Spyderco Endura 4 ZDP-189 Model # C10PGRE

[simioh]

This is what I'm talking about, thanks for the information man! so a little blade play with this style of locking mechanism is normal with the spydercos?

I have read other people stating that, but I haven't found it to be true, at least on my knives. The only one that has bladeplay is my Pacific Salt, and it's riveted so I can't adjust it.

 

[Buck knives I like]

I don't find pinned construction lame, but the Endura 4 uses scew construction. Just remember when you take it apart for no reason that if you put it back together wrong you will damage it, and that damage will not be covered by warranty.

If I remember correctly even if there is blade play on this one shouldn't there be a tiny screw and all you got to do is tighten the screw to fix the blade play? Making blade play not a problem. I'm not 100% sure if it is as easy as just turning a screw to fix the blade play, if anyone knows if it takes more then that please let me know.

 

[dcmartin]

Buck Knives I Like, The ZDP-189 from Spyderco is some good stuff. It takes way more use to dull it out over the VG-10... The trick is not to let it get dull in the first place. Frequent light touch ups on the Sharpmaker (or the sharpener of your choice) are required to keep it laser sharp, about 60 seconds once per week should do it. A 40 deg edge with the back bevel at 30 deg makes it very simple to keep it sharp.

The Endura is a nice, slim EDC... takes up very little room on the pocket, feels good in the hand. About the back lock, umm yeah.... I have seen some Enduras with up / down blade play but i find it's the tension / torsion bar that becomes weak. In all fairness, I've never seen this on a new out of the box Endura, only on users.

*Grip your Endura, put your thumb over where the back lock meets the blade (by the jimping) put pressure there and see if it changes that up / down play. If it does, it's the spring.... If it doesn't, the problem is the lock*

No complaints here, i have a few ZDP Spydies and am looking fwd to adding a ZDP Endura to the regular Endura collection.

 

[Buck knives I like]

I am a user and have been for a few years. Since it came out the first day it came available in fact. It's an Endura but has ZDP instead of VG10. I described the traits I felt were important for you to know before buying. If you expect it to sharpen like VG10, be as stainless as 440C, as tough as 3V, you might be disappointed.

Anything in particular you need?

No man sorry I didn't see this post until now, you and the rest have pretty much answered most of my questions, the only thing on my mind atm is to do with the blade play of the knife, a tad disheartening. I appreciate your information and that you continuing to help me out. Thanks again.

 

[Tripton]

If I remember correctly even if there is blade play on this one shouldn't there be a tiny screw and all you got to do is tighten the screw to fix the blade play? Making blade play not a problem. I'm not 100% sure if it is as easy as just turning a screw to fix the blade play, if anyone knows if it takes more then that please let me know.

Pretty much every back lock I own has some vertical play. The amount varies from knife to knife.

 

[Buck knives I like]

*Grip your Endura, put your thumb over where the back lock meets the blade (by the jimping) put pressure there and see if it changes that up / down play. If it does, it's the spring.... If it doesn't, the problem is the lock*

No complaints here, i have a few ZDP Spydies and am looking fwd to adding a ZDP Endura to the regular Endura collection.

Thanks for the information man, I'll keep that in mind. Good way to tell what's going on with the knife.

 

[Buck knives I like]

Pretty much every back lock I own has some vertical play. The amount varies from knife to knife.

So can someone tell me what acceptable blade play is verses unacceptable blade play? Where the line is drawn.

 

[Tripton]

Well, if the lock fails under normal hand pressure, that would be unacceptable.

 

[Buck knives I like]

Well, if the lock fails under normal hand pressure, that would be unacceptable.

:foot: That sir definitely would be, unacceptable. haha

 

[Buck knives I like]

Pretty much every back lock I own has some vertical play. The amount varies from knife to knife.

Just received my SS cara cara 2 from byrd, absolutely zero blade play. made in china.

 

[The Mastiff]

Just received my SS cara cara 2 from byrd, absolutely zero blade play. made in china.

Good choice and a tough little knife. It's also a great steel to learn to sharpen on because it sharpens easily and takes a nice edge. Don't worry about trying to mirror polish it as it does good with a little extra bite to the edge.

I don't know why people talk about all spydercos and other lockbacks having blade play. I've carried Enduras since 92 and mine have none ( I'm probably on my fourth, but all of them are still carryable and safe)

The "play" is a tiny ( in the thousands of an inch) place for debris to catch in there so small amounts don't keep the blade from locking safely. You have to push down the correct direction and do it pretty hard for a tiny amount of designed in play. It's in no way sloppy, no side to side or anything like what you are probably now imagining. Spyderco would have been out of business 30 years ago if these things you hear were all true.

Anyway if you get a spyderco and it is honestly messed up, send it back in for replacement rather than attempting a fix yourself. I have about a hundred twenty spydercos now and have yet to send one back in. ON the other hand I've seen posters get totally incensed over flaws that take a magnifyer to see, and are inside the knife where it takes some looking to see and in no way affects operation.

Everybody is different in their expectations and demands from the products they buy. Personally my philosophy is to not worry about flaws, just get them fixed if needed. No drama needed.

Enjoy your knife.

Joe

 

[blame it on god]

Has anyone bought this knife, do you like it? Does it use a torx screw to tighten/loosen the blade to fix blade play or a lame rivet type thing? Are they going to be making more in ZDP? thanks.

Knife center has a pretty good pic of it, And it says it is all screw together.

Is 95 bucks a good deal for it? from a retail store new of course.

KC has it for about $103, so yeah.

I'm both an enthusiast and a user I guess The Endura zdp is one of my most used knives for every day carry. I just sharpened it last night on my Lansky diamond kit. While I can get it very sharp, I can't get rid of the toothy edge, which still works great.

Even the fine diamond lansky stone is still less than 1000 grit. I have a dragonfly 2 in ZDP-189 and it takes a mirror polish very well. Consider getting the sapphire stone.

Pretty much every back lock I own has some vertical play. The amount varies from knife to knife.

I just checked my native5, two dragonfly 2's and a dragonfly. None of them had ANY blade play.

So can someone tell me what acceptable blade play is verses unacceptable blade play? Where the line is drawn.

Keep it clean, Most locks when dirty will exhibit some blade play.

 

[Alann45]

Is 95 bucks a good deal for it? from a retail store new of course.

That's a decent price.

Can't add much to all the good info you've already gotten. I have both an Endura and Delica, ZDP189, British Racing Green. Great knives, both were perfect on arrival. The BRG is very subtle green and I think gives it a bit different and classy look. Would not hesitate to recommend either or buy them again.

 

[simioh]

Even the fine diamond lansky stone is still less than 1000 grit. I have a dragonfly 2 in ZDP-189 and it takes a mirror polish very well. Consider getting the sapphire stone.

I have the ceramic stone (yellow) and I finish with the leather strop after that. I've seen the sapphire stone, but I didn't know if it was finer than the ceramic.