Spyderco Bushcraft style blade(s)

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Apr 3, 1999
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I'm surprised that the Spyderco Bushcraft knife (or knives) isn't being discussed here.

http://spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21846

I won't try to go into detail since there is so much information on Spyderco's home forum, but the thought of a Spyderco with 52100 steel is pretty exciting.:eek: I would favor the flat ground profile in the stainless or the 52100. If the 52100 ends up as hard as many of the custom makers finish it, it seems like it would be a pain to sharpen with a "Scandinavian" grind.

I know it will be a year or six;) , but I'm looing forward to see what develops.
 
That would be really cool.

Bark River is coming out with a Bushcraft blade that is similar but not exactly like the Woodlore and UK Bushcraft blades.

If Spyderco could come out with something really closely resembling the Mears type blade at a reasonable price I bet they would sell a LOT of them as I am really surprised how much the UK versions sell for for what they are. I mean I really like the design but the price seems really high.
 
I've been following the Spyderco Forums thread as well, and I am really excited about the high tech version they are suggesting. Sounds like the perfect blade to fill my Fixed EDC spot with.
 
Paul Davidson said:
If the 52100 ends up as hard as many of the custom makers finish it, it seems like it would be a pain to sharpen with a "Scandinavian" grind.

52100 is fairly easy to grind even when hard there are little alloy carbides. D2 for example is much harder to grind than 52100 even when the D2 is signifciantly softer. That grind is horribly inefficient though from a sharpening point of view and has issues with binding on thicker cuts and control in shallow ones. It is essentially a really low sabre grind and a very inexpensive grind to apply. It is the same grind found on machetes and the cheapest kitchen knives. Put a full flat grind on the knife and then apply which ever edge angle you want. Try adjusting the edge angle on that type of low single bevel to a local wood type, they all have different optimal angles. It is far easier for example to thin the edge on a Temperance than it is a Mora 2000. In the sheath corrosion isn't the death of non-stainless knives either, and assuming you actually use your knives, they dull much faster due to what they cut rather than corrosion in the sheath assuming you are not in a really humid enviroment.

-Cliff
 
Another day, another thread, the fight against "horribly inefficient" grinds rages on.
 
hollowdweller said:
That would be really cool.

Bark River is coming out with a Bushcraft blade that is similar but not exactly like the Woodlore and UK Bushcraft blades.

If Spyderco could come out with something really closely resembling the Mears type blade at a reasonable price I bet they would sell a LOT of them as I am really surprised how much the UK versions sell for for what they are. I mean I really like the design but the price seems really high.

The British models are a bit overpriced. Wilkinson Sword made the only production version, and now that it's gone Spyderco could help fill that niche. I think the sheath or sheaths that Spyderco design for a blade like this will influence its popularity, or lack of same.
 
Paul Davidson said:
I think the sheath or sheaths that Spyderco design for a blade like this will influence its popularity, or lack of same.
Sal is taking a lot of advice from the folks on Bushcraftuk about this as we tend to be a picky bunch. Tiffers has been coming up with a few bushcraft sheaths which may inspire Sal
 
My plan is for two versions of the bushblade.

One will be pretty traditional materials. So far, 52100 blade (58Rc, grind is still a question), wood handle, and we're hoping that Red, Tiffers, & their "team" will design the sheath for us. Most likely leather.

The second will be the same pattern, but with S90V, full flat, carbon fiber scales and Boltaron sheath.

We're also discussing "fire sticks" & "sharpeners". methods of carrying fire sticks and what type of portable sharpener.

The group at BushcraftUK are a great group to work with, knowledgable and properly anal ;)

sal
 
Sal Glesser said:
One will be pretty traditional materials. So far, 52100 blade (58Rc, grind is still a question), wood handle, and we're hoping that Red, Tiffers, & their "team" will design the sheath for us. Most likely leather.

sal
Any thoughts on making a FRN folder with a carbon steel blade?
 
We've had some thoughts, but no decisions.

Let's see how the 52100 goes. If we were to do a carbon steel blade in a folder, 52100 would be my first choice.

sal
 
If the second version is a full flat (NASA knife) does this mean that the traditional one would be a scandi?

edit:missed the bit about the grind been in question
 
I like 52100, but when you start to go that soft I would look more towards 12C27mod which will naturally peak at 58/59 HRC. S90V is a nice steel for slicing abrasive materials but you don't actually slice woods as much as push cut and you want the ability to take a very fine edge and have a high hardness to keep it crisp. I would suggest AEB-L / 13C26. You might want to consider the traditional pair of leuko (12C27mod) / puukko (13C26).

-Cliff
 
Sal Glesser said:
We've had some thoughts, but no decisions.

Let's see how the 52100 goes. If we were to do a carbon steel blade in a folder, 52100 would be my first choice.

sal
That would be nice. I think it would be a crossover hit with the more traditional knife enthusiast. 52100 at 58 Rc would make a great all around work knife.
 
Sal Glesser said:
We've had some thoughts, but no decisions.

Let's see how the 52100 goes. If we were to do a carbon steel blade in a folder, 52100 would be my first choice.

sal

Hey Sal,

Any thought to playing with any of the non-stainless CPM steels in a folder? Like 3V or M4?
 
Hi Carlos,

The Bushcraft people like "easy to sharpen" on their non-stainless knives.

sal
 
Sal Glesser said:
The Bushcraft people like "easy to sharpen" on their non-stainless knives.

Suggest they change to a more optimal geometry which eliminates the effect of grindability. CPM-10V sharpens very easily if the edge is 0.005" thick. I can resharpen my Wilson 10V blade at 62.5 HRC far faster than a Mora 2000 if they are both similar blunted because the Mora's edge is 25 times wider. Adjust edge thickness as necessary according to wood type and user strength/experience.

On small knives, 0.025" is extremely difficult to ripple/fracture, even 0.020" takes hard pounding through stiff knots. I can batoned seasoned spruce with edges as thin as 0.010" taking care to cut knots with proper technique. If you forget about batoning (or don't cut knots) you can grind down to nothing and sharpen back with a primary at about three degrees per side.

-Cliff
 
Cliff Stamp said:
Suggest they change to a more optimal geometry which eliminates the effect of grindability.-Cliff
or listen to what they want and why they want it and have a knife that is popular and not just with cliff:rolleyes:
 
Using carbons steel it's great idea ,but I would like to see 52100 steel hardened to 59-60 hrc :)

Is there any chance that Spyderco will use M2 steel in their folding knives ?
 
Hi Cliff,

The leaning right now is for a "Scandi" grind on the simple carbon steel "traditional" model.

If I'm going to get to "pick their brains", then I should service their preference. The "Modern" version, (I'm hoping)" will serve the outdoors EDC market for a larger group. The plans for the Modern version call for a full flat "super steel". My leaning right now is S90V.

sal
 
Sal Glesser said:
Hi Cliff,

The leaning right now is for a "Scandi" grind on the simple carbon steel "traditional" model.

If I'm going to get to "pick their brains", then I should service their preference. The "Modern" version, (I'm hoping)" will serve the outdoors EDC market for a larger group. The plans for the Modern version call for a full flat "super steel". My leaning right now is S90V.

sal

And we all have more choices this way! Both sound great.
 
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