Spyderco Catcherman

Cliff Stamp

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A nice thin and narrow blade, acute and thin edge, very sharp NIB, decently ergonomic and secure handle with a corrosion resistant stainless steel.

The Catcherman works very well as a fillet knife, though the serrations will be a point of contention to some.

As two side issues, it works very well in the kitchen on a lot of work, and in general as a light use utility knife offering a very high level of cutting ability and exteme ease of point penetration.

While probably not thought much of for general utility, the blade profile certainly offers a very high level of cutting ability, surpassing even an Opinel.

There is a downside of course to the profile which is that the blade is very flexible and thus has low lateral strength, it will flex significantly even if it is just bound in thick cardboard and bent to the side for example.

It also tends to print badly as a weapon around here, mainly due to the size and serrations.

However with these limitations in hand, I have been using it as an EDC utility blade for some time and it certainly has its high points.

http://www.physics.mun.ca/~sstamp/knives/catcherman.html

-Cliff
 
Cliff,

I've been using a Catcherman for more than ten years. I wish I had known you were looking to evaluate one; I'd have loaned you mine.

I agree with everything you say, except that I haven't noticed it printing badly. Perhaps it has to do with the way I'm built (very skinny) and the kinds of clothes I wear (generally rather loose).

It's a lot of edge for very little weight.

--Mike
 
Cliff Stamp said:
There is a downside of course to the profile which is that the blade is very flexible and thus has low lateral strength, it will flex significantly even if it is just bound in thick cardboard and bent to the side for example.
Umm.. I don't claim to be any sort of knife expert, or filleting expert for that matter, but isn't a filleting knife supposed to be flexible?
 
gajinoz said:
Umm.. I don't claim to be any sort of knife expert, or filleting expert for that matter, but isn't a filleting knife supposed to be flexible?

I was wondering the same thing...
 
I have had one in my tackle box for some time, gets alot of use on single outing fishing trips. Great for cutting up bait, zipping through line and the serrations are handy for cutting rope. As a fillet knife, its great for quickly taking the sides off a small fish if the width is no longer than the plain edged part, but has too much flex when taking on something larger.
Being a folder has drawbacks as a fishing knife, it requires much more work to clean up after use, as against a fixed blade. This becomes more of an issue when you are on an extended stay trip and dont have all the neccesary cleaning utensils. Blood, guts and scales gums up the locking mechanism pretty quickly.
I think its a good concept, well made and extremely sharp and easy to keep sharp, however it is not all that practical for the serious fisho - a cheap bait knife is normaly suffice and a lot easier to maintain with a quality filleting knife back at home or at your camp.
 
While probably not thought much of for general utility, the blade profile certainly offers a very high level of cutting ability, surpassing even an Opinel.

That is a very high level of relative performance.

While I can see some benefits to this knife, it would in exactly the role you describe, a light use utility knife or picnic knife.

While I am sure it would make a fine fillet knife, I greatly prefer a fixed blade for such use as they are much easier to keep clean. Fish guts in the folder get stinky fast. Though the FRN frame and stainless blade would make clean up pretty simple, lots of hot water and soap.

Most of my fillet knives are carbon steel, Rappalla, Normark and the like and have lasted for decades of use, some were my father's. This is fresh water gear though, saltwater would be a different story. Fishing gear is an area where stainless steels are generally prefered and with good reason.
 
knifetester said:
I greatly prefer a fixed blade for such use as they are much easier to keep clean.
Yeah, I would take fixed blades in general for this reason. It is also why a lot of people like Wilson run smooth grips. His fillet blades have a full guard, highly swelled grips with a flared butt which keep your hand stable, but still are easy to clean. Around here when you are working on a large amount of fish you just keep a five gallon bucket of salt water handy, the knives just go in that and are sloshed around vigerously. A lot of people use folders, Opinels are fairly common, not the fillet versions either.

Evolute said:
...I haven't noticed it printing badly.
We might be talking about different things, I mean when you take it out for utility work how to people react to it. Around here the point serrations, black handle, very long blade, tend to cause adverse reactions.

gajinoz said:
...isn't a filleting knife supposed to be flexible?
In the above when I said downside, it was referring to the general utility use. For some materials you want a stiffer blades to allow more force to be applied to the knife during the cutting.

Stockman said:
I have had one in my tackle box for some time
This is one of the advantages, the edge is easily protected. Now you can argue just put it in a sheath, but that is one more thing to get lost and the knife just banged around. For a lot of people closing it up is going to be much more likely to protect the edge.

...has too much flex when taking on something larger.
Yeah, there is a pretty big split on this issue in general. Most of the fisherman I know have perfectly rigid blades, they have no distal taper and don't flex at all. Phil Wilson's are more rigid that the Catcherman, but still flex a lot more than what is used locally. What is your ideal blade profile?

-Cliff
 
The Catcherman has proven to be a surprisingly useful kitchen knife for me. I am sure that it would make a great fishing knife for a small tackle box or just carried in a pocket. It should also be great for picnics and as a camp cook knife, or as a boning knife for hunters.


It is true that being a folder makes it harder to clean thoroughly, but the MBS26 steel will hold an edge better than most stainless fillet or boning knives. More time cleaning vs. less frequent sharpening.


KT,

If you would like to check out a Catcherman, please email me (use the address in my profile) and I’ll send you one.




- Frank
 
CLiff, this is one I had made to my requirements recently, 3/32 thick blade - 7 inches long. Has some flex, just enough to bend around the backbone of the larger fish, yet stiff enough to cut through tough skin and keeping a straight cut between the dorsal spikes and backbone. A slight upsweep to the tip helps in the skining, reduces puncturing it.
fillet.jpg
 
Stockman,
Nice looking knife.

Frank,
Thanks for the offer, but my plate is pretty full right now.
Fillet knives do make great kitchen knives, ~1/16 thick flat grind, thin edges and enough length to make really good slicers for roasts, birds and bread. Thin and sharp enough to use for sushi even.

The old Gerber Tool Steel fillet knives with the chrom coated blades are my usual for kitchen work. The steel is very hard, yet the blade is flexible from being long and thin. Sharpening is typical for M2 at high hardness, hard to set an initial edge lots of wear resistance, followed by superior edge holding and keeping it sharp is a cinch, just a few strokes on a fine ceramic rod now and then. Wicked sharp to the point that I am especially carful using them.

Even a cheap old Normark (~$3 at flea markets and such) just floats meats and vegetables.

Opinel has some fillet folders, but they are not my stule, I prefer a drop point for utility work.

As far as sheathing goes, Eric from On/Scene Tactical will make a slip cover for kitchen knives and fillet blades that are exceptional.

To be honest, I use cardboard and duct tape.
 
Cliff Stamp said:
does it have a distal taper or is a full 3/32".

-Cliff
Tapered the whole length down to to maybe 3/64" ( can't give you exacts as I don't have a caliper handy. All the flex is in the last 3' of the blade, giving more control when things get a little bit awkward.
 
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