SR101 patina or blueing?

resinguy

resinguy

Joined
Feb 19, 2006
Messages
14,591
Looking for some advice from the Swamp people.

Many folk have extolled the virtues of SR101 for edge holding and ease of sharpening. :thumbup:

Many folk have complained of the propensity for satin SR101 to spot or corrode. :(

As a guy who doesn't much like coated blades, it seems to me that the solution would be to force a patina or blue the naked steel.

What say you? Does that work in the real world? or is drying and oiling sufficient?
 
I don't oil my blades, they get cleaned every now and then and that's about it.
All the noncoated blades get a few sessions in the kitchen to acquire a natural patina. It seems to work for me, aside from occasional rust spot here and there, which will wipe off easily, no issues at all.
Actually I'm having less issues with SR-101 than INFI, all of my naked INFI blades get rusty in the talon hole.
 
Here's a shot of some uncoated, blued, and coated SR101. The 711 bites much deeper after having been stripped, and the bluing helps quite a bit against rust. I have used the 711 hard and the bluing will wear away after beating on it. I just resharpen and then rub some more blue over the whole surface and cutting edge (not necessary every time, but after hard use). It blends fine and just gets darker with more coats. Still requires a good oiling to prevent rust, but does not need near the care of naked SR101. I have not tried forcing a patina.

7j1n8Iv.jpg



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I'm in the same club as you in that I prefer uncoated knives. The very first Ratmandu I bought I immediately stripped and blued. I didn't use it as much as I thought but I processed some firewood, made traps, threw it, dug with it, and did other things I can't remember. No issues with corrosion. That was when I was living in the Pacific Northwest.

Fast forward to today and the humidity here in Hawaii hasn't created a corrosion problem yet. My brother, who is an avid hunter, ended up with the knife and he has gutted many a pig and deer with it. I'm surprised at how effective the patina is at shielding the knife from corrosion.

Btw, I forced the patina by soaking a paper towel in some lime juice and wrapping the knife with it. Really simple!
 
One thing I didn't mention is why I go for patina over blueing. As far as I know some of blues are not safe for food prep, and I come from assumption that a knife regardless of size might be called on for some food prep.
 
elof_alv said:
One thing I didn't mention is why I go for patina over blueing. As far as I know some of blues are not safe for food prep, and I come from assumption that a knife regardless of size might be called on for some food prep.
Click to expand...

That's a very valid point elov.
 
Yes patinas work. I can't say about SR101 specifically but I had an izula submerged in a river for about an hour and a half. It rusted on the bare edge but no rusting whatsoever on the rest of the blade which had a deep patina forced onto it. It's not a silver bullet as it will rust eventually but for general use by someone who knows how to care for carbon steel, it prevents it pretty well. I don't oil my blades either.
 
The difference between SR101 and INFI in this area is stark. In this photo is RMD LE vs AMS. The patina on the RMD was not forced, nor did I do anything to try to make that happen. It's just from regular use - obviously, there is more and faster oxidation when cutting citrus. But the AMS has cut many limes, oranges, etc and no oxidation at all. I actually really like the look of the oxidation on the SR101. Gives it character!
 
Hey Resinguy, I haven't seen you since waay back at Hammy's trough at the Westland show many many moons ago. I kinda changed my name a tad from Porkbilly. Having got that outta the way, I loved a patina period. No matter how it's achieved. Forced or real. I do think it helps with the prevention of surface rust. I agree with others on not bluing because of never knowing if you might have to use that knife matter her size to prepare food. I've always used the most acidic vinegar I could get my hands on. I stand the blade up in a vessel full of it over night. Then I wipe her down in the morning, let her air out for a tad, and stick her back in until bedtime for round 2. I usually do 2-3 coats. I don't know if the 2 and 3rd actually do much good but in my pea brain I think they might? Voila, almost instant protection. Wipe her down when done using her, (pants leg if nothing else) and then I'm so anal, I'll let her air out for a few minutes before I sheath her.
 
I wouldn't bother with a patina or bluing personally, the propensity for SR-101 to rusting has been severely overblown IMO. I mean c'mon guys, it's not exactly a simple carbon steel but rather a high alloy with a good amount of chromium. Keep it clean, keep it dry (or oiled if you prefer), if you get spotting you can't stand the sight of then take some scotch brite to it (or baking soda with water on a rag, toothpaste on a rag works too).
 
Red Angel, you're right but, I just like the looks of a patina, kinda like when I look in the mirror every morning.
 
Red Angel Dragnet said:
I wouldn't bother with a patina or bluing personally, the propensity for SR-101 to rusting has been severely overblown IMO. I mean c'mon guys, it's not exactly a simple carbon steel but rather a high alloy with a good amount of chromium. Keep it clean, keep it dry (or oiled if you prefer), if you get spotting you can't stand the sight of then take some scotch brite to it (or baking soda with water on a rag, toothpaste on a rag works too).
Click to expand...

I agree completely sir. My main user knives are O1, 1095, and SR101 all steels which people say will rust in .24 seconds. I have yet to force a patina on any of them and none are rusted, I simply wipe them off and mineral oil every now and again which work wonders.

However I cant argue that 52100 takes an insanely cool looking patina.
 
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