stabalized wood

white which turns dark grey if it gets lodged in any pores. green leaves green color which is almost impossible to get out.
 
I've been hand sanding down to about 6-800 grit and then using birchwood casey gun stock wax.
 
Sand to as fine as a finish as you can get. I go to 8000 if it is a special knife. Then a quick buff (on a clean wheel that is not used for metal) with no scratch pink or white rouge. Don't buff the metal areas (tape them off) while buffing the handle, as this will turn the wheel black and may stain the handle. You can just hand sand to as fine as you want and rub in a oil finish as NDallyn said. You can also buff by hand with a soft cloth and a little bit of carnauba wax. When buffing knife handles, ALWAYS tape off the blade. Cuts make for blood which stains the handle (and everything else.....like the carpet, clothes, towels,etc.....), also there is a lot less risk of scratching the blade when taped up.
Stacy
 
Burnishing, is a word you don't hear much these days. People tend to think,

power equipment, when it comes to finishing.

Try this: When you think you have achieved the best possible finish on that

piece of stabilized wood, try burnishing it with a 9oz piece of leather. Use the

smooth side. Try this on blade surfaces also.

Fred
 
Excellent advise Fred! Jewelers burnish metal and sculptors burnish wood to make it harder and shinier. It will close up pores and pits on wood and metal. An old trick is a rotating wheel of hard maple to burnish the grain down on wood carvings prior to final sanding.
Stacy
 
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