Spyderco Sharpmaker

So I got my sharpmaker today and it seems to work well, me on the other hand . . .
My question is when i try to shave hair from right to left <== it will not shave. Now from left to right ==> the hair pops off.
Which side am I messing up, left stone or right?
 
So I got my sharpmaker today and it seems to work well, me on the other hand . . .
My question is when i try to shave hair from right to left <== it will not shave. Now from left to right ==> the hair pops off.
Which side am I messing up, left stone or right?

Assuming I'm understanding what you're describing:

The burr on the edge is leaning towards the side that's shaving, i.e. it's angled into your arm. When the burr is angled up and away from your arm, it won't shave well (if at all). You need to make a few passes on the side to which the burr is leaning, in order to remove it, or at least flip it the other way, which will then make it 'shave' on the other side. That will definitely confirm the burr is causing the trouble.


David
 
So I got my sharpmaker today and it seems to work well, me on the other hand . . .
My question is when i try to shave hair from right to left <== it will not shave. Now from left to right ==> the hair pops off.
Which side am I messing up, left stone or right?

I think David has it right. which means that the left side of the blade still has a burr on it ....if i did my thinking correctly. try to correct the burr with the stones then use a strop to knock off the rest of the burr. I can't say enough how helpful even an old belt is. You need something that will knock off the burr and/or roll the edge back into alignment. I've been using the back of an old leather belt but you can find purpose built strops and fancy diamond pastes for them.
 
The sharpmaker is an incredibly easy system to use and will give you some absolutely amazing results provided you have a few things in order. First of all, you MUST mark the edge with a sharpie so you can see where you are actually contacting the stone. The sharpmaker requires you to have an edge with an inclusive angle of less that 40° in order to be effective. If you are sharpening on the 40° setting and are still just removing sharpie from the "shoulders" of the edge, then you'll have to reprofile the edge in order for the sharp maker to work as intended. If you are in fact removing sharpie from the very apex of the edge, then you can continue on with the setting you are currently using. In this case, I recommend staying with the medium stones, working one side at a time, until you have formed a small burr along the entire length of the edge, then do the other side. You can then switch to alternating passes with EXTREMELY light pressure until you cut off the burr. Counting strokes will do you absolutely no good. At this point the edge should easily shave hair and cleanly slice phone book paper. Then move on to the fine stones and repeat the process. Personally I prefer to only use the flat sides of the stones, as the corners, due to their smaller surface area, put too much pressure on the edge and can cause it to easily roll. The sharpmaker is a great tool for blade maintenance, but there is a learning curve, so practice practice practice and eventually you'll get it. You just need to fully understand what you're doing, and how exactly the sharpmaker helps you to do it. It's the same concept as freehand sharpening, the sharpmaker simply helps you keep a consistent angle.
 
I did read about marking the blade with a sharpie. It was removing the ink evenly from the point to the heel. So if you just keep alternating with the flats on the med stones it will eventual work the burr off? It sounds like that is it. Then you just do gentle strokes with the whites to finish the edge?
 
I did read about marking the blade with a sharpie. It was removing the ink evenly from the point to the heel. So if you just keep alternating with the flats on the med stones it will eventual work the burr off? It sounds like that is it. Then you just do gentle strokes with the whites to finish the edge?

Pretty much. Just make sure you are fully apexing the edge and forming a burr on the brown stones on both sides before you move on. This will ensure you've got a nice apex to work with. Cutting the burr off will only take about 5-10 very light alternating strokes. You can even tilt the blade very slightly away from the stones on your deburring strokes, but if you do this you really need a absolute feather touch. All of your real sharpening will be done with the brown stones, the fine white stones will then continue to polish and refine the edge. Take is slow, pay attention to your angle and examine the edge often. Once you get the hang of it you'll be amazed how sharp you can get a knife on the sharpmaker. I can regularly get hair whittling edges with nothing more than the medium brown stones, it just takes practice. Oh, and if you haven't done this already, watch the dvd included with the sharpmaker, then watch it again...
 
I cleaned my sharpmaker rods with mr clean magic eraser, those things can literally clean anything, dunno whats in them but they worked wonders on my rods when i had a sharpmaker.
 
Hey thanks for the advice. I had the idea but to hear someone with experience say it really helped. I think I was putting way to much pressure. I eased up and the edge just popped into being. I have touched up a couple of more now and it is getting quite a bit easier. I can't get it as sharp as the guy on the DVD yet but it is coming.
 
I use the Sharpmaker a lot at work to sharpen my co-worker's knives as well as my own. Here's what has been working for me:

I have the diamond rods & use them first on really dull knives or for reprofiling but they rough the edge up too much for me to be able to see much of the edge under the light. I have to give it a few alternating strokes on the browns to see if I'm ready to move on from my diamonds. I wouldn't try to sharpen my co-worker's abused edges without the diamond rods. It would take too long.

First, stand under an overhead light source & look down at the edge straight on (without blocking the light). If you see any shiny spots you're not done with the brown rods. Slowly move the blade to & fro & side to side as you look to make sure you don't miss any shiny spots. Do this at different points during the sharpening to check your progress. It helps to train your eyes a bit. Don't move to the fine rods until the edge reflects no light.

The rounded shiny flat spots are easiest to see but don't rush to the fine rods the moment they disappear. Look carefully at the entire edge straight on under overhead light while slowly moving the blade. Sometimes there will be a really thin, uniform section of the edge barely reflecting light. They're easy to miss if you get in a hurry & that section of the edge still won't shave after the fine passes.

If the blade looks really dull I'll go 10 or 20 strokes in a row per side at first because it's easier than alternating after each stroke. Then I give it at least 10 alternating strokes before & examine my progress to cut down any burr I might've just built up.

Once you get the edge to where it no longer reflects light, give it maybe 10 to 15 passes using slow alternating strokes with light pressure before moving off of the brown rods. The last few passes should be done with a feathery light pressure. If it shaves well at this point the fine rods will have very little left to do.
 
Thanks for all the great and consistent advice! I've definitely been using way too much pressure. My knives seem to be getting much sharper when I slow down and use only light pressure.

Just a guess, but it sounds like to me that you may be putting some force on the blade as you make your passes on the rods. There should be almost NO added force on the blade. Just enough to feel the rod against the blade. The idea after the burr is to gently scrape it off, not grind it off with force.

I suspect pressure may still be a little heavy, as Omar has suggested (I think this is the #1 problem encountered by most people, including me, when getting acquainted with the system).

Hey thanks for the advice. I had the idea but to hear someone with experience say it really helped. I think I was putting way to much pressure. I eased up and the edge just popped into being. I have touched up a couple of more now and it is getting quite a bit easier. I can't get it as sharp as the guy on the DVD yet but it is coming.

Once you get the edge to where it no longer reflects light, give it maybe 10 to 15 passes using slow alternating strokes with light pressure before moving off of the brown rods. The last few passes should be done with a feathery light pressure. If it shaves well at this point the fine rods will have very little left to do.
 
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