Speak Up! Frame Locks Vs Liner Locks

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Frame lock any day. Easier to clean and easier on the pocket when the lock side is titanium.
 
Linerlock just from aesthetics!!!!!! Frame locks look half finished to me!!!!
Also I like the feel of linerlocks in hand. The symmetry of it.....
Bolster lock worx for me too!!! That symmetry thing!!!!!!😜
Out of 55+ blades I think I have 3 or 4 frame locks....Enuff said!!!!!
From my pie hole anyway!!!!!
 
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I like liner locks too where I like that hand pressure doesn't matter. Like you, I'm a Spyderco Military fan. (and GB[12], and Vallotton, etc., etc.).

Have plenty of frame-locks, though.

That being said, there are hybrids:

i-tF7tPn6-X3.jpg


Easier to maintain than any CRK, BTW :)
Wow that’s nice - what’s it called??

(BTW, I generally prefer frame locks to liner locks).
 
I like liner locks too where I like that hand pressure doesn't matter. Like you, I'm a Spyderco Military fan. (and GB[12], and Vallotton, etc., etc.).

Have plenty of frame-locks, though.

That being said, there are hybrids:

i-tF7tPn6-X3.jpg


Easier to maintain than any CRK, BTW :)
Why do you say the Hinderer is easier to maintain than a CRK? I'm not disagreeing with you but curious on your thoughts about it being as how they have a very similar construction.
 
Over the years I've had more issues w/liner locks than frame locks. Liner locks present themselves better, as mentioned, more complete, more finished appearing. If the liner is thick or hybrid (thin scale) I'm more inclined to appreciate it. Bolster locks are a nice compromise between the 2 IMO, benefits of full frame lock but aesthetics more inline with a liner lock, fuller scales on the lock side. For now I lean toward frame locks. I've found I can tune them easier, they're simpler in general and I never have to worry about a liner lock getting stuck between the blade and show side scale even w/late lock-ups. I've had failures w/both locks but the liner lock failures hurt me worse, it disturbs me seeing so much flex in a lock bar. I like a big fat piece of metal locking into my tangs, you actually increase the locking force while gripping a frame lock. I have a couple liner locks I'll carry on occasion but I'm more careful with them and am constantly checking the lock-up to reassure myself, seems it can change more w/the thin bar depending on how it's deployed. Bit once you know.....
 
I prefer a liner lock over frame lock. I have a big paw (2xl+ glove) and like my knife handles thick for comfort. A liner lock provides an additional piece of G10, micarta, etc. to make a thicker handle. My liner lock preference has nothing to do about which lock is better, it is mostly comfort with aesthetics coming in second. I admit, I like the look of G10, micarta, etc. on both sides.

Btw, I take a good, long look at the thickness of a liner lock before I buy. Give me a decent piece of thick steel please.
 
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I prefer liner-locks to framelocks, if only for the reason that they can be gripped more safely, I don't have to be extra-aware of where I'm putting pressure. I have seen BAD liner locks just up and fail via slipping because the liner was bendy, but any quality lock shouldn't give you that problem. Ontario, particularly the RAT series and Spyderco produce some of MY favorite and trusted liner-locks.

Only frame-lock I use is a Spyderco Cricket. That is the other thing - I totally get people seeing Ti framelocks as elegant due to the one-piece construction and some beautiful inlays, but to me, the inlays seem kind of "slapped on", even the nicer ones on Chris Reeve Knives, and that leads the other side looking "bare", like something fell off of it. Then, if it does not have an inlay, it looks a bit more "futuristic chrome" than I would like. Ti framelocks with M390 or 20CV seem to be the thing that everyone is into right now, heck, M-Tech (Not Microtech) is making their own M390 Ti framelock.

So yeah, they seem a little uninspired and generic to me, as well as inherently a little less safe than liner-locks (though I prefer compression locks and back-locks to both). The CRK brand produces the most beautiful framelocks in my opinion, though, particularly the "Mnandi" model, if I remember right (it's a small model).
 
I prefer liner-locks to framelocks, if only for the reason that they can be gripped more safely, I don't have to be extra-aware of where I'm putting pressure. I have seen BAD liner locks just up and fail via slipping because the liner was bendy, but any quality lock shouldn't give you that problem. Ontario, particularly the RAT series and Spyderco produce some of MY favorite and trusted liner-locks.

Only frame-lock I use is a Spyderco Cricket. That is the other thing - I totally get people seeing Ti framelocks as elegant due to the one-piece construction and some beautiful inlays, but to me, the inlays seem kind of "slapped on", even the nicer ones on Chris Reeve Knives, and that leads the other side looking "bare", like something fell off of it. Then, if it does not have an inlay, it looks a bit more "futuristic chrome" than I would like. Ti framelocks with M390 or 20CV seem to be the thing that everyone is into right now, heck, M-Tech (Not Microtech) is making their own M390 Ti framelock.

