Spyderco Sharpmaker ceramic rod grits

C

Chang1

Joined
Sep 30, 2006
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I was wondering if anyone knows what grits the brown/gray and white ceramic rods are that come with the Spyderco Sharpmaker?

Thanks in advance.
 
One stone that they need to add to the Sharpmaker kit to really make it ideal for travel and outdoor>> that is to make an very aggressive coarse stone for serious reprofiling in the field.

OK, OK!! I've heard everyone's speil about the 204 Diamond stones and I do have 2 pairs of those and love them. But even those 204 Diamond stones don't really remove stock like you need to in serious reprofiling.

Heck they could even make them out of something fairly inexpensive like Aluminum Oxide. That way it would ream your wallet like the diamond stones do :eek:

I'm hoping this wheel will keep squeaking loud enough to draw attention ;)
 
The sharpmaker rods all have approximately the same size abrasive particles, there is no real grit rating for them. The ultrafine rods are fine rods that have been surface ground. you can do the same at home and make the UFs even finer.
 
Thanks for the information JD.

I'm not really looking to make a setup that's all that portable. I actually already have a Sharpmaker, have had it for close to 3 years I want to say. I am looking into getting some DMT stones that, as you said, remove more stock. I already have the diamond rods from Spyderco and, as I said in another thread, I was not all that impressed. I was curious what mesh DMT stones I should get to compliment my SM setup and jigglyfly gave me the answer I needed.

Thanks again guys.
 
The ceramic is fused into a semi-continuous surface with pores and voids. Asking about grit size is like asking about the grit size of 000 steel wool or of a smooth mill bastard file.
 
Thank you knifenut.

Thanks to you guys I now understand ceramics better than I did when I first posted my question. Again, I was just looking to find DMT stones that would best compliment the ceramic rods and, I believe with the information that you provided, I have found my answer.

I have decided to go with the DMT coarse and fine 6" diamond whetstones. I already have an extra coarse stone, so I believe that these will fill in the gap that I have.

Thank you again.
 
Thank you for the suggestion me2, but I believe I talked to you in another thread about what I am trying to do. I figure with the whetstones propped up against the ceramic rods of the Sharpmaker to help with the angle, I can keep a consistent angle and it can help down the road with my freehanding abilities.
 
If you can do it, more power to you. I haven't tried the bench stones against the sharpmaker rods before. It seems like the wide stones would move around and be really frustrating. I've also thought that the larger stones would make the triangle move around a lot, so when you removed them and went to the triangles, there would be a small but frustratingly visible change in angles. For what its worth, you can rebevel on the corners of the brown triangles, it just takes a long time.
 
I'm hoping that the DMT stones are light enough that they won't put enough weight on the rods to change the angles that they sit at.

I'll be using the stones on the 30 degree inclusive setting. I usually only use my white rods on the 40 degree inclusive setting for regular maintenance. So as long as I can rest the diamond stones at an angle that is thinner than 40 degrees inclusive and keep it consistently there, I'll be happy.
 
Chang1 said:
I'm hoping that the DMT stones are light enough that they won't put enough weight on the rods to change the angles that they sit at.
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If you mean the DMT Diasharp stones, they're actually pretty heavy. They're a chunk of metal with diamonds sprinkled on the surface. They're not going to snap your ceramic stones or anything, though; the ceramics are actually a lot stronger than you would think:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=707122

If you mean the Whetstone line, then the base is plastic, and they're a lot lighter.

I would put paper or something between the ceramic and DMT stone, though, to avoid the ceramic wearing the back of the DMT stone.
 
Good to hear that they ceramics are so strong THG. I actually am getting the DMT whetstones with the plastic base and "polka dot" grid on top. Would you still recommend putting something in between the plastic base of the whetstone and ceramic rods?

I don't know if me2 was making reference to the weight and pressure on the rods actually manipulating the holes in which you place the rods in, thus affecting the angles that they sit at, but that's what I thought he meant. Please, correct me if I'm wrong.
 
Chang1 said:
Good to hear that they ceramics are so strong THG. I actually am getting the DMT whetstones with the plastic base and "polka dot" grid on top. Would you still recommend putting something in between the plastic base of the whetstone and ceramic rods?
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You still might like to put some tissue or something between so that you don't wear the plastic base over time. I did the Whetstone/Sharpmaker method a number of times and didn't notice anything happening to the base, but over time it might have.

Chang1 said:
I don't know if me2 was making reference to the weight and pressure on the rods actually manipulating the holes in which you place the rods in, thus affecting the angles that they sit at, but that's what I thought he meant. Please, correct me if I'm wrong.
Click to expand...

I don't think sheer weight would damage the slots. Significant insertion and removal of the rods from the slots might cause some wear after a long time, though.
 
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