Spoke to Spyderco about Threadlocker

[Mo2]

I bought a Slysz Bowie on the secondary market. The knife looks good (though I'm still trying to authenticate it), but I wanted to remove the pocket clip. The thing is, the clip screw was pretty tight, and having had experience with stripping screws, I'm a lot more cautious these days. I didn't want to apply a lot of torque and strip the head of the screw.

Maybe there was loctite, I thought. Today I called Spyderco and spoke to someone in service about what to do. The guy said that Spyderco would not have loctited down the clip screw but that perhaps a previous owner did. I asked if I should use a soldering iron, and I was surprised at what the guy replied. He said that he didn't recommend that, since it takes a lot of heat to break red loctite. (Of course, neither of us knew that there was loctite of any variety in there, let alone red loctite, actually.) Instead, he recommended hammering the torx bit in there a bit to break the loctite seal. He said that that's what they do!

I'd never heard of this, but tonight, after work, I gave the screw three moderate taps with a hammer, and the screw broke free. There was something white on the ends of the thread, so I'm not sure what was used, but it must have been some kind of fixing agent. Anyway, thought you guys would like to use this tip gotten straight from the spider's mouth. (Maybe @NickShabazz will want to share this with his viewers.)

 

[wade7575]

One word of caution to everyone saying that a softer driver is better and that maybe so for removing the screws but over all I would never use a soft driver and I'll explain why.
I was into RC Cars for many years when I was younger and I was into the hobby when most of the Cars you got you had to assemble yourself and I tell you if you used the included L wrench's to assemble the kit you would wreck 1 or 2 flat heads and button heads I was talking to a gentleman who worked for Team Associated and was a bit older and wiser then I was and asked him what to do about this problem and he told me that he recommended that people use a wrench designed for RC Cars and he was right it did help some what,the reason it helped more for screw that were be screwed into tight plastic was because the RC wrench's were precision ground from drill blank material and were very hard.

What was explained to me about why harder RC Car wrench's were better was because if you used an L wrench over and over again what happened was as the wrench deformed that same deformation would transfer into the socket of the Button or flat head screw it would strip out faster,when it comes to button or flat heads I hate them when it boil's right down to it in the smaller sizes and when I was into the RC Cars if there was room to install a cap head in place of a button head the button head was gone.

What I got tired of was only getting 1 to 2 use's out of a screw and then having to throw it away because the plastic was so tight on some kits even after a screw had gone into it was still very hard on a button or flat head and even using the better wrench's you may have gotten 3 to 5 use's out of the flat and button heads.

All I know is I use Wiha drivers for Torx and have no problems taking my Spyderco knives apart with them and that's what I will keep using from now on and they are harder steel drivers as well.