SR101 vs Infi

I have used my 3V knives harder than anyone I know, and I am happy with the results! Recently got my Fehrman extreme judgment but haven't had a chance to test it! How do they perform guys?I will try to test the knife as soon as I get time to go to the forrest!

3V is an awesome steel for outdoor use, its just about on par with INFI but its a little harder to sharpen and does rust a bit easier aside from that they are just about the exact same. Fehrmans are extremetly hard use knives just like Busses are, odds are if you ever doing something that will break a Fehrman that same task would have likely broken a Busse as well.
 
I have used my 3V knives harder than anyone I know, and I am happy with the results! Recently got my Fehrman extreme judgment but haven't had a chance to test it! How do they perform guys?I will try to test the knife as soon as I get time to go to the forrest!

Very cool. Let me know how it performs and post some pics. A buddy of mine is interested in getting one.
 
Thanks for the feedback, I will let you guys know as soon as I get a chance to beat the s*#t out of this baby ;)
 
Sorry to revive an old thread but I have a slightly more specific question. When people are comparing small knives it seems that what always gets thrown in for 'testing' is some hard use like chopping or what have you. I am buying a 2 knife combo, one for camp duties like chopping and other things and the other specifically for field dressing mainly fish but the occasional rabbit, squirrel, snake etc...

So the specific question I have is Vex in D2, Weiner or Bird Dog in 154CM, SS4 inINFI, RS with SR101 or lastly 375 ELMAX??

I like the fact that the Srap Max is very thin which for me is ideal for cleaning fish so I would want to see if it is feasable or advisable to also thin out the other blades (probably not as thin) and how that would affect the edge retention, sharpness and ease of sharpening of each of these different steels.


Five different steels all from Busse. Which steel in this situation is best for a slicer no hard use??

Thanks.
 
Out of the ones on your list my choices would either be the Vex or the 375. Personally my choice would be the Vex as I dislike res-c. That being said the Elmax will holds its edge longer than any steel on the list.
 
I have had all of them except the wiener dog. For pure slicing no hard use I really prefer the 375 in Elmax. I have used mine for trout and duck several times and it really shines. I don't know anything about the edge retention as of yet but I have only stropped it lightly and mine cuts like a laser and fits my paw well. RS and SS4 are good all arounders but much thicker and therefore not as good at slicing IMO.
 
The ELMAX 375 is my first choice. After everything I have read and all the testimonals I am certain it is perfect for my needs. That being said it is hard to get one right now so I have gone with a Weiner Dog as this was my second choice while I look for a 375.

Your comments on thickness is noted with the other types of steel. However, if one were to thin the blade out putting a FFG grind bringing thicknesses all down to roughly the same then what??

1. Is that possible to do with these steels? Reduce the thicknesses that way?
2. Would that reduce the quality of the blades if one did that?
3. If no problem to thin out the blades to the same thickness, approximately, then my questions in above post would need to be re-addressed and this is what I am really curious about.
** edge retention, sharpness and ease of sharpening of each of these different steels for a pure slicer / field dressing knife.

In other words i am very curious with the properties of the different steels.
 
If I understand you right you are talking about thinning the entire knife including the spine, not just putting a FFG on the knife. If so I have never done that and can't comment on how it will work.
 
The ELMAX 375 is my first choice. After everything I have read and all the testimonals I am certain it is perfect for my needs. That being said it is hard to get one right now so I have gone with a Weiner Dog as this was my second choice while I look for a 375.

Your comments on thickness is noted with the other types of steel. However, if one were to thin the blade out putting a FFG grind bringing thicknesses all down to roughly the same then what??

1. Is that possible to do with these steels? Reduce the thicknesses that way?
2. Would that reduce the quality of the blades if one did that?
3. If no problem to thin out the blades to the same thickness, approximately, then my questions in above post would need to be re-addressed and this is what I am really curious about.
** edge retention, sharpness and ease of sharpening of each of these different steels for a pure slicer / field dressing knife.

In other words i am very curious with the properties of the different steels.

First, there are a couple of ScrapMax 460's available on the exchange if you don't mind the extra length. I have one to sell but intend to give it a sheath first, then will post an ad for it.

