Squashfan Vs CPM-S30V Round 2 (The next chapter in the Spyderco Millie saga)

[BluntCut MetalWorks]

I don't understand. Are saying that this knife needs a new edge? I set the hone on the Lansky as close to the existing edge as I could then I started with the coarse diamond stone. It was a little higher angle but not by much. Are you saying that I should have done more?

Yes.

Scratches from the bevel shoulder still lead all the way to the apex. Apex & um near it, you somewhat smoothened out the top of those factory scratches ridges. S30V is pita to sharpen using small stones, so mark with sharpie and go at it hard until uniform burrs the whole edge. Try sharpening stroke (the whole blade relative to stone - i.e. not blade spine elevation, aka bevel angle) at 45 degree angle, this way you can keep abrade until all scratches are at 45*. Yeah muscle up to teach s30v who's the boss

 

[Squashfan]

Yes.

Scratches from the bevel shoulder still lead all the way to the apex. Apex & um near it, you somewhat smoothened out the top of those factory scratches ridges. S30V is pita to sharpen using small stones, so mark with sharpie and go at it hard until uniform burrs the whole edge. Try sharpening stroke (the whole blade relative to stone - i.e. not blade spine elevation, aka bevel angle) at 45 degree angle, this way you can keep abrade until all scratches are at 45*. Yeah muscle up to teach s30v who's the boss

I did raise a burr on the whole edge when I sharpened it.
I don't understand what you mean but a 45 degrees stroke. Is that the "slice off a part of the stone motion" I see used so much? A continuous stroke along the whole blade?
But I have no benchstones, only the Lansky and I haven't gotten the new finer stones for it. But when I do get the stones, your saying that I need to work longer with the coarse stones right?

 

[BluntCut MetalWorks]

I did raise a burr on the whole edge when I sharpened it.
I don't understand what you mean but a 45 degrees stroke. Is that the "slice off a part of the stone motion" I see used so much? A continuous stroke along the whole blade?
But I have no benchstones, only the Lansky and I haven't gotten the new finer stones for it. But when I do get the stones, your saying that I need to work longer with the coarse stones right?

OK for Lansky, loupe look at the edge near the heel or tip - scratches there should be 45* to 60*.

Yes, work with coarse stone until all new scratches are from this coarse stone. Once you deburr this coarse edge, it will be really sharp. Finer stones are going to reduce toothiness of coarse edge, i.e. a refining process.

 

[Squashfan]

Thanks for putting up with a very tired guy. I am trying to learn and you guys are helping. Honestly, this thread has given more question than answers. Techniques that I am just going to have to try out and learn.

I think that I am going to get the Dia Paste. I was worried that the Dia paste would not last because it is such a small tube. However I am watching a video on Youtube and the guys says that he used two drops for an approx. 8 inch space on a leather belt. If gives results as good as the black/green is I will be very happy. With more stones for the Lansky and the Dia Paste I should be good to go. I can't imagine sharpening S30V with benchstones. I had a diamond set picked out but it went from 600 grit to 1200 grit. That would not do S30V.

Off topic: I wish we had a sharpening chat thread. Somewhere I could ask the million weird sharpening question that are always popping into my head but aren't worth a thread in their own right.