Spring Steel

F

Frank Eaton

Joined
Sep 10, 2004
Messages
362
I have been collecting leaf springs for awhile, haven't used any yet. How do you know what type of steel you have, and how to heat treat. Or if it even worth using. Thanks.
 
It could be one of the 10xx series, like 1095, 1085 etc. Or it could be 5160, which is also a very good steel.
It would have to be annealed, and if you are forging that would pose no problem, but if you're not, and don't have a heat treat oven...........??

You can buy spring steel for very little $$ from places like Admiral steel, and the like, ready to use.

http://www.admiralsteel.com/products/blades.html

http://www.primosknives.com/articles/steelcls.htm

http://www.balisongxtreme.com/baliplanet2/BasicTerms/steelfaq.htm

http://www.worldknives.com/wkknifesteels.html

http://www.knifeart.com/steelfaqbyjo.html

http://www.ameritech.net/users/knives/steels.htm

The top link is a steel supplier, the others are for your information.
 
One way is to forge out a small section and heat till non-magnetic and quench in water, stick it in the vise and if it breaks like glass and has a silky grain apearance then it might be worth taking the time to work out a heat treat formula for that one spring.

In the end it's cheaper, faster, and eaiser to use new steel of a known quality, but it is fun to play around.
 
Army Ranger said:
I have been collecting leaf springs for awhile, haven't used any yet. How do you know what type of steel you have, and how to heat treat. Or if it even worth using. Thanks.
Click to expand...
If you are making a blade for yourself or a close friend or two, you can expirement with leaf springs, mower blades, old files etc.
However, blades made for resale, in my opinion, should start out as quality steel of a known alloy with closely controlled heat treating methods used.
When I made blades, I used flat ground tool steel and I could easily get six knife blanks from a 18"x4" piece.
Heat treating of course done by a specialist.
I would send 10 to 12 blades at a time, stay just under his minimum poundage and each blank cost about $1.25 at the time.
Respectfully, Zeke
 
Well I guess I can hold on to it until I get to start forgin, will give me something to destroy learning how.
 
That's a good idea, and if it turns out to be good steel with a forge you can heat treat it yourself. If it's good steel then it'll follow the standard carbon steel HT process, heat till non-magnetic, quench in oil, temper.
 
I know this really doesn't help in your case, but I looked through the yellow pages until I found a local place that makes auto springs. Because they make (and not just sell) them, the steel was already annealed.

I got 22' of 5160 (3/8" thick, 1.75" wide) for $40. That made it a little under $2 a foot. No delivery fee, picked it up the day I called.

IMO... considering the amount of time and energy invested in getting the spring to look like a blade, knowing it's good steel is worth that cost.

cheers
 
Most springs of any size are 5160.Listen to the guys above - BUY KNOWN STEEL.A forged bowie has about $1 to$2 in 5160 cost (new).It has $10 to $100 in hammer time labor and often as much in finishing time.Add to that $10 to $50 for handle and hardware..... you see where I am going - there is no sense in saving one dollar in the blade material.As for practice,do it on the material you will be using.Do you think Rembrant started out painting ugly women before he moved up to good looking gals?
 
When starting out, way too many guys get confused with all the junkyard steels out there. They want to make knives, but see a miriad of costs holding them back. Stick to the basics and get some steel you know the properties of, and begin making your blades from that. When your skills advance, so will your knowledge of various recycled steels. I know about a thousand NT guys are choking on this right now, and would argue this point until death. Bottom line: Steel bar stock is much easier to fashion knives from for beginners. :)
 
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