sorry a few more bow questions

RescueRiley

RescueRiley

Joined
Mar 22, 2006
Messages
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I was wondering what the pros and cons of a compund bow are I've seen the guys at the range get bull after bull with thier compunds sighted in, with more ease than the recurve shooters (this is a general statement, thier are also some recurve shooters at my range that could part your hair at 100ft.) but it seems at least to an inexperienced observer that compuinds are a little easier to master once you've got them tuned (no offense to anyone, I don't know this as a fact but as an obsevation which maybe incorrect). It dors seem that there is a lot of moving parts (which means more can go wrong). And whats the deal with bow sights?? do you need them on a compound? do youset them at various yardages like a rifle scope?? ANd for the compound owners out there What type of regular maintenance is required and how often. any help would be great... Thanks
 
Your assessment that a compound is easier to shoot once you have it tuned is pretty true. I don't think you can get too much argument on that; however, the trick is in getting it tuned. There are many compound shooters who can pull off masterful shots without any significant tuning, and pretty much fire it out of the box. However, the temptation to tune your bow is too great, especially when it makes it easy to experiment with immediate effects on your accuracy.

Yes, there are a lot of moving parts, and not all compounds are up to the task of hardcore outdoor work (most are, but a lot of compounds are range-only for competition).

Bow sights are NOT required, and I'm not sure how many people really use them. Certainly instinctive archers don't rely on them, because the time it takes to use a sight could result in a target getting away.

Maintenance on a compound is not too different from a recurve or longbow: about once a year, you add lubrication and wax and thoroughly check the strings for wear and tear. Removing the string is definitely more complicated on a compound, of course.

Many of the myths surrounding compounds as being stubborn, jammy, or cumbersome to use in an emergency are just that--myths. They're a definite improvement in technology over traditional bows (I like a traditional recurve myself because it has two working parts: bow and string), and are definitely easier to shoot.

Hope this helps.
 
Compounds using sights require almost zero practice to find the bullseye consistently once they are dialed in. You can shoot compounds "instictively" as well. They are excellent to use from treestands and ground blinds because of their compactness. Obviously, they are also easier to hold at full draw. Don't fall for the compounds 300+ f.p.s. selling point, though. You still have to use a relatively heavy arrow with a razor sharp broadhead to kill game efficiently, and an ultralight arrow traveling at 300 fps is still moving much slower than the speed of sound, thereby enabling any game animal to "jump the string". Target acquisition and follow-up shots are also slower for the average joe using a compound vs. a recurve or longbow. Using a recurve or longbow demands hours and hours of practice and fine tuning your arrows to your bow for perfect arrow flight. You become very intimate with your equipment and you learn your limits in this manner, something you should always consider before you gut shoot an animal from 40 yards away because you think your wheelbow enabled this kind of shot.
 
Great post by Maquahuitl! Very true in the draw weight versus arrow weight issue.

One thing I forgot to mention is that one should be very conservative in tuning.

Compound bows make it easy to change nearly every aspect of your shooting by turning a dial or adjusting a knob, adding a weight here or there, etc.

That doesn't make it a good idea to do so freely. I am aware of a few good bowyers who have complained about New Guy buying a compound bow, and coming back after six weeks with the thing totally screwed up. Seems New Guy was very eager to experiment with changing the tuning, and got it past his own ability to dial it back. I can totally believe this.

Make small adjustments over time, as an "obvious fix" may not be so: you may, for example, adjust the draw weight to reduce power when in fact the problem is more with your release. The ideal situation is to practice with someone very familiar with both archery methods as well as compound tuning to give you assistance and pointers.
 
if I do decide to opt for a compund I'll leave the tuningto the tech at the range untill I know what I'm doing...(was never very good at physics) all those pulleys scare me. I've shot recurve periodically throughout my life, I was adequate, never awesome I was also self taught through trial and error and am sur that my form is horrific....and needs adjusting before my bow does
 
Everyone has answered with some very valid points. I worked in an archery proshop for a number of years and worked on compounds and shot them quite a bit. My advice would be to stay away for the ultra fast whiz bang bows and get a more middle of the road bow with the smallest cams, or solo cam, you can find. The hotrod bows that shoot a gazilion FPS are the ones that require the most tuning and upkeep and break the most. My dad still has an old hoyt round wheel 50% bow that he has to shoot at 5 spot targets to not ruin his arrows. I don't know how many deer it has killed and the only "tuning" he does is routine maintenance. Heavy arrows, at least 400grs or more, will be easier on your bow and kill more effeciently, regardless of which style you chose.

