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Spyderco Chokwe Lock issues

ALLHSS said:
Does anybody know what spyderco's position would be on carbidizing or adding a steel insert?
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Simply put, if the knife is disassembled the warranty is void. And I don't believe there's any way to carbidize or install an insert without disassembling. And it's been modified. I think there's a blurb in the warranty about that too.
 
Barman1 said:
Simply put, if the knife is disassembled the warranty is void. And I don't believe there's any way to carbidize or install an insert without disassembling. And it's been modified. I think there's a blurb in the warranty about that too.
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I actually meant them doing it for you if it wears beyond specs.
 
I just took my Chokwe apart as I was planning to make a custom scale for it, but I noticed the lock has similar wear to the op's. Now I'm not sure if I want to go through the trouble if the lock is going to get sticky like many others. My friend just sent his to spyderco because it got so sticky it was difficult to disengage. Its too bad because it has quickly become one of my favorites, but I've only had it for a few weeks so I can't imagine what the lock will look like after a few months or years! Maybe I will try to find someone local who could carbidize it for me?
 
ALLHSS said:
I actually meant them doing it for you if it wears beyond specs.
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Impossible. The knife has been discontinued it seems (announced last year at some retailers). Spyderco does not make any one offs, no custom shop, or mod service available. As far as carbidizing the lock face, I wouldn't do it. It will mess with the existing tolerances (creates slop) and more often than not it, just won't work.
 
I had a galling issue on one of my chokwes before too. It just happens with Ti on steel. Graphite will work, but sometimes it takes multiple applications. Its important to take care of it as soon as you notice sticking because each time the lockbar sticks and you force it out you're exacerbating the issue.

Use sharpie, graphite, or some sort of dry lube. Liquid lubricant will not help. In fact, if you overlube the pivot and don't wipe the lock interface totally dry that's often what will start the galling in the first place.

As I understand it, a galling lockface is being deformed on the microscopic level each time it is unstuck. I believe the graphite acts as a lubricant to prevent further galling and repeated actuation of the lock will smooth the surface back out. If the galling is somewhat bad it takes more applications of the graphite because it takes longer to smooth out the surface. I'm no expert on this though so someone please correct me if I'm mistaken.
 
That sounds right spketch, based on what manufacturers and knifemakers have written about the topic.
 
If the lock-bar goes to 100%, you can peen it to bring the lock-up back to where you want.
Just learn a bit about how before doing it.
I did it to an original Spyderco Titanium Military; locks up like a bank vault door welded shut now (okay, slight exaggeration), and has been working out awesomely for my brother for well over a year now. Lock-up holding steady at about 50%. :thumbup:

There's a correct tool for everything...and that tool is a hammer. :D
 
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