Spyderco Sharpmaker

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Dec 6, 2020
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I recently purchased a Spyderco Sharpmaker, and I am here to report that I cannot sharpen a single knife with it. I have tried every which way. I have even tried to use the stones freehand. Nothing works. Not even close.

If Spyderco thinks that they invented the idiot-proof sharpening system, then, gentlemen, allow me to introduce myself: I am the idiot that proved Spyderco wrong.

Very frustrating. :(
 
What is the condition of the knife edges your working on? I couldn't freehand a knife at first because they were in very poor condition. Trying to restore severely rounded off edges with a manual system is a lot of.heavy lifting. Not sure if that is the case here.
 
My guess is your edge(s) are to obtuse thus resulting in you not hitting the apex but somewhere on the shoulder. Take a marker if you have one, color the entire bevel and takes some light passes and see where the stones are removing the marker. They work quite well but do have some limitations. Another thing I see is people really bearing down when using the SM, start off with light pressure and as you feel the sharpness increase really start to lighten up on pressure.
 
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did you watch Sal's video? What are you trying to sharpen?

Yes. Several times. In addition to a half dozen other videos on YouTube.

What is the condition of the knife edges your working on? I couldn't freehand a knife at first because they were in very poor condition. Trying to restore severely rounded off edges with a manual system is a lot of.heavy lifting. Not sure if that is the case here.

Four different knives. One is a poor quality steel with no edge at all. Another is a medium steel with a working edge. Two were Zwilling J.A. Henckels knives that could cut paper. (One of the Henckels had the factory edge on it.) So, the condition of the knives was from poor to medium. The quality of the steels was also from poor to medium. I will understand if I have to take these knives to a bench stone first (even though that's not exactly what Spyderco advertises), but I've got three brand-new Spyderco knives, and I'm afraid to touch them up on the Sharpmaker.
 
My guess is your edge(s) are to obtuse thus resulting in you not hitting the apex but somewhere on the shoulder. Take a maker if you have one, color the entire bevel and takes some light passes and see where the stones are removing the marker. They work quite well but do have some limitations. Another thing I see is people really bearing down when using the SM, start off with light pressure and as you feel the sharpness increase really start to lighten up on pressure.

I did the Sharpie thing. With regard to pressure, I was all over the place, from light to very heavy. The last session on the Sharpmaker, I finished with light strokes thinking I had to remove a burr. But that was just a guess from an amateur sharpener.
 
I did the Sharpie thing. With regard to pressure, I was all over the place, from light to very heavy. The last session on the Sharpmaker, I finished with light strokes thinking I had to remove a burr. But that was just a guess from an amateur sharpener.

Are you doing passes on one side and then moving to the other side or are you doing alternating passes? When you used the sharpie where was the marker being removed? One thing I have learned is the older I get the worse my eyes get and can be somewhat deceiving when examining edges. The marker may appear to be removed from the edge/apex however if you get a loupe or magnifying glass you can see that there is actually a small amount of marker left at the very edge. If there is even a hint of marker left then you're not quite there and need a little more work.
 
Don’t worry about a burr until you know you’re hitting the edge. Cover the edge with a sharpie and do a few light passes.
 
I would focus on getting one of the Henckels sharp before doing anything else. Don't bother with the white rods for know, just use the brown medium rods to get the knife sharp for know. Once accomplished you can add the fine white rods.
The kit is great at maintaining edges already established at 30 or 40 degrees, but I'm betting with NORTHWEST_KNIFE_GUY that your missing the edge, the apex.
Sharpie and your cell phones camera are your friend, a hobby shop magnifying glass works. If you have already tried a bunch of your knives, you might even clean the rods with some powder cleanser like barkeepers friend/Ajax and a new sponge with green scubie to start with freshly cleaned rods. The motorskill of keeping vertical heel to tip, counting, and rotating rods is gonna be useless if your not scrubbing right on the bevel's edge/apex.
The knife blades Sal sharpens are actually establishing the edges angle at 30 or 40 degrees, first with the brown, then refining the edge with white rods. You need to experience that success with a Henkels. Why one of those? Because the steel is a known quality that will not introduce potential problems into your first focused successful sharpening. Don't be suprised if it takes 40 minutes to establish the edge with those brown rods. Idahone makes course triangle rods that fit perfect, and would accelerate the edge establishment work, before moving to you medium rods.
 
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As has been said, If you use a heavy hand it will be more difficult to feel the rods doing the work, and that feel helps your brain learn to keep your hand vertical.
 
Grit ratings on Idahone rods are approximately 1200-1500 for the fine, 500 for the medium and 100-200 for the coarse. From notes,
Sharpmaker's factory rods: ~ diamonds and CBN are 400 mesh, or ~ 40 micron."
mediums, 12-14 microns, 800-900 grit,
fines = 7-9 microns = 2000-3000 grit,
ultrafines = 3-4 microns = 4000-6000 grit.
 
Very very difficult for a new sharpener to destroy both Idahone and Spyderco ceramic rods, way to easy to render diamond rods useless by not paying attention. Stay in ceramic family to start.
 
Are you doing passes on one side and then moving to the other side or are you doing alternating passes?

Both.

When you used the sharpie where was the marker being removed?

Yes.

One thing I have learned is the older I get the worse my eyes get and can be somewhat deceiving when examining edges.

My eyes are terrible. I was going to go to have them checked, but then the lockdown came. Let's not go into it.

If there is even a hint of marker left then you're not quite there and need a little more work.

Your point it well-taken. If I am running the knife up and down the damned stone, and nothing is happening, then I'm not making contact with the apex. But man, I've tried 30 degrees, 40 degrees, 45 degrees, 50 degrees. And, as above, I'm getting the Sharpie marker off. But it's like the knife doesn't care.

I ought to be banned from sharpening and remanded to court-ordered cutlery custody. :D
 
The kit is great at maintaining edges already established at 30 or 40 degrees...The knife blades Sal sharpens are actually establishing the edges angle at 30 or 40 degrees, first with the brown, then refining the edge with white rods.

Great post. Thank you. I understand what you have said. :)

Except this: Is the Sharpmaker good only for maintaining edges, or can it (as suggested in the video) establish edges?
 
For me on the Sharpmaker what I have found is that if Duplicate my grip and motions to what I do when I'm cutting I get great results.

So I don't focus on the edge so much as I do on making my motion consistent. The only knives I can't seem to get good results with are GEC slipjoints. For those I have one of these.

 
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