Spyderco FFG Endura Blade Strength

That's kind of like making fun of a sports car for being bad at offroading.

Your Delica is designed to slice well and with little effort. Don't do anything too rough with it, get another knife or tool for that. But it will stand up to more than most people would expect.
 
el gigantor said:
I have a saber-ground Endura 4 combo edge and it's friggin BOMB PROOF! That said, my wife has the standard flat-ground E4 in plain edge and she's never had a problem with it. Keep in mind though, we only use our knives as cutting tools.
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Thanks for the info. I picked up a combo edge and it is indeed solid. I like how the blade is heavy. It flicks open and drops shut easier than the FFG model and I think that is because of the blade weight. I also like that the plain edge portion is large. Sort of the best of both worlds... now I need a full serrated Endura. What a great knife.
 
Accidentally banged the edge of my Endura (when I had one years ago) against the corner of a metal filing cabinet. Not a scratch, dent or chip... aside from the paint scraped off the cabinet. 🤣
 
People generally will say whatever to support their own ideas or purchasing decisions. I say keep using your ffg endura and you are the one with a superior cutting tool. Enjoy it. They ain't delicate, I use my endela pretty hard and never worry about breaking it. It takes a level of maturity to simply know that you know, and they're ignorant of what makes a good cutting tool, and let it go. I would never let them use my knife though.
 
The only thing I have more of a hard time imagining than guys who know anything about knives making fun of an Endura, would be me giving a damn about the opinion of guys who make fun of an Endura.
 
I don’t understand what these guys are using a knife for which makes them think thicker is better
 
Some individuals use their knife as an everything tool. It happens.

So don't bitch at another person's opinion or question.
 
After using the saber ground Endura for a few days, I prefer to carry the FFG. It's way better at food prep. The saber is probably tougher, but for peeling apples or other kitchen stuff, the FFG is way better.
 
J. Doyle said:
All this talk of folder strength gets pretty ridiculous. Especially considering 99% of the population has never broken one, even during heavy abuse.

Knives, especially folders, are for cutting and slicing. That's it. Thinner cuts better. Period.

Start taking away from or compromising the ONE thing they were meant to do well and they aren't very good for anything.

Get some new friends.
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THIS ☝
THANK YOU.

For example :
Many / most of the great knives I own I have reground myself to ~1/2 the stock factory blade thickness (some less than half such as the 3V Cold Steels that are 5mm).
e.g. :
I have two Gail Bradley 2s. One stock to look at and one reground to 1.8mm at the spine for actual cutting things with. Funny . . . people bang on and on about how special and superior the "thin" hollow grind area is but after taking the spine to ~ 2mm and the thickness behind the edge to ~ .012 inch all that show and very little go hollow grind disappeared.
hmmmmm . . .

Another example I just reground was a Spyderco Siren LC200N (one of my top five all time favorite folders, even factory stock ! Fantasticly great knife ! THANK YOU LANCE ! THANK YOU !) I have the S90V version as well but not going to attempt to thin that one out; hey, I'm smarter than I look 😶.

I have one LC200N Siren stock thickness and one ground to the previously mentioned 1.8mm / 12 thou behind the edge (or is this one 10 thou?).
Hot damb !
Now we're talking !
And this LC200N is so tough !
Not gonna break it.
Not gonna happen .

Here's an example, and you can search my old thread on modding #12 Opinel knives , I wanted to make one shorter so I took an angle grinder and cut a slot all the way across the blade about half way through the blade thickness, clamped the base of the blade in a vise near the pivot and using a pair of giant arc joint pliers I ATTEMPTED to simply snap the excess blade length off like I have done many times with other hardened tools such as an Allen wrench for example.
. . . .
The blade just bent way over and then sprung back to straight ! ! !
I had to bend it several times to a ninety degree angle before it FINALLY broke off and this blade is long but quite thin to begin with.
ANY QUESTIONS 🤓

PS : If I were advising a newb who was just getting into this hobby but want to experience the finer points and take it to a high level of enjoyment I would say buy a basic, basic hand held belt sander that runs fairly slow ( heck a bargan / basic little Black and Decker will geeterdone) and a bowl of water for cooling and LEARN to grind.

PPS: The only blade I have "Broken" was a LARGE MAC brand kitchen knife that I still love that came from the factory at ~ 1.5 mm at the spine (that is why I bought it ) and bought another back up after "breaking" the first one. GREAT KNIVES ! I cast no dispersion on MAC Brand.

What actually happened was I was attempting to cut open a hard squash ( a very hard squash) and ended up batonning the knife with I forget what.
The blade only cracked a centimeter or so up from the edge.

I used the knife daily for years after that and only retired it at the request of my partner who is a pro chef but not mechanically inclined. It made her nervous.
I had been measuring the crack out of scientific curiosity; the crack had not traveled after years. I use a saw on squash like that now though.

have a pick and a prybar and a froe for fun and games and use your knife for cutting stuff.
 
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