spalted maple

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Aug 17, 2009
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Ive got a nice big chunk of maple still in the bark. Im wanting to spalt some of it. Anyone have expirence with doing this? I know Mike from Woodlab spalts his own. Soon I will be cutting a huge sycamore from some of my porperty, I would like to spalt some of it as well.
Thanks

Sean
 
I've tried home spalted many ways for many years without CONSISTENT and PREDICTABLE satisfactory results. Some things are just better off in the hands of Mother Nature and I'm skeptical of any claims made by anyone stating they can do this routinely. I place such claims in the same class as home stabilizing using empty pickle jars and wood hardener. Good luck on the venture and here's a link to an actual patent for spalting. Since this material is not on the market I'll presume their results weren't predictable either.

http://www.faqs.org/patents/app/20080226847
 
I read once that a guy spalted a pile of maple by covering a pile of greensawn maple with a tarp and neglecting it for a few months. i think spalting is early stages of wood rot.
Rmfcasey
 
I saw a site somewhere in my interweb travels that described how selective spalting is done - what kinds of fungi to use, and how to apply it.
Not something I'd want to have around the house, though.
Some reading here...
 
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hello, i have heard numerous people stating that consitancy in spalting is extremely hard if not impossible. I have some maple and pecan that i am experimenting with. I dont expect anything to come of it but it may work ( atleast this time). What i did is i gathered up some logs and half logs of the pecan and maple. I placed them close together then i placed a few small pieces of already spalting maple in and around it ( by the way i cleared the ground under the wood first) as well as spalted maple shavings. Then i took some old grass out of a pile i have and mixed it with compost from my compost bin. I filled every nook and cranny real good. Then i covered the pile with about 3" of the old grass and rich comost mixture. I try to keep the area semi moist but mostly rely on mother nature, which has been very generous so far this year. Now i am just waiting. summers a comin and ill see what happenes. BTW the area gets filtered sunlight but you can still consider it very shady. --just experimenting and learning. Have fun--thanks marekz
 
Sounds good, Mark!! Spray your pile from time to time so the wood stays at or above 20% moisture. To dry and the fungi goes into dormancy..to wet and it won't have enough oxygen..cheers...good job...

Looks like the head injury slowed down your typing..easier to read :D
 
I've never done this myself, but have read about it.
One sugestion is to rough shape the wood to the desired shape first, then try and spalt it.
that way you don't lose the black lines it it stays on the survace only
 
Larry has given the best advice so far. Damp and shade but not too wet.

Your best chance is if the wood shows some start of spalting so far. Then all you have to do is maintain the conditions that will allow it to spread.

The black lines can happen within the wood, not just the surface. They are caused by a barrier between different colonies of bacterias.

The way I do it is:
If a piece shows some spalting when we are cutting I gather up some of the chainsaw sawdust that came from cutting that piece.
Next I take a pallet and put it in a shady area and cover it with the sawdust. I stack the wood with a layer of sawdust between each piece then cover with a tarp in a way that will let a little air get to the pile.
Forget about it for several months. Then take a test piece and cut it to see what is happening inside.
This works about 1/3 of the time.

Good luck.
 
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