Spyderco vs Edgepro

jonburk,

One pointer. Make sure that any 'home made hones' for the Edgepro are the same thickness, as the thickness of the hone + backing plate effects the angle.

Ben's water hones are so reasonably priced, this might be your best bet.

.....................................and welcome to the community.
 
jonburk said:
I was wondering how one does that (what type of saw?).
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Something cheap and rusted, pick one up at a flea market for a dollar. Make sure the stone is *soaked*, it is many times harder if you try to do it dry.

-Cliff
 
Nosmo said:
Ben's water hones are so reasonably priced, this might be your best bet.

.....................................and welcome to the community.
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Agreed. You can even buy just the stones and mount them on your existing blanks (although I don't know how you get the old ones off).

The stones are so cheap from Ben (about $8 unmounted and $14 mounted), I'm starting to wonder if it's even worth trying to keep them flat.
 
Thanks for the tips. Ben's stones are good and a good price--I am experimenting mostly out of curiousity. I bought a few blanks from Ben and have been trying different abrasives. So far I have mounted a leather strop (the leather is almost exactly same thinkness as the stones Ben sells). Charged with LV's green compound it works very nicely (but only on a pull stroke). I have also used double-sided tape to mount a DMT diamond whetstone (which is also about the right thickness). Ben's waterstones only go up to 600X so now I am toying with trying to make a stone from a finer grit and using it in the Edge Pro. (I also have the tape-mounting blank and various polishing tapes so I guess this isn't necessary, strictly speaking.)

And thanks for the welcome. These forums are great.
 
As much as I love the 204 Sharpmaker I agree with the most of you that it really isn't designed to bring a knife around which has really been heavily battered. I have concluded that a guy should have either a coarse grit waterstone or coarse grit diamond benchstone to save you a lot of time. In my opinion I think that the 204 was mainly designed to do work on an edge that is pretty much had the relief already ground in.

Albeit I still think the 204 Sharpmaker is a genius design and every serious knife aficionado should own one. I have never used an Edge Pro but I have heard nothing but good about that tool. I would like to hear more feedback on proficient ways to re-profile a blade.
 
JD Spydo,

With the EdgePro, you can quickly reprofile the blade using the coarse hone. Since it dishes quickly, I prefer using either a 150x extra-coarse EZE-Lap hone instead or a 100x belt on a belt-sander.

If you need the knife to look as sharp as it cuts, it's better to stick with an EZE-Lap 6"x1" fastened to a stone blank (the piece of metal that'd normally hold a waterstone) and gradually reprofile with each sharpening (i.e. move it down ever so slightly with each resharpening session). That way, you get a sharp knife faster than otherwise (even if its cutting ability is limited by how thick it is) and the practice of properly using your EdgePro each and every time you break it out.

So says the man who chooses the top methods. :rolleyes: If you want, send me a knife and I'll sharpen it on my EdgePro and mail it back to you to show how even an inept person like me can make things very sharp. No hawkbills, though. ;)
 
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