Spyderco with a Demko Tri-ad Lock?

Status
Not open for further replies.
knarfeng said:
???. I have a couple of dozen knives with triad locks. I am 72 years old, a former cubical worker with hand strength suitable for manipulating a slide rule, and I occasionally find the slide catch on a Glock difficult to disengage for cleaning; but I have no problems disengaging any of the triad locks on any Cold Steel knife I own or have handled.
Click to expand...
You have physics on your side, Frank. It's not fair. ☺️
 
I believe Michael Janich said once that the blade on a Spyderco back lock knife would fail before the lock would. Maybe it was Sal? In any event, while I like the Tri-ad Lock, there is no critical need for it on a Spyderco.
 
No not for me . I have TONS of Cold Steel folders . . .
but
I've never liked that GAP near the pivot when the knife is closed . Seems to be a TRADE MARK of Demko knives . Especially the Shark Locks . Is that ment to be a bottle top opener or just a model of the Mariana Trench ?
Sorry ; this sort of big gap really bugs me .

Part of the reason I like my Paras and Sages ; nice, clean, filled in area there when closed . LOOKS SO MUCH BETTER .
To me the big gaps look like something on a prototype until they get the aesthetics hammered out for the first production run .

In addition Tri-ad Springs tend to be too strong / have to press the lock release bar TOO FAR into the handle to release the blade .
This is stuff I have to mod out of new Cold Steels that I get and rarely do I have the patience to just put up with the second rate action .
Nope , nope , nope .

It would be knice if Spyderco would finally and for all time get their back locks designed / refined to the point there is no more lock rock for ever and ever . . .
I bought brand new one of the very first Spyderco Sirens and the lock was / is PERFECT while all around there were many recalls . I've since bought another first generation Siren that I reground thin and a Second generation Siren with S90V . ALL THREE OF THOSE ARE PERFECT .

Then I just got a Manbug with the Salt Saver blade and a Manbug with the PD #1 blade and BOTH of those had pretty bad lock rock out of the box . I was able to get them both sorted myself with trial and reassembly .

Don't need Tri-ad just refined Spyderco Back Locks please .
 
Blues said:
You have physics on your side, Frank. It's not fair. ☺️
Click to expand...
I'm a pro mechanic for the last fifty plus years and have only Large glove size hands but pleanty strong judging by weight lifting and chin bar work .
My VERY FIRST Cold Steel was a Mini Tuff Lite purchased in 2013 and I still remember how it was out of the box and for weeks after :
to get the clip off my dress pants pocket took both hands and some strong tugs UNTIL I MODDED THE CLIP by thinning it out.
AND
out of the box , to release the blade I had to put one thumb on top of my other thumb and LITERALLY push the lock bar BELOW the surface of the handle or use the side of my boney index finger (softer flesh on just one thumb pad wouldn't do it).

Speaking of Physics . . .
in spite of my PRACTICAL KNOWLEDGE of heat treated springs (springs that are adequately heat treated do not sag permanently distort with constant pressure within their intended working parameters .
On advice here I clamped a tiny bar clamp on the lock bar for days .
MADE NO DIFFERENCE .
Finally I took the knife apart and unbent the spring a touch and took a smell off the bottom end of the hook on the lock bar so it could clear the notch in the blade sooner .

= perfect / civilized action for a tiny knife like this .

Next up was the three inch Holdout a year or so later.
Sure if I two hand the knives ; one hand folding the blade and one hand on the lock bar / handle they closed easier .
I just want to press the lock release and have the blade drop or push the blade spine lightly on my leg if it is not a good dropper .

This happens after the mods but not before . In any case I can't smile and do it at the same time . . . like say . . . an axis lock . . . which operates without a thought let alone requiring a good run at it and concentration like a Tri-ad requires .

I know how good mechanisms can and should operate and a Tri-ad out of the box is a bad joke.
 
Last edited:
My wife can’t unlock the blade on the Tuff Lite that we use as an end table knife. (Triad Lock) She has to hand it to me so I can close it.

I have no problem releasing the lock. She could probably drop kick my arse if she wanted to but she can’t close the Tuff Lite.
 
SharpBits said:
I believe Michael Janich said once that the blade on a Spyderco back lock knife would fail before the lock would. Maybe it was Sal? In any event, while I like the Tri-ad Lock, there is no critical need for it on a Spyderco.
Click to expand...
Years ago I was gifted a Delica by another member...my first (and so far only) Spyderco. Nice and slicey for sure, but after having a bunch of TriADs, I was a bit surprised by how small and shallow the lock interface is in comparison. Very little pressure to release.
 
I agree that the Endura doesn’t need it. Can’t remember the last time I needed my Endura to demolish brickhouses.

However, I’d love to see a triad lock on the Shaman, Military, or Police.
 
Railsplitter said:
My wife can’t unlock the blade on the Tuff Lite that we use as an end table knife. (Triad Lock) She has to hand it to me so I can close it.

I have no problem releasing the lock. She could probably drop kick my arse if she wanted to but she can’t close the Tuff Lite.
Click to expand...
Maybe because the TL is tiny and doesn’t have a lot of real estate to grab onto.

But yeah, there’s a world of difference between muh Spydercos and muh Cold Steels in terms of locks.
 
I have numerous Enduras due to availability in different steels. One of them I bought in 1992 marked G2 ( Gin 1 steel) I carried daily for 8 years . It has had occasional use since then usually for a week or two here or there. It functions smoother than when it was new and could easily become my daily carry for several more decades as an exclusive if need be. My point is though it doesn't have a Triad or Shark lock it does just fine and seemingly never wears out in my use. It's plenty strong enough for normal knife use it's life span seems to be "until I get tired of it and get something else".
 
From an engineering perspective, the stop pin between the blade and the lock is the point.

When you cut into material (like cardboard) it pushes the blade back and up into the lockbar on an Endura. You can can feel it flex on double thick cardboard.

With a Tri-ad lock, the stop pin (which is through the steel liners) absorbs that force. So there is no interaction between the blade and the lock bar.

That's the point. It's a better design that does not put stress onto the lockbar at all.

It's not about stabbing car hoods.
 
DocJD said:
Curious how you arrived at this factoid . 🤨

People who buy "hard use" gear , might possibly just have an actual increased need for such , compared to the general population .

Seat belt saved my life only about twice in my long life .

A few seconds , at most . A vanishingly small percentage of my total driving time . :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

So there are tons of people cutting pigs in half and stabbing car doors? That’s wild! Tell us more.
 
Back locks are my favorite and preferred lock. I prefer them to all other locks. The smoothest back lock I’ve encountered is on my Spyderco Chaparral. The stiffest was on a Tri-ad on a budget Cold Steel. It was stiff but nothing crazy and it broke in quickly. I do think the Tri-ad is a better and stronger lock, even though it’s probably not necessary for most folks.
 
I think the matter has been covered in sufficient detail from all sides. Pick your poison...or your passion.

Choose wisely.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top