Spyderco's H-1 > Testimonies please??

J

JD Spydo

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Nov 20, 2004
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There is another very interesting thread going about H-1 steel at this time and it is not my intention of diverting attention from that thread because they are bringing up some interesting information about H-1 blade steel on that thread. However with claims floating around that H-1 is a work hardened steel which the edge gets harder by simply using and sharpening it I would like to know how that translates for usage in the workplace or other demanding cutting chores.

OK what I want to hear is some testimonies from guys/gals who have used this steel a lot in their occupation and possible military use and endurance properties. I am hoping that some fishermen/women will chime in and tell us how well it performs on the job around salt water. The blade steel is obviously target marketed to people who work around salt water and other highly corrosive environments.

It's been great for me with the limited amount of use that I have put it through. The anti corrosive properties are astounding to say the least. I have a plain edged TASMAN and I have sharpened mine 3 times now but I don't really see better edge retention from the times I've sharpened it. Good or bad I want to hear the experiences you all have had with H-1 blade steel. I wouldn't even mind hearing how well other manufacturer's H-1 is performing as well.
 
Before it was eaten by my house, my Tasman was getting sharpened probably two or three times a week, depending on how many boxes it went through at work. I doubt I did much work hardening during the sharpening process though, because H-1 gets sharp again in about 3 strokes on a stone. Not enough strokes to make enough heat.

It's stupidly easy to sharpen, so it'll never get harder from me sharpening it:cool:

Also, I don't cut boxes fast enough to get the edge hot, which I believe also helps the work hardening. I doubt I use mine enough to get better edge holding, but I will testify as to it's corrosion resistance.

Many of the commercial cleaners used in my place of employment are incredibly corrosive, to the point that they'll bleach your pants within a few seconds of contact. I've had an S30V blade whose edge was partially eaten away because I forgot to wipe the blade down after contact, my H-1 blade was still pristine, no effect whatsoever.
 
Hi JD Spydo

Well I have used my Salt 1 for 2months now. Cutting boxes and digging out some sand at a excavation site near the see. Its edge retention has improved a great deal since I bought it, but it seems taht H-1 steel scratches very easely for me. I have some scratch marks on the blade from cutting cardboard.

Groetness
Marthinus
 
Yeah that is true if you plan on using H-1 it scratches easily so character marks are to be expected...rapidly upon first use.
 
I've cut boxes to the point that the entire blade gets pretty hot. However, I only had mine for about 2 weeks, so i don't know if it got any harder yet.
 
My Dear JD,

The original Tasman Salt prototype that I reviewed for Spyderco was nothing short of ASTOUNDING (God, I still miss that knife - there were a few differences in the production models, such as a smaller Spyderhole, etc.). After several months of using and sharpening it I could tell a significant difference in edge retention. Keep doing what you are doing, my friend - it will pay off!

--------
Hannibal
 
Does it still forms a burr when it's harden? I was having a diffcult time cutting off the burr on the SE salt 1, even more so than the S30v.

Do you guys lay the blade flat on the off side to cut the burr, or do u cut it as usual on the RE?
 
sherlockbonez said:
Does it still forms a burr when it's harden? I was having a diffcult time cutting off the burr on the SE salt 1, even more so than the S30v.

Do you guys lay the blade flat on the off side to cut the burr, or do u cut it as usual on the RE?
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Funny you mention that; I noticed the same thing with mine when I sharpened it.

I use mine around various chemical plants cutting insulation and lots of cardboard boxes. The blade had a noticeable increase in edge retention after a few sharpenings and some heavy use. I also noticed that the back edge of the blade seems to be pretty hard as well. I use mine a lot for scraping and chipping paint off of stainless pipe. At this point, it holds an edge as well or better than the S30V on my mini Manix. As far as corrosion resistance, mine has yet to show a single spot of rust on the blade. It's been in salt water, fresh water, lots of different cleaners, I used it to chip off some nasty battery corrosion, even dunked half the blade in some nitric acid solution. All I've ever done maintenance-wise is wash the dirt off in the bathroom sink. The Salts are probably my favorite EDC folders at this point. They haven't ever rusted and one of them got run over by a forklift without breaking, so durability is pretty good, too. :D :thumbup:
 
I have a Salt-1 Spyder-Edge, clipped to my PFD [personal flotation device] with my kayak gear. it does not get used much, just there for any emergencies that might pop up. It is fully exposed to the Atlantic Ocean salt water. I purposely did not do any fresh water rinses to the knife for a full season, no lube, no nothing. No rust or even the slight hint of water damage. Moving on to my Pacific Salt plain edge. I use this at work, cutting everything from tie straps, shrink wrap, rope, cardboard, reinforced beverage tubing and my lunch. It holds an edge, seems to be right up there with VG-10 for me, gets crazy sharp with almost no effort on the Sharp-maker. H1 is good stuff.
 
