Spyderco pm2 ouchie

marcus52AR

marcus52AR

Joined
Apr 22, 2014
Messages
4,736
Maybe just a me problem..

So.. it's been a few years since I've had a PM2, and when I checked out the DLT M390 version I was sold.

I knew red wasn't me, so the day after ordering my PM2 I ordered a set of carbon fiber scales. The red scales actually won me over within the first couple of days, but I was still looking forward to the swap (still excited).

I've heard complaints about locktite on spidies before, so upon arrival I checked every screw on the knife to ensure I'd be able to take off one scale at a time to install my new sweet contoured CF scales.

The screws on the PM2 all cracked loose and snugged up nicely when I first got it. After a few days of breaking it in, I wanted to check everything was still tight after being used a bit. I also checked the tightness to free a screw knowing I had scales on the way.

The pivot screw on one side was fine..
The other side was/is seized super tight:mad:

I'm a plumber by trade, so I'm on the tools daily. I know how to take stuff apart and re-assemble. I've worked with difficult screws and bolts before. This one was seized. I tried super hot water to loosen things up as well, to no avail.

Even though the hardware was brand new, and I had quality bits, the torx screw turned round.

I now have a (hopefully) nice set of scales inbound in the next couple of days, with a knife with a round fastener.

Two issues I need to resolve are..

Remove rounded screw

Replacement screws?

I guess I need a dremmel now? Or maybe an extraction bit?
Pretty weak. Brand new knife hardware, and fairly new good condition quality drivers and the metal just flaked away.

I'd love to see some higher quality hex style screws from spyderco.
I'm a big fan of spyderco, and they make up the majority of my knife collection.. but this is a big turn off.Resized_20171127_220906.jpeg Resized_20171127_220605.jpeg Resized_20171127_220644.jpeg
Edit to add..

I've taken apart my CRK and RHK multiple times and it went like clockwork. I'm not planning on taking my PM2 down monthly or every six months (like some do). I only wanted to put the scales that I purchased on it, and be done with tinkering. I'm not asking for same tier quality.. but quality enough so I can use the fasteners.
 
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On many knives only one side of the pivot spins (male). The other side has a flat side so it doesn't spin (female).
 
I'm pretty sure I spun both sides out. I understand what you're saying, but when you try to turn a screw the proper direction to loosen and it doesn't budge.. Cap’n Smudge Cap’n Smudge
 
Another good tip for small hardware is to brace whatever from underneath on a solid surface. Apply a ton of force down into the screw head before attempting to turn.

Can't beat some focused heat for blue loc-tite.
 
It appears they are now using white loctite instead of red as that's what I found on my military. My problem is I got one back spacer screw out but don't have the right tools to get the other out since it's free spinning. Ugh I hate that.

Regardless I assumed they didn't have any loctite and I was wrong. Using heat gun, hair dryer, soldering iron or boil in water should be used as well as L shaped torx for one side to avoid the spinning. I'm just glad I didn't strip the screw.
 
This is a cut and past of Spyderco's info on how to deal with loctite.

1) Ensure that you have the proper size Torx® driver for your screws and that the driver head is in good condition. A single-piece, screwdriver-style driver works best.
2) Place your knife on a workbench or other hard surface. Use a paper towel or rag to protect the handle from scratches.
3) Insert the tip of the Torx driver into the screw head and ensure that it fits properly.
4) Tap the handle of the driver several times with a hammer to “shock” the screw and break the Loctite bond.
5) Maintain a firm, constant, downward pressure on the Torx driver as you rotate it to remove the screw.
6) If this method is not successful on the first try, repeat as necessary or return your knife to Spyderco with $5.00 for return shipping. We will loosen your knife’s screws upon request.

I've never seen "white" loctite uses to secure bolts. I would suspect they're back to the blue they stated in the release in April of this year. I have seen locking compounds turn a white colour though when they get shocked and the screw removed.

Red loctite's release temp is beyond a hair dryer or boiling water and I suspect the blue will be too. Probably high enough that you'd melt the G10 with heat if you're not very careful.
 
The Cara Cara (made in China) uses white thread locker that’s probably as strong as red used in US made Spyderco.

