Sort of......About Cameras (which seem to be essential to posting here).

[BG42EDGE]

On another thread, Bertl said he does most of his hunting anymore with a Nikon or a Canon.

Well, that's true for me.....and I probably take more pictures to post here than I do anywhere else.

So I thought maybe sharing info on our choices in cameras could be helpful in more ways than one.

I have this:

For most things......and this:

For when I have to travel light (it's actually much smaller than the first one, a vest-pocket type).

So for all who want to share.....show us your camera and tell us what's good or bad about it. There are probably some who are in the market for a new one and could use the information. (I could.)

I like these two because they are among the few that still take the old AA batteries and I never want to be stopped by a dead battery (and never will as long as I throw a few spares in my pocket when I head out).

They've been reliable and easy to use, have plenty of features and capability and they didn't cost an arm and a leg (under $200).

I find that the 12X Zoom has been plenty for all my needs.

 

[Stelth]

I used to really be into 35mm photography. This past Christmas I got my first digital camera. I wanted something so small I would actually take it with me when I went somewhere. This is what I take all my knife pictures with now:

Nikon Coolpix S6000.
Here are a few samples of pictures I've taken with it.

 

[Tahts-a-dats-ago]

Ahhhhh, two of my loves merged together: knives and photography. Life doesn't get much better than that.



I have a fairly good collection of cameras - some film and some digital - but my most used camera is the Pentax Kx. For a 35mm camera, it is very light weight and easy to carry. I like to use it a lot because it is so versatile and can make good pictures all the way up to ISO 12,800 (if you use noise reduction software). That makes for extremely good low-light shooting. I don't really like using flash - other than for fill-in on daytime shots.

It is an entry level 35mm camera, so the price is very attractive and there is an extensive arrangement of lenses available for use (often at very good bargains if you buy older lenses). This camera offers a full array of user options; everything from automatic to full manual control.

The Kx is not weather sealed though - so those who venture out in the nasty weather (hard rain, lots of dust, etc..) might want to think about a sealed system if they're frequently out in really nasty weather.



I also have the Pentax K5. This is marketed as a serious enthusiast or entry level pro model and is considerably more expensive. This camera is weather sealed but to take full advantage of that, you must also purchase weather sealed lenses. The Pentax K5 is a fantastic camera; worth every single penny of its cost. But it isn't the camera to have if you're just getting into photography.

I prefer 35mm cameras - as opposed to point & shoot cameras - because of their ability to capture action, shoot in low light and control the DOF. Because of the larger sensor, a 35mm camera will also allow you to print at larger sizes and capture more detail.

They are heavier and more bulky though and there is always the possibility of introducing dust (onto the mirror) if you aren't careful when you change lenses. Of course there is also the added expense to owning a 35mm system: the body is usually more than a point & shoot camera and lenses can be very expensive. (lenses make a tremendous difference though - so buy the best you can afford)



If you really want to capture detail, you'll need a larger sensor (over the 35mm). I cannot afford the MF (medium format) digital cameras, but I do own two MF film cameras (both are Mamiya brand). They are large, heavy, bulky and completely irrational for carrying on a long walk or hike. But the pictures, when done right, are absolutely stunning. You can see even the smallest details. Such cameras are in wide use in studios and many people use them for landscape shots. They are not well suited for action type shots.

For detailed shots of knives, a MF camera is hard to beat if you've got a small studio and the proper lighting. The film versions can be had for relatively little money, but you will have the added expense of film and processing. You can have the lab digitalize your shots (they're huge files) if you'd like.

To be honest, I only use my MF cameras when I'm making a special landscape shot. I don't have a studio and don't want one.

Below are a couple of shots that I've taken with the Pentax Kx

 

[postfallsidaho]

I love my Nikon L110. Its a better camera than I can ever actually, fully use. I use my wifes' pocket Nikon (sorry the model # escapes me) when we are out and about. Nikons are hard to beat for the money. My old Kodak worked, but the pictures never really turned out as clear.

 

[300Bucks]

I have several cameras, i will swear that two of my point and shoots are sharper than my big Canon. I am no expert but for anyone who needs ideas, look for a couple of old threads by me on knife photography. BUT.....Number one for me is tripod, Tripod,TRIPOD. Then use your self timer to cut down shake. As far cameras go to put on the web 8 MP is plenty big enough. 5 will be plenty big , if you don't really blow up part of the scene, you don't need to publish a photo larger 800 pixels on a side o rit won't fit on some of the small comp screens. My fav camera is a p and s Fuji, but it is only 5 Mp. 300 Bucks

 

[Pack Rat]

Cameras and Buck Knives. Fun Combinations. I do like the larger megapixels for when I do some cropping to get a good close up, like a tang mark. The more mp's it seems the better pic after a crop. I am betting that you can't buy a quality camera, like in the pics above, new that is less than 10 mp. Haven't really looked lately. I think the new one I want is 16.

