You're right. Absolutely no good reason to own a locking folder.
Regards,
3G
Uh... re-reading my first post I think I was somewhat harsh

Mikel
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You're right. Absolutely no good reason to own a locking folder.
Regards,
3G
Then you will never know if the lock is truely reliable or not.
And if you don't care if the lock is reliable, then why not just use a slip-joint folder?
Yes he will, no lock is completely reliable.
I personally would not buy any locking folder from any manufacturer or maker who told me that the lock would work just fine so long as I never hit the spine of the blade on anything.I stand by my earlier statement that if a lock fails, it is more likely the fault of the user than the manufacturer. If you want to whack a knife into a desk, get a large fixed blade. I cut things every day and in 41 years of using knives, I still have all my fingers, and I've never had a lock fail. Use folders only for cutting. If you need to stab or chop, get out the fixed blade.
A blade with some sort of gut hook on the spine (ala the serrated blade on the Leatherman Charge) might requiere a lock...
Mikel
I personally would not buy any locking folder from any manufacturer or maker who told me that the lock would work just fine so long as I never hit the spine of the blade on anything.
That's not a locking folder, that's just a needlessly complicated slip-joint.
Heck, child-proof caps on medicine bottles aren't completely 'child-proof,' so why use 'em?
Regards,
3G
This probably rings true with many folks here.
OT, but the idea that this is abuse always drove me crazy. Why is it that revolver companies can make a cylinder that can withstand 20,000-40,000 psi and more without exploding in your hand, yet cannot be made so that it can be flipped closed without damaging the gun?
So Pvicenzi, would you buy a locking folder from a maker who told you "The lock works great IF you don't accidentally hit the spine of the blade on anything"?I agree, those things exist just to satify lawyers.
So Pvicenzi, would you buy a locking folder from a maker who told you "The lock works great IF you don't accidentally hit the spine of the blade on anything"?
I think that flipping the cylinder closed is not so much that you will damage the mechanics of the gun, Its just that doing so is what causes worn blueing around the cylinder stops . Something I always note if buying a used revolver.
Um, I've got some bad news for you on that one, Mikel_24. In my experience with Leatherman Charges, the 'lock' on the knife blades is next to useless. I'm not talking anywhere near a 'spine-whack' here, I'm saying those liner-locks will not be forgiving of even a slight bump on a sofa! Be very careful!
Regards,
3G
I stand by my earlier statement that if a lock fails, it is more likely the fault of the user than the manufacturer. If you want to whack a knife into a desk, get a large fixed blade. I cut things every day and in 41 years of using knives, I still have all my fingers, and I've never had a lock fail. Use folders only for cutting. If you need to stab or chop, get out the fixed blade.
But you didn't answer the question.I own and use many folders with no lock at all.
What manufacturer says that?But you didn't answer the question.
Would you buy a locking folder from a maker if that maker told you "The lock is fine but only IF you don't accidentally hit the spine on something"?
It's a hypothetical question for debate.What manufacturer says that?
Then why even have a locking folder?I say it is not a valid test. You don't use a knife in that manner, ie cutting with the back of the blade or using the back of the blade as a hammer.
How are you going to use a knife that way that you do not want the lock to fail. The lock shouldn't fail in the manner the knife was meant to be used, for example if you where widdling wood the blade should stay in the locked position.
You don't test a hacksaw blades strength by smacking the blade on the sidewalk do you.
Right, because those are the only possible scenarios where the back of the blade could come in contact with (read: smack) something.I say it is not a valid test. You don't use a knife in that manner, ie cutting with the back of the blade or using the back of the blade as a hammer.
Are you serious? We all want our locks to fail! Didn't you know that? We all flock to BladeForums to find the best possible EDC folder with a faulty lock, just so, God Forbid, if we make a mistake while using said 'grail EDC folder' we can come brag about how we're only able to pound out these posts with the 3 fingers we have left!How are you going to use a knife that way that you do not want the lock to fail.
First off, it's whittling, not "widdling," and a locking folder isn't required for it. Heck, locking folders aren't usually even preferred by folks here for the purpose of whittling. Can't you think of anything else that requires a locking folder that stays locked?The lock shouldn't fail in the manner the knife was meant to be used, for example if you where widdling wood the blade should stay in the locked position.
Not a very smart comparison on your part. I suppose you choose to use a hacksaw for hunting and your daily cutting needs, right? I guess you're used to using a hacksaw in confined/cramped areas as well? I imagine you then think that hacksaws are marketed towards Law Enforcement, the Military, and Emergency Rescue personnel as fail-proof tools, suitable also for back-up use as self defence implements? Get real!You don't test a hacksaw blades strength by smacking the blade on the sidewalk do you.