anything except Ivory. Please Guy's i really want to see this !! if you dream about a buck knife tell me what you love about it and why ?

Thank's Everyone !

Matt / Pinoyknife :)
 
i think about a piggy back set, a small three to four inch blade, like the knives of alaska bear cub for doing fine work sharp point and choil to choker up on, and a larger chopper style blade maybe 7 -9 inches, thick spine that will take abuse,flat grind,should also have a double choil to choke up on, steel can be at the purchasers request, but i think something in 3v might be a great setup, also the small blade could be offered in talonite as an option.

alex
 
Originally posted by Pinoy Knife
if you dream about a buck knife tell me what you love about it and why ?

Thank's Everyone !

Matt / Pinoyknife :)
Click to expand...


Well, after I've made myself look like an idiot... :D

First of all it's the blade size. 6" is a perfect compromise between small and big. As I said, it's good for "big" jobs and good for "small" jobs. (I have yet to try batonning, but I doubt it'll do bad.)

The false edge on the back of the clip point is great, too. I've owned an almost identical knife without this, and it just wasn't the same.

The steel is great. Sure, it's stainless, but at 58 Rc I don't see a problem there. And because it's stainless it's pretty good for maitenance.

The one thing I'm not crazy about is the handle, which is just plastic. With the guard and shaped pommel to keep my ahnd in place I haven't had a problem yet, but if I were ever to seriously take this thing into the bush I might to something stupid like wrap hockey tape around it, just for some grip. Buck sells a cocobola version, and this would be nice.

For this to be an absolute dream knife, I'd want a sturdier butt cap/ pommel; one that I could hammer on (if I needed to) without fear I'll be breaking the tang pin or something. I'd also want the back part of the guard to be a bit bigger (for increased comfort and maybe an illusion of increased safety) and, like I said, a wood handle. And an ambidextrous sheath with pocket for sharpening stone and something to start a fire with.
 
Alco- you also hit on one of my favorite things- big knife/little knife piggyback combos! For something like that, 3V for the big blade would be awesome, and Talonite or S30V for the little guy. (Don't wanna hijack your idea, but I think it's a winner too!) Along with the piggybacked knife, a pouch or some other type of attatchements for a sharpener and firesteel would round it out perfectly. With that package, you could literaly hit the bush with only the clothes on your back (and the proper skills) and be OK.
 
4.5-4.75 " of "cutting edge". Carbon either A-2,or 1095, drop point, full flat ground, thickness between 1/8, and 5/32 " No bolsters, pommels,bells or whisles. Slight interagal guard, Micarta handles.

Regards
Ravenn
 
Ok So a couple are thinking Piggyback Pair , maybe a 4 inch blade for "Work " and say a 10 incher for "Business". or a flat ground 6 inch blade slight drop point,

Yo Yo don't feel picked on i don't want to hurt anyones feeling's , i just said Buck beacuse if that is your favorite that is fine.

JDMSMBACPA yours looks like a idea ,

keep them coming guy's this could turn into something !

Thank's again Matt:)
 
Feel free to "shrink" the knife I outlined above into the smaller knife in a pair. I think it would complement an 8" to 10" blade chopper nicely.

I've also thought a traditional Leuku and Puukko combination executed in modern materials would be really cool. You could do the Puuko blade in S30V or Talonite and the Leuku blade in something tough. You could use G10, Micarta, Carbon Fiber or the like for the handles and put it all in a Nylon and Kydex sheath with storage for a fire steel and diamond hone(s) for field maintainance.

One more idea I've had--and this one is off the wall--is to put a finger hole in a drop edge blade just ahead of and above the heel. It would be sort of like a choil but it would not reduce the length of the cutting edge. Picture a Rinaldi TTKK or TUK with a finger hole just ahead of and above the "guard" formed by the drop edge (centered vertically on the blade). Obviously this would ot be a good idea for a chopper or a pry-bar, but with a thick enough spine above the hole and enough material below it, it might not weaken a utility knife too much. Again, just a goofy idea, but it might be worth trying . . .
 
full tang and micarta handles, yea micarta that the ticket, in subdued and bright colors, they are the most durable and hand friendly if you dont like the shape you can customize with sandpaper.

unless you want a presentation set, then some good wood or stag ot ivory.
i like knives you can hammer through a pelvic bone of an elk and it laughs at me and says "is that all you got punk". and maybe you can make a matching axe head like the gransfors bruks hunters axe, good size and portability for the hunter on the move. that weay a guy could pick the big knife, the small knife and the axe and make his own combos for whatever trip he was taking.

alex
 
I designed a knife which Jack Crain made for me. I call it the "Survival Guide" you can see a small picture of it with a short description on my web page-
www.geocites.com/placeknives/index.html
It's essentially a modified, modernized British MOD4, but much more sleek and graceful. It's 6 1/2" blade is full 3/16" thick full flat ground. The black linen Micarta handle is very comfortable. I had him use 1/4" hollow pins on the handle in the event that I had to lash the knife to a spear, or otherwise secure it in the sheath. It has enough heft and weight up front to chop pretty well without being too heavy. It also works well for more delicate tasks, and it's tough enough to club through wood for splitting chores.
Call me crazy, but I'm also a fan of well made hollow handles knives. I like the idea of always having a knife AND a means of making fire on me all the time.
 
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