Special HT considerations for SMALL blades?

[Omega Leather Works]

Hey guys, I want to make some wood carving knives for me and my friends. The blades will be anywhere from 3/4-1 1/2" with stick tangs roughly 1" long.

I'll be using 1084 and doing everything myself.

There is plenty of HT info, but is there anything I should consider when doing such small blades? The stock (when I find some) will be (or end up) thin and short in height.

Here's a pic of a couple of knives that have profiles similar to what I'll be doing.

Thanks!

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

You will be better to use W2, 1095, or 52100. Higher hardness with a very fine grain being a major gain.

The HT is the same, with attention not to overheat the blades. However, about 25°F above the target for a larger blade would be a good idea. The time between the oven/forge and the quench tank is critical...with the time being very short. A blade that small will loose its heat rapidly.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Thanks Stacy. I have some 1095, but I don't have the equipment to heat treat it. I suppose I could grind out the blanks and send them out for HT, but that was a big part of what I wanted to do.

Hmm...

 

[james terrio]

I don't trust a hidden tang that's only 1" long. In small carving knives, it's not a question of brute strength, but of wobble. All the steels we're talking about here are affordable; a full-length narrow tang will only cost a couple dollars more, and be more secure/solid even after decades of use.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

I don't trust a hidden tang that's only 1" long. In small carving knives, it's not a question of brute strength, but of wobble. All the steels we're talking about here are affordable; a full-length narrow tang will only cost a couple dollars more, and be more secure/solid even after decades of use.

With all due respect (and I mean that), all of the makers that I buy from, Drake knives, Deepwoods Ventures do it this way.

Actually, I take that back. Paul at Deepwoods uses 1095 rod that he notches for epoxy. As far as I understand it, nearly all of them do it in a similar fashion including the big companies like Flexcut. Mora, I believe, does a full length tang, but their blades are much larger, generally speaking.

On the only knife that I made I drilled into the handle, sandwiched the tang in a cut poplar dowel (that fit the drilled hole) and epoxied it in that way. Seemed very stable before I gave it away. I think I have pics somewhere of how exactly I did it, but I'm sure you understand what I mean.

All of that said, I want one of YOUR carving knives, if you ever make one!

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

A heavy enough tang will be strong enough in most cases.

I have some good grade carving knives in full width partial tang, half width partial tang, and full tang. I don't think I've ever bought one in hidden tang. The biggest drawback I can see is the insertion point at the front of the handle will not be neat or pretty, unless the blade is made with an integral bolster.

I have made one with a mortise tang.