Sooo...if a guy wanted to get started...

S

Soilarch

Joined
Oct 15, 2007
Messages
297
making knives how long does it normally take before he's got enough experience/knowledge to make a lasting blade (get the whole hardening process down)? How much, in general is the start up cost?

I know this is probably asked more frequently than you veterans would like. I've done some searching here and know that the actual shop can be built for very little. But getting an inventory of steel (don't have a clue where to find old files or even if there IS a place around here...what type of steel are most files made of...is there an industry standard for files?...I'm rambling, sorry) handle material, and everything else...what's a reasonable guess on that?

I think I'm being realistic in saying it'll likely be summer before I can make a blade worth selling (and NO, not for the prices you guys ask...that'll be years) and I keep putting it off saying, "When I'm done with school, making real money, blah blah blah." That's a pretty sucky attitude in my book and if I want to start something I oughta start it.
 
If it matters to anyone I'm trying my best to do as much footwork as possible,

found out most files are W-1 (only one source) for what its worth and in case it's not common knowledge.
 
i began to learn the process from the standpoint of "keeop it as primitive as possible". try using only the raw elements. i made my first knife with a RRspike, campfire, and a rock and a hammer with water to quench. earth fire and water. in this way i learned the basic most important aspects first. from there, it becomes an exercise in refinement. using period blacksmith tools, then modern tools, and thus having a higher standard of fit and finish. (i was going to say higher standard of quality, but thats more a measure of functionality and the proper process to me, not how shiny it is. my most rustic, primitive knives cut and work just as well as the ones im making now. my new ones just have much better fit and finish, and look more professional.
 
What kind of knife are you wanting to make, stock removal or forged? Folding, Full tang, Hidden tang etc?
 
ummm....nothing specific,

What I've envisioned is a full tang, wood handled, removed fixed blade.

Either standard "hunting" size (3-4" blade) or a small neck knife.

hmm...on second thought that IS specific, lol


Trust me, the KISS principle is my friend!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I appreciate the link Keith, thanks
 
avoid many new problems associtaed with mystery metal and get a known steel. that is step number 1 cause with out knowing exactly what u got , u wont know what to do with it. i started out with files and sandpaper for doing my bevel work. cheap, easy just litle more time then belt grinder. i still finish my bevels after i rough them in on the belt grinder. get some books and read i think i read like 5 -6 books on the subjest and spent more hrs then i can remember lurking here on the forums reading everything, even the stuff i didnt understand cause now i can reflect back and go i get that now.
 
Dakota 11 said:
avoid many new problems associtaed with mystery metal and get a known steel. that is step number 1 cause with out knowing exactly what u got , u wont know what to do with it. i started out with files and sandpaper for doing my bevel work. cheap, easy just litle more time then belt grinder. i still finish my bevels after i rough them in on the belt grinder. get some books and read i think i read like 5 -6 books on the subjest and spent more hrs then i can remember lurking here on the forums reading everything, even the stuff i didnt understand cause now i can reflect back and go i get that now.
Click to expand...

Totally agree; if you get a good metal you will just have a better incentive to make sure your work it great!! Just my opinion!
 
I would start with 01 tool steel it is easy to heat treat, not very expensive and makes a good knife.
 
Starting off with file steel is not as sure as you are thinking it is. It isn't always W1, and actually I have about 50 old files that I make knives with from time to time and they're all W2. Files can also be made of 1095, as well as case carburized. If it's case carburized, it won't get hard when you heat treat it, since the inside is low carbon steel.

Ickie
 
Nobody else has said it yet, so I will:
1095 or 1075 are CHEAP at www.admiralsteel.com

If you go like I did early on, $20 (including shipping) will get you 12 month's worth of steel :)
 
Heres how I wish I had started: Buy a 18" piece of 1 and a quarter wide 3/32" O1. Shape only the blade and then start making the blade bevels. When you have that then do a full tang handle and do not drill for bolsters and pins. Look in the phone book for heat treaters around you or call metal shops/machinsts to see if they or someone can harden the blade for you. When you get it back polish it as fine as you can to 2500 grit wet or dry. Get it down where you can sharpen it while you do this. Use wood or cardboard for a sheath or case. Carry it around and use it as is. You will learn alot and pass a hurdle many do not: The first knife. You will need the bar of steel, two 'C' clamps and a big rough file... good luck:thumbup:
 
