Splitting 6"+ wood with a 5" blade !!!

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Apr 13, 2007
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Many people often say that the size of wood you can split is governed by the size of blade you have !
This is not true and this is how I get round the problem without bothering with wedges etc.

This is our problem....
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So I just start to batton about half way into the wood( can you believe it split on the other side, when I want it to it never does !)...
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I then tapped my knife back out and did the same from the other side...
PICT4958.jpg

With the knife removed again it's just a case of prying the two halfs apart....
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With it now in a more managable size it is only a matter of minutes before you have your bundle of kindling !!!
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the edge on the DMCG?!
THICK.
thats how it is.
:D

those knives are tough, with my DFLE, I've pried apart some big stumps!
and the edge on my DFLE is nice and thin and sharp.
:D

get one of you can!
nice work pit...
I should try that with my yardkeeper!
:D
 
I don't recognize that knife - which one is it? I agree it is wicked tough and would be curious about the edge afterwards as well.
 
Dang Pitdog, those knives are TOUGH! I never ordered one....how is the edge?

Hey bro when I was first looking into getting a ScrapYard blade I had serious doubts about the edge holding of S7 steel, can you belive with all the use I have put my DM through I have yet needed to re-sharpen it !:eek: All I have done so far is touched it up with a steel !!!!:thumbup:
 
hey pit this is handy.

its funny, i just finished a post telling how to whittle a wedge and split wood with it....creepy...
 
Those are great pictures Pit.

I know you guys are probably not going to believe me, but batoning is not as hard on the actual "edge" as it would seem. In general, you are going with the grain, and it does not take much penetration until the profile of the blade starts taking the load.

Either way, it is great to show exactly how much work you can do with a workhorse like that :thumbup:
 
My God man - buy an AXE! ;)

I think that thing isn't even a knife - it is a sharpened file and thus should be called a Shiv!

You should hold a contest - 'What CAN'T I split?'

TF
 
Those are great pictures Pit.

I know you guys are probably not going to believe me, but batoning is not as hard on the actual "edge" as it would seem. In general, you are going with the grain, and it does not take much penetration until the profile of the blade starts taking the load.

!!
I totally agree!
I had an argument on that before... and I don't think the person really understood what I meant.
althoughy batoning is rough on a knife... it's not too rough on the edge UNLESS you hit a knot.
:D

sr77 actually holds a good edge and is REALLY easy to sharpen.
:D
my DFLE held a shaving sharp edge after three days of chopping.
:D
and we chopped quite a few trees.

sorry, I don't mean to hijack, I just love scrapyard knives.
 
Pit, I have the Becker Campanion and think they are probably comparable. BUT every time I see yours, I want one...
 
Pit, I have the Becker Campanion and think they are probably comparable. BUT every time I see yours, I want one...

That's weird because before I got my DM I was close to ordering a Becker Campanion !!! There must be a lot of people eagerly awaiting the return of those !!!;)
 
Those are great pictures Pit.

I know you guys are probably not going to believe me, but batoning is not as hard on the actual "edge" as it would seem. In general, you are going with the grain, and it does not take much penetration until the profile of the blade starts taking the load.

Excellent point, brian g!

Doc
 
I know you guys are probably not going to believe me, but batoning is not as hard on the actual "edge" as it would seem. In general, you are going with the grain, and it does not take much penetration until the profile of the blade starts taking the load.

This is what I found to be true
at least until I try batoning thru knots in the timber anyway :)
 
Chopping: There is a big impact on the knife edge when it hits the wood etc.
Batoning: the edge is already in contact with the wood and all the force goes into the wood. It is like shooting. It hurts more if you does not hold the rifle tight to your shoulder.

Splitting a 6" with a 5" or even 4" can be done in a different way, without prying.
Start splitting from the outside in. You already had a square piece of wood, so baton off the "corners" and repeat until you have a small piece in the middle.

Instead of parting 1 to 1/2 to 1/4 to 1/8 etc. you take out a 1/16, then another 1/16 from the outside in.
 
Great pics. Doing tests like this is what led me to carrying a smaller blade most of the time. Good stuff.
 
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