I have been playing with cameras and minimal photography things since about 12 years old. One cool story was me winning a trip via new subscriptions on my paper route, so many years ago. The Houston Chronicle took about 20 of us kid paper carriers to Monterrey Mexico for 4 days. Had a fairly new Brownie camera and toward the end of the trip I went into a camera shop to buy a roll of film.

The shop owner offered me a huge amount for that little camera so I sold it, since I had pretty much taken all the pics I needed. Went back home and bought a better one and had money left.

But anywho.. The current is a Nikon D80, which I would like to upgrade bodys. Couple of lenses, but the interesting one is a 60mm macro that can focus down really close. If there is a flaw in something, it will show it. Anxious to shoot some blade edges with it.

The first nikon was a Nikkormat FT that I bought in Germany in 66. I wish they would made a new DSLR as simple as that old camera is to operate. These new ones have way too much junk built in them, if a DSLR.

I am glad our knives don't go out dated as fast as these cameras and puters do.

 

[CaseyChaos]

I take photography fairly seriously. I've amassed too much gear and still want more!

Canon 50D
Canon 17-55mm f2.8 IS
Canon 85mm f1.8
Canon 50mm f1.8
Canon 70-200mm f2.8 L IS
Canon 300mm F4 L IS
Tokina 11-16mm f2.8

Some shots of which I'm proud (click the photos and you can go see larger versions):

 

[BG42EDGE]

Wow!

We're getting some great examples of pictures here.

Beautiful.

Here's one got the other day.

 

[sitflyer]

Bladeforums is the main reason I finally decided to figure out how to use my Canon Rebel xti...given to me 3 years ago.
I have been a photographer since about age 12...with an Argas c3...on up to a Nikon FE...my staple for about 25 years. So the wife buys me a Canon and all I could do was point and shoot on automatic...not very effective for knife photography. I still have a lot to learn, but at least now I can bracket my exposures and play a little with depth of field.... Whatever happened to EKTACHROME?

 

[BG42EDGE]

I have several cameras, i will swear that two of my point and shoots are sharper than my big Canon. I am no expert but for anyone who needs ideas, look for a couple of old threads by me on knife photography. BUT.....Number one for me is tripod, Tripod,TRIPOD. Then use your self timer to cut down shake. As far cameras go to put on the web 8 MP is plenty big enough. 5 will be plenty big because you don't need to publish a photo larger 800 pixels for side. My fav camera is a p and s Fuji. 300 Bucks

One thing about taking pictures of knives......you soon learn that flash is usually your enemy. So what 300Bucks says about tripods is key. Cutting down on shake means sharper pictures when using available light.

That self-timer trick is useful--people who haven't used it should give it a try. Sometimes you are forced to go without the tripod and just brace against something as best you can. Using the self-timer for that situation can be a big help, too.

For those looking for new cameras, some of the new ones have really good image stabilization systems that help you take better hand-held pics (even at slow shutter speeds in low light)......check them out--some are better than others.

Also.....with the tripod, sometimes you want to take a knife picture straight down at a knife on a table or other flat surface.

One way to accomplish this is to lengthen the trailing leg of the tripod more than the forward two. Then lean the tripod (the two leading legs of it) against the table edge and tilt the camera straight down. This works best with a lower table. You'll find that you can take a straight down pic and eliminate anything extraneous from your picture (like tripod legs or your own feet). I really hate seeing irrelevant and distracting stuff showing up in knife pics.

Taking really good pictures is easier than you may think, and the more complicated functions of these new cameras are not black magic and witchcraft......they can actually be understood and used pretty easily if you take the time to sit down and read your camera information. BTW.....most of that information will be on a computer disk these days, so don't think the instruction book will cover your needs--it won't. Load the disk and read all about it on your computer.

:thumbup:

 

[300Bucks]

Good thread. All comments useful I am with Packy, if they made my old nikkormat ftn with a digital back i would be a really happy camper....... 300

Edit: Whats sad because it is a "old" film camera its only worth a fancy steak dinner, even in good shape.

