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Discussion in 'Spyderco' started by FrannaM, May 15, 2020.
I don't like it with the yellow but it would look excellent with a dyed green handle!
They had issues on the SpydieChef with galvanic corrosion, which is which the CQI version has DLC coated hardware. I wonder if that may have been a less known issue on the other Salts or if they are just trying to get ahead of it and CQI them across the board with the new models.
The LC200N Pacific 2 is supposed to be to market in the next year or so, it will be flat ground and will be a major improvement over the horrible edge retention of PE H1. Corrosion resistance will be very good as well, but at a slight trade off (I was able to rust LC in salt water from the Gulf of Mexico).
I did notice some rust on the lockbar pivot the last time I had my wharncliffe Salt apart, so that makes sense.
The lockbar and blade pivot pins looks like Ti to me on the latest model.
Did you try to hit it with a magnet?
No, never even thought about it. Will disassemble and check when I get back to work.
I saw this:
Corrosion Resistance: 5; best in the industry
I dropped the knife in the ocean (on purpose). I fell into a stream while on a hike with the knife in my pocket (on accident). I did lots and lots of food prep from cherries to pork chops. It never once rusted, tarnished, or even stained. There is, of course, a note on Blade Forums about someone’s Mule 25 rusting, but I am not sure how much weight to put on that single problematic blade given the huge number of people out there with no similar complaints. Its telling that no other owners reported the same and that Sal himself asked to see and test the knife. My bet is that there is something up with that single knife and not with the steel as a whole. My experience has been convincingly clear to me—no steel is better at resisting water, fruit and food acidity, and staining than LC200N.
One weird note—the steel tends to collect fingerprints in a weird way. Instead of the normal well defined smudges, fingerprints produce a bit of a haze. Its hard to explain it, other than to say that this steel does not behave like most steels in this regard. It also tends to hold the filmy haze through water. To get the blade gleaming I had to use rubbing alcohol (which is better for the blade anyway).
Mine spotted after ocean water exposure, it cane off easily. I agree on the fingerprints thing, it’s very odd.
It's possible they're DLC coated like the LC200N models. That coating has an interesting texture compared to TiN.
How the hell did you do this?
I heated the clip with a torch until the color turned bronze (think that’s the first color ti turns when heated) I then immediately dipped it in ferric chloride for a second and then in water.
Forgot to mention I sanded and polished the clip before the whole process. That was a hell of a job.
I say keep your money in the USA and go Native Salt.
Both knives are made by the same company so, your money goes to them regardless of which knife you buy.
I didn't realize that titanium would react with ferric chloride. I tried something similar with the clip on my Salt, and nothing happened.
Did you heat it up properly with a torch? I also sanded the clip until it was shiny. Under the black coating the Ti has a type of dull brown coating you also need to remove. That took a lot of work. I finished it off with green polishing compound and a dremel.
I thought the salt clips was stainless steel, had to test with a magnet and you are right.
Cool little funfact, though I don't understand the need of coating on Ti.
Ah, I didn't go through all that. I just removed the black coating, cleaned it with alcohol, and dropped it in some acid. I was mainly just curious what would happen. When it didn't do anything, I just torched it a bit and left it like that.
Yes the important part is to quench the Ti in acid. That's what forms the cool patterns.
Older Salt clips are actually painted; I took the coating off a black one once and just had a bare titanium clip, looked pretty good actually.