Spyderco Salt 2....serrated or non serrated?

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Jun 1, 2009
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So I want to get a salt version for an upcoming trip where I’ll be in the water a lot. Biggest question is serrations or not. I understand that when new the H1 edge doesn’t last long but eventually hardens. I’ll be in back country and honestly I’m not the best sharpener in the world. Please give me your opinion, advice, and why you feel the way you do. Thanks.
 
I’ve been way more satisfied with my SE Pacific than I anticipated. It is a fantastic knife. I debated with myself over which model and which blade ad nauseum. For once I totally made the right choice!
 
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SE.
I was not able to resharpen PE.
Hope LC200N works better.

What sharpening system did you use?

Back to the original question, definitely get the SE. I've got a Pac Salt and a DF2 both in PE and although I really like them for fishing, lake, pool knives I wish I'd have gone with SE on both. Oh well, I've got some online gift cards burning a hole in my pocket and debating on picking up a Salt 2 in SE.
 
Cscotttsss Cscotttsss

Stone, diamond, Sharpmaker

Whenever i used fine or ultrafine rods it got worse.
No clean paper cutting.

After fine rods it slid off the paper.

Also a trained sharpener had issues with it...
 
Cscotttsss Cscotttsss

Stone, diamond, Sharpmaker

Whenever i used fine or ultrafine rods it got worse.
No clean paper cutting.

After fine rods it slid off the paper.

Also a trained sharpener had issues with it...

Interesting. I bought a used PE Pac Salt online that according to the previous owner had never been sharpened. I was able to put a hair shaving edge on it using the KME.
 
Hi Ric,

I'm surprised. I'd like to see how you're using the Sharpmaker. I find the H1 plain edge gets wicked sharp. Just doesn't stay sharp as long as other steels we use.

sal
 
My PE Pac Salt is the sharpest knife I have. It came that way from Spyderco, and I never let it get dull. I'm not an expert sharpener at all, so when I use it a little, I just do a quick touch up on the Sharpmaker, and it stays that way, very easily. I like both edges in H1, but serrated cuts forever, and is probably the way to go.
 
Sal, I used to use only the sharpmaker corners for H1 PE. I saw brighter dots on the edge. Like some small dents. After sharping the edge slid off the edge of a piece of paper.
I also felt a burr after using diamond, after ceramic or leather strop again sliding like on ice.
It was a Dfly.

I lend my knife and it was used to open 1 bag of concrete powder. It was very dull afterwards. Never got it sufficient sharp again.

Now I change the blade to VG10 with Salt handle. The H1 blade was gifted to a friend.
 
I would definitely choose the SE Salt 2, if I wanted to get one. Unless you're planning on doing much whittling with it, the serrated is superior to PE in H1. I especially like SE when the scallops are NOT too deep and narrow (i.e., overly-thin and narrow teeth).

IME, resharpening (including H1) on the Sharpmaker (SM) is generally easy. H1 is one of the easier steels. On the SM, do not use heavy pressure. I'm not saying that's what anyone is doing, but too much pressure is counterproductive. I also take my time. I mostly use the corners of the rods for serrations and the flats for PE. Also, remember to clean the rods periodically. I tend to wash them with Comet or Ajax with a Scotch-Brite sponge.

Jim
 
Are you familiar with the "sharpie trick"? Color both sides of 5he edge with a sharpie. Use the sharpmaker as normal. Check to see if you're apexing both sides.

Factory edges can be a little wonky. (Sorry Sal)
 
With all my Para 3s s30v, Maxamet,... I have no issues. (Did not need to sharpen S110V, S90V yet.)
When they do not slice paper they get a touchup on the Sharpmaker.

I assumed that my H1 was too soft.

Hope LC200N in PE works better.
There is no model in this steel that I want at the moment, so I cannot try it out.
 
Something else is going on, because H1 sharpens more quickly and easily than s30v.
 
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