I haven't used my SALT on the job, but here's my two cents:
I have a plain-edged SALT that I bought when they first came out. It's been white-water rafting with me many times (fresh water) and has helped with some basic cutting chores around the house, too.
As can be expected, no corrosion whatsoever after the rafting trips AND it stayed clipped firmly in my pocket.
The plain-edge doesn't 'bite' into materials that I'm cutting as much as a typical higher-end stain resistant steel, but it does take and hold an edge rather well.
No complaints and I really enjoy using my SALT.

It was originally purchased to replace my C32PS Spur that I used to carry white-water rafting. That knife, while still in great shape, has been retired due to its age and collectibility.

Regards,
Mike
 
I've gone through several Salt series knives. They're work knives, used to open boxes, cut tape, open plastic bags filled with greasy food, etc. First I used a Pacific Salt SE (too big), then a Salt 1 SE (too small), then an Atlantic Salt SE (I still really like it), a Tasman Salt SE (the serrations would bind up too much), and have finally settled on a Tasman Salt PE.

As much as I like the utility of the SE Atlantic Salt, I'm sticking with the Tasman PE for work. It's just so damn handy. Nary a hint of corrosion (on any of my Salts). I touch it up every couple days on ceramic, and I've resharpened the blade completely twice now. The edge definitely work hardens. Most of the cutting is done with the first inch or so of edge nearest the tip, and that's where it's harder to sharpen. I can feel it in the steel when griding it with the ceramic; the edge is definitely harder where it's used the most.
 
Sharpening/grinding is not cold working / work hardening.
Heat destroys effects of (cold) hardened steel (this is called annealing).

Whatever are you experiencing sharpening it is not work hardening as this requires plastic deformation...

My guess is that with sharpening you may be getting rid of "not optimally performing part of edge, which occurs probably because of heat (annealing) caused by original edge grinding/sharpening with power tools.
 
huugh said:
Sharpening/grinding is not cold working / work hardening.
Heat destroys effects of (cold) hardened steel (this is called annealing).

Whatever are you experiencing sharpening it is not work hardening as this requires plastic deformation...

My guess is that with sharpening you may be getting rid of "not optimally performing part of edge, which occurs probably because of heat (annealing) caused by original edge grinding/sharpening with power tools.
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Actually Crucible did extensive testing and the H1 blade is work hardened through use and sharpening. This was evident in micro hardness testing that was performed on the blades.

A quick forum search can turn up the results for you.
 
Zatx said:
Actually Crucible did extensive testing and the H1 blade is work hardened through use and sharpening. This was evident in micro hardness testing that was performed on the blades.

A quick forum search can turn up the results for you.
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Actually I tried to search it. I found several references, some from Sal himself. However I haven't seen the report of this extensive testing. Have you? Would you be so kind and post it?

I'd really like to know why it behaved so (or how it behaved) as it's not how work hardening steels usually behave (sharpening or cutting stuff is not what is called work hardening / cold rolling).
 
I can't praise the virtues of H-1 enuff..... esp for a "user" blade steel...... could be my "holy grail" of clipit blade steel.... :rolleyes: :D
 
I sharpened mine last night, it got a bit harder than late last week. I was actually using it at work for the past few days to speed up the hardening process.
 
sherlockbonez said:
I sharpened mine last night, it got a bit harder than late last week. I was actually using it at work for the past few days to speed up the hardening process.
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I'm curious here guys? If sharpening H-1 is truly giving the edge a higher Rockwell hardness rating then with what HUUGH has stated combined with other bits and pieces of info that I have gathered I am wondering if we don't have something else in play here.

Consider steeling a knife blade for instance. Now it is a proven fact that a steel ( like the ones the butchers use) not only aligns an edge that has been through rough use but the steel also has a "burnishing" effect on a blade as well. Burnishing is something I would like for some of you "In House" Metallurgists to fill me in on. I do know that burnishing has certain effects on steel but to what degree it might change hardness on H-1 steel I haven't a clue :confused: .

But on the other hand the claims of some of these brothers I do believe that they are telling the truth. So maybe there are other factors that would act the same as work hardening? Anyone got an idea concerning what I just said whether or not that steeling as well as certian methods of sharpening could have similar effects?
 
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