 

[Pack Rat]

Taking really good pictures is easier than you may think, and the more complicated functions of these new cameras are not black magic and witchcraft......they can actually be understood and used pretty easily if you take the time to sit down and read your camera information. BTW.....most of that information will be on a computer disk these days, so don't think the instruction book will cover your needs--it won't. Load the disk and read all about it on your computer.
:thumbup:

Black magic ..... I think it is more old age and memory cells...

*Now back to looking for that timmer setting AGAIN*

 

[BG42EDGE]

I use the self-timer a lot, because I find that a fair number of my shots are setting an automatic shutter speed of 1/20 or 1/30th of a second and at that speed you will jar the camera slightly when you press the shutter.

Once you get used to it it's quick and easy (a matter of pushing two buttons that are right beside each other and then the shutter).

Think of it as squeezing a trigger on a rifle on a long, long shot at a small target.

If you could have the round go off electronically at the right time or the trigger pulled manually......which would be more shake-free and precise?

 

[BG42EDGE]

Books on digital photography?

 

[CaseyChaos]

Try "Understanding Exposure".

 

[BG42EDGE]

That looks like a good book.

I see by the reviews that he gets into understanding ISO.

I'm suspecting that sometimes pictures that are not as sharp as we'd like them are due to our automatic cameras automatically giving us a high ISO setting when lighting is not real bright.

That's something I think I need to read up on a little bit more.

My camera has a manual setting, but I haven't messed with it much.

Another thing I've noticed about digital is that you can't manipulate depth of field like you could with 35 mm.

This has been a good discussion.

 

[sitflyer]

you Can manipulate depth of field if you understand it. To do so you need to use manual settings and your apeture setting becomes your priority for determining depth of field.
there is a stop down lever on the camera which you use to check your depth of field. It closes the apeture for you to see what the depth of field will be when the apeture closes down just before the shutter opens. A general rule of thumb is the bigger the F number, the greater the depth of field. ie the smaller the apeture, the greater area of focal plane.
also for a given focal lenghth lens...the closer the subject is, the shallower the depth of field will be.

 

[Stumps]

I take photography fairly seriously. I've amassed too much gear and still want more!

Canon 50D
Canon 17-55mm f2.8 IS
Canon 85mm f1.8
Canon 50mm f1.8
Canon 70-200mm f2.8 L IS
Canon 300mm F4 L IS
Tokina 11-16mm f2.8

Some shots of which I'm proud (click the photos and you can go see larger versions):

Dang....nice pictures!! I just got home after spending a lot of the last four months backpacking. Your pictures make me want to get back out there backpacking again.

I like being in the mountains and seeing all the scenery, but the animals I see in the wild are what really makes my day. You have captured lots of what I see everyday when I'm walking through those mountains.....thanks!!

I am hoping to add a few pictures to the Sunday picture show if I can get any good closeups of a few of my knives.

My only camera is a Pentax Optio. I'll have to dig out a tripod.

 

[Haebbie]

Pictures taken with the iPhone:

But the most picures I take with digital SLR Pentax K20

or my old Pentax istD

Sometimes I use the pocket camera Ricoh Caplio GX100

Best,
Haebbie

 

[300Bucks]

Photo educated guess, you guys that know for sure tell me if I am wrong. BUT, stopping down some lens for increased depth of field to a tiny apperture has its own set of problems. For one any glass aberations (fancy word huh) can be magnified. Lots of modern good quality cameras with auto functions (and auto lens), don't stop down really far. My Canon doesn't go to F32 like my old fTN, most stop in the 20s. I consider F8 as my low limit and usually try for f22. If I can get f22 at 1/30th on a solid stand, then I have enough lights on in my light box setup. If I have several items in photo, I raise the angle of the camera to take a more downward shot which changes your depth of field from less front to back to more top to bottom and will likely get everything in focus. Will be glad to explain more if wanted.

Again I preach, the cheapest best non tech thing to do if your photo allows is use a tripod or other type stand and get the shutter to trip without you touching the camera, using the timer or a remote shutter release....I even have one of those flexible leg tripod things that I can wrap around three sticks tied together. I have a two legged extendable rifle pod that has a camera thread on top I use when hunting out west.

You may not think you have a timer but look in the camera setup functions, good chances you will ..

Great iphone shots Habbie, you have a steady hand. Caseys shots are so sharp he must of used a tripod....see

Maybe I should mention I am taking pictures of Buck knives to justify to moderators this post being in the Buck forum.

300Bucks

Added a PS: BGs recommendation for folks seeking new camera are good.....AA batteries, out in the middle of nowhere you will be out of luck for odd batteries, but most quick stops and gas stations have AA. For non SLR cameras I agree 12X is plenty big for zooming.