Squaring up knife blocks

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Jan 20, 2013
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So I've had this issue for awhile. I don't buy many blocks, maybe a few a year so most of my blocks are processed in the shop. Some of it is cut with chain saws or on my 10 inch chop saw. Once it's all stabilized and done, I have a heck of a time getting the blocks square and usable. I know there has to be an easy reliable and cost effective way to do this. All's I want is squared up blocks, is that too much to ask from the knife gods?
 
If squared before stabilizing it's not terrible to re-square them. But it's a pain. I've started using a fly cutter in my mill.
 
Mill + Milling Head / Fly Cutter

Now I waiting for my own flycutter ( made by my) to flat steel and G10 before I get surface grinder.


This little guy is very helpfull :)
 
I square pieces up by hand on a 6x48 Harbor Freight disc and belt sander and on a disc sander I made that uses one of Nathan's discs.
 
any flat platen that's really flat, disc sanders work, patience required as in most parts of knifemaking
somewhere I read - slower = better, better = faster

squareness for knife blocks generally means flatness on the tang mating side.
under .005 for that surface should be fine

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I square them on a 6x48 sander/disc sander combo

And I also use 50 grit sand paper on a flat piece of glass.

Works great
 
I flatten one side by hand using sandpaper and a granite surface plate, then square all off that surface using my platen squared to the belt using 1-2-3 blocks to set the platen square.
 
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im a fly cutter most the time i am just loking to have 2 parallel faces for clean fit of guard and any other blocks
 
Are these large pieces? I don't know the first thing about making knives but have some woodworking experience.
 
So pretty much needs mill huh? Thanks, I'll add it to the list

You don't need a mill... but it sure is nice. I use a 2-1/2" face mill to make quick work of it. You end up with less fine dust and clogged abrasive than you would with a belt or disc.
Erin
 
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