Spyderco s110v question

[cchu518]

I usually don't do this but certain steels, I feel like the carbides are there for a good reason, like good old 440c. For me variety is the spice of life, so if it's 440c or S110v, I can pretty much get it to a medium finish and leave it at that, I use them as work knives. If I'm sharpening Elmax or S35v almost anything else I spend a little more time to refine the edges. But to each their own right.

 

[Skidoosh]

S110V is a fine steel but it is not for me. I found chipping to be a problem and I am not really sure why. I did find it polished fine and sharpened well but was not as tough as what I was hoping.

 

[cchu518]

Finally had some time to resharpen the Milli.

I was trying to use very basic equipment as everyone said it was possible to sharpen s110v using a sharp maker. It reacted very well to a back bevel, the wire edge that formed was rather pesky and took 15 minutes to remove. I usually never spend that much time on a touch up.

Going to see how long it stays usable sharp.

 

[bodog]

A11 tool steels like S110V or 10v should be sharpened maximum with 600 grit according to Phil Wilson, who was one of the inventors of this steel composites. So, it will not shave hairs easily, because these steels perform best in micro saw mode on cutting tasks performances.

Dude, there's a lot wrong with your post. S110V is not an A11 tool steel. A11 is tool steel. Some other steels have very similar chemical compositions with different manufacturing techniques. 10V, K390, Vanadis 10, and K294 are considered to be in the same class of tool steels as A11. S110V is nowhere close to it.

I don't think Phil Wilson had anything to do with creating A11, 10V, or S110V.

People advocate for not going higher not because they're made to have microsaws, which doesn't make sense as none of these steels were made for knives, but because once you get to a certain grit level you're basically push cutting and the carbides in the steel don't do anything at that point except possibly weaken the steel if heat treated normally or incorrectly and you might as well be using a different steel more suited to that task, like high hardness AEBL for example. If a steel was MEANT TO have microchipping leading to the microsaws as you say then whoever made that steel wanted it to be weak and chippy and most manufacturers try to avoid weak, chippy steel.

Don't mean to argue but your post was really full of a lot of inaccuracies and other people don't need to be guided down such a wrong path.

Some people advocate for not going higher because it's a waste of steel. Some people advocate for not going higher because it's a waste of time. Some people advocate for not going higher because they only normally draw cut and the aggressive steels sharpened aggressively serve their purposes better.

 

[Sonnydaze]

S110V takes a superb mirror, quite durable at 13 dps, cardboards and light duty is great but if you are going to whittle/carve wood or heavier use, I would put a 17 micro with 1000 grid. She seems to hold the edge and keeps on going.




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Well, that really looks nice. I don't take my edge to that fine grit. 3000 is more than good for my work.

 

[DaNuke95]

I don't have any problems getting my S110V Manix stupid sharp with my EPA. I usually go up 1000, strop and call it a day. Shaves hair and slices through phone book paper with ease.

I found out rather quickly that the Sharpmaker doesn't quite cut the mustard with S110V. Just my experience.


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