As a student and farm hand, both time and money are probably short. Start simple, and build up as you progress. The phrase, "start with files" ,does not mean for blade steel. It means to use them to shape the blade steel. Start with a bar of 1075/1080, O-1,or 5160(I recommend the 1075/1080). All these are quite cheap and readily available. If you haven't already done so, get a book or two on knife making. Many start with Wayne Goddard's, "The $50 Knife Shop".
Good tools aren't cheap, and cheap tools can be more expensive in the long run.It may take you a year (or many) to acquire the tools to do more advanced knives,or you may have access to a full shop through a friend or another maker in your area. The learning speed is strictly a product of your natural talent and ability to learn a skill. Some makers start with a thousand posts on this forum, buy all sorts of tools, and build three so-so knives. Others (like Knifemaker 87) start out with fairly simple home built equipment, and produce a sword of top grade almost immediately. For a guide line figure it will take a year to produce good salable knives. Three to five to made top grade ones.
Stacy
 
bladsmth said:
As a student and farm hand, both time and money are probably short. Start simple, and build up as you progress. The phrase, "start with files" ,does not mean for blade steel. It means to use them to shape the blade steel. Start with a bar of 1075/1080, O-1,or 5160(I recommend the 1075/1080). All these are quite cheap and readily available. If you haven't already done so, get a book or two on knife making. Many start with Wayne Goddard's, "The $50 Knife Shop".
Good tools aren't cheap, and cheap tools can be more expensive in the long run.It may take you a year (or many) to acquire the tools to do more advanced knives,or you may have access to a full shop through a friend or another maker in your area. The learning speed is strictly a product of your natural talent and ability to learn a skill. Some makers start with a thousand posts on this forum, buy all sorts of tools, and build three so-so knives. Others (like Knifemaker 87) start out with fairly simple home built equipment, and produce a sword of top grade almost immediately. For a guide line figure it will take a year to produce good salable knives. Three to five to made top grade ones.
Stacy
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I echo what Stacy said, although it takes me longer. It depends entirely on you, how you learn and how often you practice. That being said, I'd like to suggest that you don't get into knifemaking with the idea that you're going to be selling knives in X amount of months/years. Take it as a hobby and grow into a business at a later date if you choose.
 
Start small and work your way up. Call up a knifemaker's supply shop such as Texas Knifemakers Supply or Koval Knives or any other. Get a catalogue or do it online.

Purchase just the basics to get started. Buy some files and hand tools, a decent vise, drill, and sandpaper. Those will get you started. Get some cutlery grade steel such as 440 and start profiling your blade. Drill all your holes out and send out for heat treat.

After doing a few, you will decide if knifemaking is for you. If so then it is time to spend just alittle money. With some money and several easy monthly payments, acquire some equipment. Get a decent 2 X 72 grinder, along with belts from 50 grit 120,320,400 and some fine micron finishing belts.

Add a drill press, and a buffer, and a wood cutting bandsaw for handle material.

Include a metal cutting bandsaw, and buy or build a heat treating oven.

You may like to try forging, in this case you will need to build or buy a forge, and an anvil and or power hammer.

Start simple and build up over time. Great knives can be made with simple tools, but if the knifemaking bug bites, then the sky is the limit when it comes to building a knifeshop.

What is real important is time and patience, and a genuine interest in making and creating knives. The final outcome knife workmanship quality will reflect that. One word of warning, don't expect to become rich off of doing this, as very few have.

Go for it and enjoy.
 
Find a knifemaker near you and call them up. A lot of makers are listed in the knives annual. Some even offer classes ;), but most are happy to show you how to get started.
 
I'll look at the site recently mentioned, get some catalogues, continue reading here for awhile, and maybe start one over the christmas holiday.

Like someone already mentioned, the cost of tools are what really have me scared, but also no the very very basic necessities shouldn't add up to much.


I'm not looking to get rich by any means, I really don't plan on "making" any money at all, but if I can makes a little extra on the side next year during school it would sure be welcomed...and I have yet to know what it feels like to be paid for something you enjoy. (I like the farm, but it's a different scenerio altogether.)
 
Enco has the best deal I've found on precision ground, Starrett brand, O1 flat stock. Their price is less than some oversize, hot-rolled stuff I've seen. Not to mention they ship same day, and, from their Ohio depot, it usually takes one day to arrive on my doorstep.
 
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