@ OP,
You can send it in to Spyderco Customer Service requesting them to loosen all screws so that you can do the scale swap.
 
+1 on the sodering iron to loosen loc-tite ... I would try a screw extractor first if you have one ... but another method I have used and had good luck with ... find a nut as close to the same size as the screw head ... use JB Weld to cement the nut to the screw and use a socket to remove the screw ... it has saved me from damaging the scale or surface of whatever you're removing the stripped screw from.
 
Mo2 said:
It appears they are now using white loctite instead of red as that's what I found on my military. My problem is I got one back spacer screw out but don't have the right tools to get the other out since it's free spinning. Ugh I hate that.

Regardless I assumed they didn't have any loctite and I was wrong. Using heat gun, hair dryer, soldering iron or boil in water should be used as well as L shaped torx for one side to avoid the spinning. I'm just glad I didn't strip the screw.
Click to expand...
If your have a vise, pad the jaws with leather and crank down on the standoff then turn out the other screw.
The leather will apply force to more surface area while.padding from deformation.
 
What does the other side look like? Male or female? Cant you just disassemble the knife and push it out?
 
marcus52AR said:
Maybe just a me problem..

So.. it's been a few years since I've had a PM2, and when I checked out the DLT M390 version I was sold.

I knew red wasn't me, so the day after ordering my PM2 I ordered a set of carbon fiber scales. The red scales actually won me over within the first couple of days, but I was still looking forward to the swap (still excited).

I've heard complaints about locktite on spidies before, so upon arrival I checked every screw on the knife to ensure I'd be able to take off one scale at a time to install my new sweet contoured CF scales.

The screws on the PM2 all cracked loose and snugged up nicely when I first got it. After a few days of breaking it in, I wanted to check everything was still tight after being used a bit. I also checked the tightness to free a screw knowing I had scales on the way.

The pivot screw on one side was fine..
The other side was/is seized super tight:mad:

I'm a plumber by trade, so I'm on the tools daily. I know how to take stuff apart and re-assemble. I've worked with difficult screws and bolts before. This one was seized. I tried super hot water to loosen things up as well, to no avail.

Even though the hardware was brand new, and I had quality bits, the torx screw turned round.

I now have a (hopefully) nice set of scales inbound in the next couple of days, with a knife with a round fastener.

Two issues I need to resolve are..

Remove rounded screw

Replacement screws?

I guess I need a dremmel now? Or maybe an extraction bit?
Pretty weak. Brand new knife hardware, and fairly new good condition quality drivers and the metal just flaked away.

I'd love to see some higher quality hex style screws from spyderco.
I'm a big fan of spyderco, and they make up the majority of my knife collection.. but this is a big turn off.View attachment 804982 View attachment 804983 View attachment 804984
Edit to add..

I've taken apart my CRK and RHK multiple times and it went like clockwork. I'm not planning on taking my PM2 down monthly or every six months (like some do). I only wanted to put the scales that I purchased on it, and be done with tinkering. I'm not asking for same tier quality.. but quality enough so I can use the fasteners.
Click to expand...

I hate to see these companies that use m390 steel in their blades using poorly heat treated low quality steel screws.

What gives?
 
115Italian said:
What does the other side look like? Male or female? Cant you just disassemble the knife and push it out?
Click to expand...

I don’t have PM2, but if it’s like Manix 2, both sides are screws (male) with a center pivot (female). Gayle Bradley 1 is the same. It’s different from an Endura where the pivot is female and male screw attached from the other side.
 
I think I'm just going to send it in. Even of I figure out a way to get the screw out, I'm going to need to source a new one.

Does anyone know if spyderco installs aftermarket scales? Also does better quality hardware exist for the PM2?
 
I’m sure Spyderco doesn’t install aftermarket scale. There’s plenty out there, and from few samples I have (not PM2), they are different and some are better. It depends on the maker.
 
Chris "Anagarika" said:
I’m sure Spyderco doesn’t install aftermarket scale. There’s plenty out there, and from few samples I have (not PM2), they are different and some are better. It depends on the maker.
Click to expand...
Ya, the cf scales I purchased are from Russia, and another member has them on his pm2 and is happy with them.

Just thought it would save a step for me, but I'm sure once the screw is replaced it should be clear sailing.
 
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