So yeah, they seem a little uninspired and generic to me, as well as inherently a little less safe than liner-locks (though I prefer compression locks and back-locks to both). The CRK brand produces the most beautiful framelocks in my opinion, though, particularly the "Mnandi" model, if I remember right (it's a small model).
A while back you asked me what differences in trends I'd noticed on BF and online in general from the mid 2000's till now. One that I don't think I mentioned is the liner lock vs frame lock debate. Lots of people back then were really down on liner locks. Like it was definitely "the thing to do do" to be against liner locks. That went along with the focus being on heavy, overbuilt folders though. It's interesting seeing liner locks becoming more and more popular and even maybe more popular if you go by this thread.
 
... heck, M-Tech (Not Microtech) is making their own M390 Ti framelock....

M-Tech doesn't seem to make anything of their own. They are largely a "rebranding distributor". Their bad reputation comes from decades of slapping their logo on cheaply made knives with blade steels like 420 and 3Cr13.

Recent forays into better knives with better steel all seem to be rebranded models from CH Knives. I have one of them in D2. I've seen a couple in S35VN. I haven't seen any in M390 yet.

Here is my MTech rebrand of a CH3001. It isn't great but it's nice for what it is, and that's a $50 titanium frame lock in D2.

WS4NDKF.jpg
 
Please be patient with me as I'm new here and really just beginning to learn about folding knives. My intention was to buy 2 knives and then attempt to escape the magnetic pull of getting bit by the collectors bug. I figured 1 small mini knife and 1 larger ( but not too large ) I can feel the pull, the more knives I look at the more I want. But practically speaking, I'm not much an outdoors-man and just wanted 2 good EDC's. My first choice I'm happy with, a mini-bugout, fits my needs, lightweight, disappears in the pocket, works well, the axis lock locks up tight. My second choice seems harder, but I decided on the iconic CRK sebenza. Then "after" I bought it I read about "rock lock" and noticed mine had it. Now some of you may be rolling your eyes by now but I didn't like that so I returned it. My question is this, did I just get unlucky with a bad one or do all frame locks do that? Is it a concern or am I being nit-picky? Trying to decide if I should stay away from frame locks altogether or if I should still consider other frame locks that don't have that up and down lock play. Thank You
 
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Please be patient with me as I'm new here and really just beginning to learn about folding knives. My intention was to buy 2 knives and then attempt to escape the magnetic pull of getting bit by the collectors bug. I figured 1 small mini knife and 1 larger ( but not too large ) I can feel the pull, the more knives I look at the more I want. But practically speaking, I'm not much an outdoors-man and just wanted 2 good EDC's. My first choice I'm happy with, a mini-bugout, fits my needs, lightweight, disappears in the pocket, works well, the axis lock locks up tight. My second choice seems harder, but I decided on the iconic CRK sebenza. Then "after" I bought it I read about "rock lock" and noticed mine had it. Now some of you may be rolling your eyes by now but I didn't like that so I returned it. My question is this, did I just get unlucky with a bad one or do all frame locks do that? Is it a concern or am I being nit-picky? Trying to decide if I should stay away from frame locks altogether or if I should still consider other frame locks that don't have that up and down lock play. Thank You

Welcome to Bladeforums NYP.

To answer your question- No, "rock lock" or "lock slip" or whatever one calls it is not a common trait, it is a sign that the the knife wasn't properly made. It sounds like you just got a bad one. Unfortunately I've heard of this happening more often with Sebenza's in recent years. But if you really like the design you should be able to find yourself a good one, either from CRK or second-hand, they are normally very high quality knives.

As far as frame locks in general, a good one is definitely worth having. What I like about the frame lock is the sturdiness and, the strong lock. Overall, a properly made frame lock is a very strong folder design.

I've used the framelock below for many years. It never had lock slip, either the day I bought it or now, and it's been opened and closed thousands of times. Still locks up tight. Unfortunately it's discontinued, so they're no longer available.

Good luck in your search. And don't be surprised if you end up buying more knives than you planned, or will ever need, it's a common occurrence here 😉 .


nW9RrpJ.jpg
 
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if geometry is right and made properly, both work well. both can be very strong locks.

archived article by Mr. Levine way back on Michael Walker liner lock and process to develop and his take on how to do it properly.........worth a read op.....


the perceived weakness or easy failure by many is due to that many aren't made correctly......ones that are done right fail locked open.

this applies about as much to frame locks too...but frame allows easier manipulation of the lock bar by the user on purpose or accidently when cutting. also another reason many have had bad experiences with them. poorly made or accidental and unrealized manipulation by themselves while cutting.
 
Like many others have already posted, I have both. It depends on the task but if I could only choose one from now til the end of time, it would be a frame lock like here in my Buck 110.
If I want convenience and speed it would be my Syderco Sage I or II. I can hold something needing cut in one had, pull the knife out, open, make the cut, close it and slip it back in my pocket. All with one hand.
 

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