If you go to a competent pro shop, buy a bow that fits you and is a comfortable draw weight, arrows spined and sized for your draw, pin sights and a peep you will be hitting the target the first day and bulls by the end of the week. A traditional bow might give more challenge and sense of accomplishment but takes much more practice and will never be as deadly accurate or powerful. Chris
 
cool thanks guys....RB you are a real renessaince man, alot of varied experiences...nice to have some one like you as a resource thank you and everyone else for your knowledgable advice and answers...much obliged
 
RescueRiley said:
cool thanks guys....RB you are a real renessaince man, alot of varied experiences...nice to have some one like you as a resource thank you and everyone else for your knowledgable advice and answers...much obliged
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Thank you for the compliment but not really. The things I know the most about are pretty much worthless knowledge. I am envious of the guys that are interested in practical, applicable things that you can make money at. There is not much profit in fishing, hunting, dogs, canoes and kayaks, or woodcraft in general, but I do have a good time.:D
 
that's what counts :) money is just another tool for getting what I need...seems somehow for alot of the world its become the only one...money values change but sweat and knowledge is always of worth...and as long as your happy than you life is truly a succesfull one. Thanks for all the help.
 
I started with recurve, went to compound years later and after just a few years, went back to the stick.

The compound was designed so that those, that couldn't for one reason or another shoot a more traditional style of bow, could still enjoy archery.
 
longbow50 said:
The compound was designed so that those, that couldn't for one reason or another shoot a more traditional style of bow, could still enjoy archery.
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Technically, my understanding is that the compound bow began when a British inventor asked himself "If I could design a bow, with all modern components and technology and with absolutely no constraints toward tradition whatsoever, what would it look like?"

And the damn thing worked. I don't think the initial intent was to make it easy for folks to use (I gather the first couple of designs were not easy), but the idea caught on fast.
 
RescueRiley said:
I was wondering what the pros and cons of a compund bow are I've seen the guys at the range get bull after bull with thier compunds sighted in, with more ease than the recurve shooters (this is a general statement, thier are also some recurve shooters at my range that could part your hair at 100ft.) but it seems at least to an inexperienced observer that compuinds are a little easier to master once you've got them tuned (no offense to anyone, I don't know this as a fact but as an obsevation which maybe incorrect). It dors seem that there is a lot of moving parts (which means more can go wrong). And whats the deal with bow sights?? do you need them on a compound? do youset them at various yardages like a rifle scope?? ANd for the compound owners out there What type of regular maintenance is required and how often. any help would be great... Thanks
Click to expand...


Compound bows are fairly simple once you become familiar with it. Just as this site is filled with knowledge. Go over to Archerytalk for some excellent info. Once a bow is tuned it will be reliable for some time. It is good to check and make sure everything is tight from time to time. Also do a visual check of the all the parts to inspect for any damage or wear. Over time the string will stretch and may need to be twisted and or replaced. Any info needed feel free to PM me and I will be glad to help...Jim
 
runningboar said:
Thank you for the compliment but not really. The things I know the most about are pretty much worthless knowledge. .:D
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I sure can relate to that. Try explaining knife sharpening and reloading to people that love golf so much they watch it on TV!!! Wait, you probably already have:)
 
Cost per arrow is a big issue when your first starting to shoot a bow. With simple tools that you can make your self, you can make good wood arrows that are cost effective and you are more willing to take hard or odd shots with. Good arrows is the key, but it is not that hard to do. A recurve or long bow will spit anything you put on the string, If there matched they will put them in the same spot. With a compound there just a lot more picky. Cut your cost per shot and you will just shoot more.
The performance issue is VERY over blown. I own a chronograph, bow scales, grain scales, ballistics gelatin material, calculates and other test equipment. I have spent many hours disproving the mythes that are perpetuated by compound shooters. I have nothing to gain from it, I just hate it when someone spouts numbers as facts that they have not verified.
 
Riley,

I'll try to stay on topic and not take the bait regarding compound vs. recurve. As was mentioned in one of these threads, if your interest is only in target practice and small game, AND it is your desire to be able to pack it up and tote it along with your other outdoor/survival goodies, it seems to me that a takedown recurve fits the best.

Compounds are going to be at least 30" and one-piece recurves significantly longer than that. A takedown will fit in your pack. Arrows will likely be around 30", depending on your draw length. I recall one guy managing to hide a couple in the vertical tubes of his pack frame. Another option would be one of those fishing pole tubes. Very non-threatening to the sheeple!

I second jll346's recommendation of www.archerytalk.com. Great bunch of guys and lots of help available for beginners. There is good info at www.huntingnet.com also. There are also some great traditional archery forums to check with.

-- FLIX
 
I'll probably go down to the shop and check out some stuff this week they sometimes sell bows in great shape that someone wants to off load so they can get the next new model...I was looking on line and found the pse deer it looks pretty simple but costs around 200 dollars was wondering if anyone knows if that's a bargain priced like a p.o.s or a p.o.s priced like a pos...jll346 thanks for the help and I may end up shooting you an email...much obliged to everyone.
 
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