1. Yes it is possible to FFG almost any knife, but it takes a lot of work and be careful not to over-heat the blade in the process. It might be worth the cost to simply buy a custom one from the shop.
2. If you grind the knife down yourself, you risk messing it up or over-heating the blade, but it can be done. However, the result would not have the structural support provided by the original design and you might void the warranty, so if it broke from prying you might be SOL. If you do not alter the steel matrix during the grinding, then the "quality" of the blade steel remains the same, but i am not sure if that is what you meant.
3. Highest Sharpness, as defined by apex diameter (geometry), is achievable in SR101 followed by INFI, then ELMAX, then 154CM and D2. This is based on carbide size, but all of these steels should take an edge sharp enough for any cutting task normally required of a knife of this size/design, i.e. a few dozen microns or less, less than is required for field-dressing.
With the proper abrasives, all will sharpen relatively easily but SR101 and INFI (with the lowest carbide volume) will evince the best response (i.e. quickest/easiest to touch-up). However, that assumes the same amount of metal removal is required for all, but a thinner edge requires less metal-removal to restore an edge of equal dullness, so it sharpens more quickly/easily. Using a diamond hone, you may find that a thin ScrapMax sharpens more quickly/easily than a Hog Muk or anorexic Basic 4 (both INFI), etc.
Edge retention also depends on geometry first - thinner knives encounter less resistance during a cut so cut more easily through more material - but at the same geometry matrix hardness and carbide composition take over. Ankerson has built up a list comparing edge retention is various steels (SR101 isn't on the list yet) HERE

Here is a chart comparing some of the steel compositions:
Bussekin Steel Comparison.png
 
As far as a single, easily repeatable Test:

The push cutting through clean new one inch organic rope.

Most Durable edge for the test so far has been the Asym.

Let us see a blade taped off to expose a two inch portion of blade.

We are looking for 2,000 plus cuts and the edge will still shave or drag up hair very readily.

As I remember, no knife other than Busse BM or Basic #9 has Ever Passed 1000 cuts in a Public test.

Or even 200 cuts as I remember.
 
As far as a single, easily repeatable Test:

The push cutting through clean new one inch organic rope.

Most Durable edge for the test so far has been the Asym.

Let us see a blade taped off to expose a two inch portion of blade.

We are looking for 2,000 plus cuts and the edge will still shave or drag up hair very readily.

As I remember, no knife other than Busse BM or Basic #9 has Ever Passed 1000 cuts in a Public test.

Or even 200 cuts as I remember.
You want to be real careful challenging others this way, I would direct you to Ankerson's steel testing page (hint - look where INFI stands in comparison). Most folks probably realize that this is a publicity stunt, steel composition and geometry have evolved to the point where the results are quite predictable. There are many steels out there that will smoke INFI in this particular area of edge holding.
 
Cool, a simple public test, done on video with witnesses with a plain Factory knife or Custom knife for that matter.

So easy to replicate.

Busse did it in the past, the record stands.

Heat Treat 52100 any way you like, bring on any other Steel you care to.

Is INFI still at the top of the heap?

Does what is currently sold as INFI compare well with the INFI of the past?

Many have claimed to be INFI killers, yet No one has stepped up to the plate with a simple Push Cut through clean New one inch hemp or Sisal Rope.

But then Neither has Busse in the last ten years.

I do not Challenge anyone, I am just Curious why Busse, who makes both INFI and SR101 lets people call the SR101 Better at holding an edge in Clean soft material?

I played with Both, side by side when SR101 came out 10 years ago and the SR 101 was a better Spring and Better for chopping concrete blocks and mild steel but fell far short in the cutting of clean pine and clean rope.
I gave away a lot of INFI knives and all three SR101 knives I had.

I have a dozen or so of the Newer smaller Busse INFI knives but have not used them much.


Edited to add, By Far short I mean less then 10% of what INFI would do ten years ago.

The Numbers and the edge types are public record, the tests require a bit of time and money (removing the coating makes the cutting easier)

At Some point I will take the time to see what Four of my newer knives will do, an anorexic Badger, a Culti a BAD and a Pork Belly Skinner.
 
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