Source for heat treated steel

If you mean the Sharpal, then it's the same one. I first saw it on Outdoors55 youtube channel.
 
David Mary said:
If you mean the Sharpal, then it's the same one. I first saw it on Outdoors55 youtube channel.
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I heard of the name, heard it's good, I'll Now have to dig in and read more ...Thanks.
 
Yup! Same one, typo! 14 hours through a 16 hr shift! I saw it on his channel as well and got one to replace my cheapy "goodjob" one from the big river site. HUGE difference!! I got the 8x3 one.

The old one did OK, but it took more pressure and just didn't have the bite anymore fairly quickly. It wasn't working nearly as well, but when it was upgraded to the Sharpal, it made a huge difference for me. I do a lot with Magnacut and other wear resistant steels, which doesn't help. With those steels, faster cutting is better, otherwise you start rounding the apex and lose that crispy edge if your attention wavers too much.
 
Tell me about it. I'm trying to sharpen my neck knife. On a dimaond rod. It's a hawkbill. It's 3V......

I'm taking it to the shop to sharpen on my grinder. 😭🤣
 
Try 2, 18" long x 2" wide blade Shechitas in S90V...LOL. Super thin, super flexible, super wear resistant steel.
 
And not let you have all the fun? ;)
 
Taz said:
Yup! Same one, typo! 14 hours through a 16 hr shift! I saw it on his channel as well and got one to replace my cheapy "goodjob" one from the big river site. HUGE difference!! I got the 8x3 one.

The old one did OK, but it took more pressure and just didn't have the bite anymore fairly quickly. It wasn't working nearly as well, but when it was upgraded to the Sharpal, it made a huge difference for me. I do a lot with Magnacut and other wear resistant steels, which doesn't help. With those steels, faster cutting is better, otherwise you start rounding the apex and lose that crispy edge if your attention wavers too much.
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How smooth does the edge look from your "stone" ? I have a med/higher end one and I was surprised how rough it ground
 
No, I had to sharpen them for a customer...thats what killed my "goodjob" diamond sharpener and I upgraded to the 8x3 Sharpal! LOL. Those REALLY sucked to sharpen! Next ones were in 1/16" Magnacut. Got 6 more to heat treat, rough grind to 120 in Magnacut, 62 HRC. Gotta make a tank to pour the liquid nitrogen into since they won't fit into my Dewar.

With the 1200 grit side on the Sharpal, I sharpen, deburr and then re sharpen with like no pressure. It makes it a good bit smoother, but still toothy. I use 14 micron and 3 micron diamond compounds on leather strops and they make the edge nice and smooth, but still has some tooth to it. With the Shechita, I then went to 1 micron diamond spray on balsa for the final polish. Normally I go to the 3 micron diamond on my knives and call it good. Its pretty polished at that point, but still an aggressive cutter!
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
This is a perfect example of why we ask people to fill out their profile information when they join Bladeforums. We have no idea where you live, so suggesting a source is futile. I'll guess USA since you listed McMaster-Carr as a possible source.

Many machine shops and well as HT people like JT and peters can harden bars of steel for you. Just buy what you want and have it sent to the HTer directly (after making the arrangements).

If your profile was filled out a local knifemaker may offer to HT some bars for you at no charge.

NOTE:
If you plan on making knives from hardened bars, you should get a mist system. The Kool-Mist clones on the big A are very low price.
A variable speed grinder is also a big plus for working hardened steel. Without these it is nearly impossible not to affect the hardness if the edge.
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Hello, Sorry, had not been on here a while, just seeing this.

yes, I am in US, Florida. I will see if I can tune up my profile. And, thank you for the suggestion about the mist system.

Thank you.
 
Crag the Brewer said:
Yes, like S Seedy Lot said I like using Startett blades. I've worked with a good variety of steels, and have vastly different opinion towards them.
I think the heat treatment Startett does to the HSS is unequalled. They do a great job.

I always recommend them for new makers, or any maker, really. I feel they make a great knife.
Just recently a hunter/trapper requested a small detail knife for cutting around skulls and into bone. Even though I use "higher end" steels such as CPM Cruwear, he insisted I make it with the same steel as his first knife that I made for him, he loved it so much.... Even though it wasn't designed for it, he used it to clean the bear his wife shot. He said he was carving away for over 5 hours and it still stayed sharp. Wow.
Here is that knife, and a few others made from Starrett power hacksaw blades.



This one above cleaned the bear meat. (second pic with the black handle)















This last one is my current edc, it's like a glorified steak knife.

The issue most makers don't use PHB material is that it is crazy hard steel, difficult to drill, and that it doesn't finish up well, leaving the knife kinda Ugly. And that it takes 2-3 times as long to make. Me personally, I find them wonderful, and will continue to make from that material along with the other steels I use.


*edit to add... if the OP lives in the States and wants a hardened blank. I could send ya one I have a bunch of blanks of "Real Steel" (NitroV/8670) treated by Bos that I could donate ya..... Just private message me here (I don't do email)
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wow, some beautiful blades, neat handle designs.

what is the thickest those hacksaw blades come? ETA: I see 3 and 3.5mm.

You all buy these new, or used?
 
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JohnSmithy said:
wow, some beautiful blades, neat handle designs.

what is the thickest those hacksaw blades come? ETA: I see 3 and 3.5mm.

You all buy these new, or used?
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Thanks for the comments ... I feel I specialize in comfortable handles. Handles are my thing. It's what I think about most, and the reason I actually started making knives. Because I don't like what was out in the market. My handles are Better. It's what we first touch.

My first picture with the bocote handle, and the wonky dagger shaped one with the OD green handle were Both made from .125" thick blade.

That's the thickest I've seen. These are slicer, cutting, and slashing knives....not Choppers.

And expensive. That blade was over 80 bucks.
I only have bought new blades.
But I would buy used Starrett red label if I found any....

You will Never make these with a filing jig.
I too use a 2x72 grinder with ceramic belts.

It takes All day to grind. About 3 times longer than "normal" blades....

Labor of Love......and I'm pretty sure everyone who has the ones above Love theirs

My little EDC pairing knife got taken from me....I missed it, so here is my current one. Not fully done yet ...Almost










 
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JohnSmithy said:
Hello, Sorry, had not been on here a while, just seeing this.

yes, I am in US, Florida. I will see if I can tune up my profile. And, thank you for the suggestion about the mist system.

Thank you.
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Where in Florida? I live near savannah Georgia and make it down to Florida a lot on our travels. I may be able to help you with HT depending on where you live and what kind of steel you want to use.
 
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