Splitting wedges and axes

Not to be rude but plastic wedges are for felling not splitting. This is the reason they are found next to the chainsaws.
No, the reason they're found next to chainsaws is what happens when a chainsaw blade hits a steel wedge. Badness.

You can use a plastic wedge for splitting with an axe or maul just fine.

A metal wedge will last longer but is intended for a maul or a sledge and must be cared for to prevent rust; plastic wedges are much more flexible and can be used with a variety of tools for a variety of purposes but require almost no care.
 
I like the idea of a plastic wedge for splitting, but how long will it last? I'm pretty sure thier primary purpose is to keep you saw from binding, not to be struck in the manner needed to split seasoned wood. I've used some cast wedges in the past, and they came apart pretty quickly. I'm intrigued by the idea of a lighter weight plastic or wood wedge.
 
I bought some plastic wedges from here:

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=15335&catID=

I got some 5.5" and 8" ones. The 8" ones work very well in splitting some very tough oak firewood. I used a GB SFA. The 5.5" ones were blunter so more difficult to get started in the crack made by the axe. Since I was splitting firewood I think a 10" would be even better. I was surprised how tough the plastic was.

So at your link there HT the 5.5" weighs 4oz. To me that would be light enough to include in a pack.:thumbup:
 
you can always tell who is a logger, by the use of felling wedges as door stops in their homes......:D
 
No, the reason they're found next to chainsaws is what happens when a chainsaw blade hits a steel wedge. Badness.

You can use a plastic wedge for splitting with an axe or maul just fine.

A metal wedge will last longer but is intended for a maul or a sledge and must be cared for to prevent rust; plastic wedges are much more flexible and can be used with a variety of tools for a variety of purposes but require almost no care.

Yes, it's plastic for a reason. Just like it's a "felling wedge" for a reason. Like I said I'm not trying to be rude, I'm just trying to point this out so an educated decision can be made by those who are thinking of doing this.

I would also like to add that an axe like the ones talked about here are not made to be used for hammering with the poll (plastic or forged steel).

Any tool can be used incorrectly in a pinch with no problems but why set yourself up for failure… Use the right tool for the job..!

Ski
 
I've been working on small axe designs that have removeable hammer polls. Usually I make fine edged cutting bits, with the max thickness .75" or less (often .5"), not thick enough for tapping in tent pegs during adverse conditions, so I figured a removeable mallet head would give the versatility the op is looking for. Since presenting the axes I've been asked to make the hammer poll by three customers. They also could have a removeable spike...
 
No, the reason they're found next to chainsaws is what happens when a chainsaw blade hits a steel wedge. Badness.

You can use a plastic wedge for splitting with an axe or maul just fine.

A metal wedge will last longer but is intended for a maul or a sledge and must be cared for to prevent rust; plastic wedges are much more flexible and can be used with a variety of tools for a variety of purposes but require almost no care.

You make a good point. I've used the plastic wedges for felling and bucking. I have never tried to use them for splitting. I worked for a tree service and we had a splitter for that. I may pick up a small plastic and give it a try. The weight of the things is next to nothing. Good thread.
 
Why is there any concern about using nylon wedges when the OP mentioned splitting wood up to 10” diameter. I've seen a hell of a lot of people here claiming they do that kind of thing with a knife. If those people are to be believed in as much as they do that reliably with proper cutting instruments rather than idiot railroad track knives without ill effect I'm pretty darn sure a solid lump of nylon designed to be hit isn't going to come to any harm.
 
I might have started a similar thread quite a while ago, and through it this site was brought to my attention https://www.forestry-suppliers.com/product_pages/View_Catalog_Page.asp?mi=6699#

I ordered two of the 5 pound metal wedges. These things are gonna last you a longgggg time...and are really worth the money imho. My firewood gathering companion aka my cousin bought two of the orange plastic (but not necessarily "cheap") splitting wedges from tractor supply got broke the first day. With the two I have been able to split some pretty big trees (like 24 inches, probably even bigger). Actually the only stuff I wasn't able to split with the two wedges was the mystery wood (which you will find a thread on if your curious). In case anyone is wondering, I still can't split it :(
 
Why is there any concern about using nylon wedges when the OP mentioned splitting wood up to 10” diameter. I've seen a hell of a lot of people here claiming they do that kind of thing with a knife. If those people are to be believed in as much as they do that reliably with proper cutting instruments rather than idiot railroad track knives without ill effect I'm pretty darn sure a solid lump of nylon designed to be hit isn't going to come to any harm.


That was sort of my point in bringing up the plastic/nylon wedges in the first place.

Rather than batoning with your knife why not bring a lightweight wedge and use it to split wood with a baton? If you had the 5" one at 4oz that would save you even over an axe and keep your knife edge from potential damage.
 
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