SR101 maintence questions

Thanks for the advice everyone, ill just have to beat her some more and not look back. Perhaps it is patina because its not orange at all, if so ill keep her as is, i like the worn look :)
 
Seems like the best rust prevention for SR101 is to use it. Definitely my experience. I have approximately 15 Busse and family knives, only one is INFI. The bang to the buck ratio for SR101 vs INFI is ridiculous to me. As soon as I can get an SR101 CGFBM my INFI CGFBM will be gone and I won't miss INFI one bit.

I'm no HOG but people seem to forget Hogs were around a long time before INFI was. Be a HOG, or don't, but being an INFI'​phile does not a HOG make. All hail A2!!!!!!!!

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Shark01 said:
Watch this. Very interesting. I stopped using mineral oil and ren wax for rust prevention.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O7ZThs1y8xs
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Interesting video, but I'll probably continue using mineral oil for the most part. Cheap, food safe, doubles as a lubricant for my SiC oilstones, and I've never had a spot of rust develop on a blade that I've used it on. Granted, I'm not leaving them outside for three weeks :eek: but it seems completely adequate for some extra protection in my experience.

I am a little curious about some aspects of the test and wonder if the results would be different if the blades had been finished. Removal of scale, heat treat, blade finish, and patina could all effect the corrosion resistance of the steel and help explain why so many people report good results with options that performed poorly in the video.
 
inkynate said:
Interesting video, but I'll probably continue using mineral oil for the most part. Cheap, food safe, doubles as a lubricant for my SiC oilstones, and I've never had a spot of rust develop on a blade that I've used it on. Granted, I'm not leaving them outside for three weeks :eek: but it seems completely adequate for some extra protection in my experience.

I am a little curious about some aspects of the test and wonder if the results would be different if the blades had been finished. Removal of scale, heat treat, blade finish, and patina could all effect the corrosion resistance of the steel and help explain why so many people report good results with options that performed poorly in the video.
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Personally, I think that the test was good. Of course, the type of steel, the heat treatment, and the finish will all affect how a blade might rust. But, he removed the variable of patina by blasting each blank and cleaning them before applying anything. This was a good test to compare the various coatings against each other, and simply demonstrates how each works in comparison to others on the same blank. From this test you can extrapolate how a particular coating/sealer MIGHT work for your blade. There is no way to test every steel, every finish, etc. etc.

The test provided some data where no reasonably objective data existed.
 
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grogimus said:
Seems like the best rust prevention for SR101 is to use it. Definitely my experience. I have approximately 15 Busse and family knives, only one is INFI. The bang to the buck ratio for SR101 vs INFI is ridiculous to me. As soon as I can get an SR101 CGFBM my INFI CGFBM will be gone and I won't miss INFI one bit.

I'm no HOG but people seem to forget Hogs were around a long time before INFI was. Be a HOG, or don't, but being an INFI'​phile does not a HOG make. All hail A2!!!!!!!!
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I'm going the other way and adding INFI to my SR-101. But I'm only buying satin finish INFI and will only have a Basic 8, an INFIdu, and a Bunker Buster LE when the BB shows up. The rest are SR-101 including the TRASH 2 which I really like. All of them are users and fill different purposes.

SR-101 is a great steel and dollar for dollar is a better value than INFI, especially in any coated blade. And especially if it is a heavy user.

I chopped a bunch of limbs (1-3" diameter) off a tree in my back yard with a Ratweiler, a Rodent 7, and a Trash 1. They did a great job, when I used them on dried California Oak I did get a couple of very small chips, but considering how hard the wood and how hard I WAILED on it I was impressed with the cutting and edge holding.
 
I grew up carrying carbon blades and used nothing by 3-n-1 to protect them from rust. When I needed to cut something I was going to eat, I wiped the blade on my jeans, used it, put it away. Next time I got a chance, I oiled it again with 3-n-1. I'm 50 years old, and still no health problem. Doesn't mean I'm not carrying around cancer somewhere in my body that hasn't been found yet, though. I don't worry about it, though. I can still see fine, hear fine, and have all my teeth. I'm doin' alright. I use the nearest lube on my knives, only one of which is labeled as non-toxic. I don't use mineral oil. My SR-101 doesn't rust.
 
inkynate said:
No argument man, I thought it was good as well. I'm just curious, it got me thinking, etc...
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Yeah, same. I'm curious too, but this test did help some because I'm just joe-average user and don't have a lot of time to check them all out.
 
If you use and sharpen your knife any surface corrosion will be removed. It's nothing to worry about.
 
Update with pictures

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ALb1uGJ.jpg
 
Though I don't have SR-101, I do have lots of 1095 and O1 (and infi :)), and I have only used Ballistol on my blades--the stuff works great and is food safe (I just rinse and wipe the blade before I use the blade on food).

Ballistol
 
Tetanus? What makes you concerned with tetanus? That stuff thrives under aneorobic conditions, which is why puncture wounds can be of concern. But if you slice up some potatoes with a rusty blade, you are not going to get tetanus from your home fries.
 
resinguy said:
Tetanus? What makes you concerned with tetanus? That stuff thrives under aneorobic conditions, which is why puncture wounds can be of concern. But if you slice up some potatoes with a rusty blade, you are not going to get tetanus from your home fries.
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Yes correct, but i use the rmd for more than kitchen work and well accidents happen...i had a nasty stab wound in my wrist from it coming out of its sheath, bouncing off the couch and heading straight to my wrist.
 
Maaaate... you are way overthinking this stuff, especially the tetanus risk. It is a little patina/discolouration and is pretty much par for the course if you use your knife, you can probably strop it off (if you don't have a strop as such just use the back of a leather belt). I use mineral oil on all my blades including well used naked SR101. Any carbon steel will behave in a similar manner and is easily managed. I have been spiked with all kinds of rusty metal and am still OK .. ;) If you get a really rusty injury they will give you a jab.
 
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Mate, if you don't have a strop (:eek::confused::grumpy::barf:!!!) use a piece of cardboard (recommended by Ernie Emerson for sharpening!) to strop the edge.
 
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