SR101 maintence questions

XtianAus

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I have given my rmd some fair use, mostly a looot of light things around the house and once or twice somewhat abusively to test if what i have read about sr101 toughness was true. The edge was fine for a while with ni corrosion. But within the past week (for unknown reasons) it has built up a grey/light black rust(?) I think.... that now covers almost the entire exposed edge and almost looks like dirt.

I personally like the look of it and its broke in character but i am curious as to if it will affect the performance? Being that it exists on the edge itself, can that affect its retention or strength?

And what is a good way to remove it? In its early stages when it was barely significant in size, i tried rubbing it off with a scotch-brite but it got to the point where the edge was cutting into the S-Brite to no avail.

I prefer to get it off and add a patina so to remove the potential for tetanus to form and so that it can be used in the kitchen...


Ps..i use mineral oil when storing it and keep it in its sheath.
Do you have experience with anything that works more effectively than mineral oil?

I can post pictures tomorrow if any of the answers to these questions depend on photos.

Thanks in advance.:thumbup:
 
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I'm no marine biologist, but I had the same thing happen with my RMD when I still had it. I reckon what you're describing is a sort of patina, which didn't effect my RMD's edge retention, nor did it negatively effect the strength or performance of the edge or blade.

To remove, I guess a fine grit belt or stone and a solid stropping should take care of it.

Some folks use Ren Wax, I use Natchez solution on my 'purdy blades- has worked pretty well so far.
 
I'm no marine biologist, but I had the same thing happen with my RMD when I still had it. I reckon what you're describing is a sort of patina, which didn't effect my RMD's edge retention, nor did it negatively effect the strength or performance of the edge or blade.

To remove, I guess a fine grit belt or stone and a solid stropping should take care of it.

Some folks use Ren Wax, I use Natchez solution on my 'purdy blades- has worked pretty well so far.

Thanks for the advice and clearing up my main concern as to whether or not the performance would be affected. Thats the most important part at the end of the day.

But as for the first part, it really doesnt look like a patina - i could be wrong. It looks more dirty, dark and bland rather than the sweet shine effect patinas bring. Plus i cant think of anything ive cut that would case a patina.

Watch this. Very interesting. I stopped using mineral oil and ren wax for rust prevention.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O7ZThs1y8xs

Veey interesting thanks. It appears mineral oil is one of the least affective...whoops :p
Now that you stopped using mineral oil and ren wax, have you switched to 3in1 and seen an improvement yourself? Or used something else

The only disadvantage i see to the 3in1s, despite it drastically improving the CR of steel is that its not food safe :thumbdn:.
 
Sounds like patina to me. Stropping it on black compound should get rid of it, if it bothers you.
I use Froglube on blades that I think have a chance of seeing any food prep. It's not as effective as something like CLP,
but works pretty well and is food safe.
 
Frog lube is coconut oil, use coconut oil and save some cash. I use mineral oil myself. If its on the edge I would remove it. If it had texture I would remove it. If it is just the patina I would leave it.
 
Thanks for that video link. I've been using mineral oil on food prep knives, which I need to rethink.
I use Frog Lube on all other knives. But, if it's indeed coconut oil, maybe it is safe for food prep too.
By the way, a similar, but even more extensive test of treatments was posted on YouTube a year or so ago. Frog Lube won hands down, even better then CLP. Wish I could find the link.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
So, if I use Frog Lube on my knife and Frog Lube is coconut oil, then should I hang my knife in the bear bag at night? ;)

I can imagine waking up to see a bear licking your knife... Wow, that would be one disgruntled bear! LOL

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
Patinas aren't shiny, there might be some shine still from underneath, but patina itself is dull & 'dirty'

Any fruit & veg, raw meat, if you cut any fresh vegetation - all of those will cause patina.

Don't overthink it, just use the knife, clean & dry it after use and you shouldn't have any problems.
 
I never put anything on my blades, just chop some stuff and it will come off pretty quickly

Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk
 
I have given my rmd some fair use, mostly a looot of light things around the house and once or twice somewhat abusively to test if what i have read about sr101 toughness was true. The edge was fine for a while with ni corrosion. But within the past week (for unknown reasons) it has built up a grey/light black rust(?) I think.... that now covers almost the entire exposed edge and almost looks like dirt.

I personally like the look of it and its broke in character but i am curious as to if it will affect the performance? Being that it exists on the edge itself, can that affect its retention or strength?

And what is a good way to remove it? In its early stages when it was barely significant in size, i tried rubbing it off with a scotch-brite but it got to the point where the edge was cutting into the S-Brite to no avail.

I prefer to get it off and add a patina so to remove the potential for tetanus to form and so that it can be used in the kitchen...


Ps..i use mineral oil when storing it and keep it in its sheath.
Do you have experience with anything that works more effectively than mineral oil?

I can post pictures tomorrow if any of the answers to these questions depend on photos.

Thanks in advance.:thumbup:

I'm 99.9% sure that what you're describing is patina. SR101 will move from red surface rust to dark patina with use. When I first started with SR101 that red rust concerned me, but a quality that SR101 has is that as you continue to use and oil it, it does not seem to corrode INTO the steel, i.e. no pitting. The patina actually seems to protect the steel from deeper corrosion. A darkened edge would not concern me at all and will shine back up with use and sharpening......and then dull down again and again. Elof's post above is spot on.

Here is a picture of a Ratweiler LE that is in satin SR101 that is taking on a patina:

 
I just use WD40 or CLP. If I'm using my knives for food I just wipe it off with a little soap and water or alcohol. No need to over think it. The only time I get rust or oxidation (gray) is if I use the knife and don't reapply the oil. Sometimes you have to clean the goo off the blade first of course.

If I get light rust I have this rubber block (like Cratex) that is impregnated with abrasive which I use to basically wipe the blade off. The block is made for cleaning and tuning snow ski edges. Then reapply oil. If you are careful it doesn't seem to de-tune the blade edge. https://www.cratex.com/Products/Rubber-Abrasives

Cratex Blocks and Sticks are excellent hand tools for cleaning and polishing metal surfaces, for breaking edges, smoothing away high spots, removing rust, heat marks, tarnish and stains. Designed for either manual or mechanical operation, they can be mounted in tool holding fixtures, chucks, or cradles.

SR-101 is amazing steel, but it can rust easily without care.
 
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My SR101 blades all develop a patina. The ones I use hard around my place don't often get cleaned after use. They will get a bit of surface rust, but that comes off with WD40 and paper towels, and more use. I love how it gets a nice patina. Reminds me of the old school blades and tools my grandfather used to have hanging in his shed.

When the knives do get a bit of rust build up, I don't really see any dulling of the edge. I do like to keep my hard use knives super sharp with a slightly rough edge, not a slick polished one. I find the edge lasts longer and cuts better.
 
I don't worry so much about a little rust, as that only effects the blades that I abuse on a regular basis.

But if it ain't red and dusty, It's not rust, IMO. the patina on my RMD ranged from light grey to d@mn near black- and changed every time I took it to the field and abused it.

Busse makes some tuff knives- they'll be fine.
 
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