Stabby Kukri (work in progress, help appreciated)

After due consideration I approve the latest guard. Now we need someone to wizard a couple photoshopped pictures up for final critique. Then we can whine and moan over the price until we find enough loose change in vending machine coin returns to pay for one.
 
yeah exactly no chirra at all, just a slab of metal, i love my malla , its exceptional
 
Thanks Gehazi keeping it simple will help with labor and maybe the price :)
Thank you -KJ- Glad you like the guard. I'm good with Photoshop on pictures of existing things. Lets see how it works on something new.

I keep reading up on Kukris to get more ideas. When I came across potential ancestors I stumbled over this beauty, a Falcata. Looks like what I was aiming for. Nice pointy and still an s-curve blade. Just a bit too long (its a sword)
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikiped...m_(Museo_de_Prehistoria_de_Valencia).JPG[/img
Falcata ibera y Soliferreum (Museo de Prehistoria de Valencia) [Public domain], by English: Unknown
Español: Desconocido
Français : Inconnu (Dorieo, 21/11/2008), from Wikimedia Commons
Falcata_ibera_y_Soliferreum_%28Museo_de_Prehistoria_de_Valencia%29.JPG


Other interesting pictures can be found when you oogle for "Kopis" and "Machiara".
 
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a forumite actually had HI make a falcata, and raven armory in england is going to release a reconstructed falcata in 2015 I think, falcata is a great blade
 
SDC11473_zps5725d26b.jpg
[/URL][/IMG] The khuk on the bottom is pretty stabby when it is sharp. It was my first large bladed knife and would be much better had it been made By H.I. Unfortunately it was made by Khukri House. the top edge is a really sharp concave grind and the bottom is convex... There for if you use it for back cuts it had a kind of hawkbill effect. The idea is awesome but the quality of this particular specimen is lacking. The Sirupate on top is 100 times better in all aspects of quality
 
I think that was just a "villager" finish Bawanna.
Bawanna said:
My oh my, break out the scotchbrite pad and mineral oil.
Click to expand...

Falcata is so cool! id give my right nad to own one of them!
Looks good Jens! I like the bayonet "hole" on top. I have an M1 short bayonet which was my first real blade and I always carried it around by the hole. It never had a strap just the wire bail but the hole was polished out from finger wear.
 
What do you guys think about this shark I which I made in photoshop? The blade is 12" and overall length is 17.5 Same like a KVLUK without the skull crusher.

I know the pointed belly should decrease functionality when chopping straight through wood and also be more susceptible to blade wear at that point. However in a pulling motion through softer things it should create much more damage since it hooks in instead of sliding along the surface like a smoother curve would.

I think it is time to get some O1 tool steel flat bar and start drilling, sawing and filing it into shape to see how this shape performs. The purpose would be to evaluate it before asking HI to do a custom version. Additionally if I do a good enough job on the mock-up then I will keep using it too of course :)

What thickness would be good? Can O1 be made thinner than spring leaf Kukris without compromising strength or does it have to be even thicker? For reference my KVLUK which I think would be sufficiently strong is 5/16 at its maximum thickness.
A slab of 1/2 x 3.5 x 18 inch would cost $115
with 3/8 inch thickness $87
with 5/16 inch $73
1/4 inch = $66
What would you pick?

Thank you!
 
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Thats cool! I vote 5/16ths. The "Schuetz Tanto Khukri" Wonder how it would look with a clip point? Pretty wicked like it is! Nice photochoppin job btw!
Jens Schuetz said:
What do you guys think about this shark I which I made in photoshop? The blade is 12" and overall length is 17.5 Same like a KVLUK without the skull crusher.

I know the pointed belly should decrease functionality when chopping straight through wood and also be more susceptible to blade wear at that point. However in a pulling motion through softer things it should create much more damage since it hooks in instead of sliding along the surface like a smoother curve would.

I think it is time to get some O1 tool steel flat bar and start drilling, sawing and filing it into shape to see how this shape performs. The purpose would be to evaluate it before asking HI to do a custom version. Additionally if I do a good enough job on the mock-up then I will keep using it too of course :)

What thickness would be good? Can O1 be made thinner than spring leaf Kukris without compromising strength or does it have to be even thicker? For reference my KVLUK which I think would be sufficiently strong is 5/16 at its maximum thickness.
A slab of 1/2 x 3.5 x 18 inch would cost $115
with 3/8 inch thickness $87
with 5/16 inch $73
1/4 inch = $66
What would you pick?

Thank you!
Click to expand...
 
Thanks Blue Lander and ndoghouse.
The Hawkchete looks interesting and it's quite cheap :) I put a picture of it together with my KLO (kukri like object) and a CRKT Triumph which also looked similar at first.
Having them side by side makes it easier to compare the size and angles.

I can see how the straight lines make it appear similar at first. If I would add a picture of my KVLUK blade you would see it has more in common with my KLO as I started from there. Placement of tip and belly and angle of the spine are virtually identical. I didn't expect it at first but when playing around the KVLUK turned out to be my best stabber as its angled more down than all my other HI Kukris.
The comfy handle is from my HI Amar Singh Thapar Kukri.
The guard is inspired by my G3 bayonet
and the coconut crusher at the bottom is just hand drawn by me but I cant rule out not having seen something similar before.

When the grips are parallel the points end up in very different directions. I like mine the best as it feels most ergonomical and makes for an ideal stabbing direction if one adds wrist movement to the movement of the arm. Another property which I think advantageous for soft things is the more pointed tip on my KLO. Keeping the blade at 12 inch is also a good compromise in being able to hold a distance but also be able to maneuver the blade if something is too close. Picture wrestling with a bear for example :p

I was tending towards 5/16ths too but will see if there are any more opinions :)
 
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When you put them side by side like that, they don't have much in common other than the angularity. Are you considering doing a different angle edge grind on the different parts of the edge, like a Tom Brown Tracker or Brous knife?
6869035.jpg
 
blue lander said:
When you put them side by side like that, they don't have much in common other than the angularity. Are you considering doing a different angle edge grind on the different parts of the edge, like a Tom Brown Tracker or Brous knife?
Click to expand...
On my Kukris I've different angles at different sections. But that's only at the very edge and doesn't go as far into the blade geometry as in the interesting knife you posted. How do you sharpen this? Wouldn't the lack of sharpening choils ( this piece would need 3!) create a mess after sharpening it a few times?
Just guessing and I'm no expert, maybe there's an easy solution?
 
I have no idea how you'd sharpen such a bizarre knife, those things go for $200+ so they're way out of my price range. My guess is that when you spend that much money on a knife you just put it on the shelf and never use it, so it never needs to be sharpened :)
 
image.jpg
This was what I made back in '95 or so along the same lines, but I was trying to stay traditional. The ring in the hilt does work as a stop if you thrust with a loose grip and snap it shut as it hits.
 
Thanks, and no it wasn't...and it's evolved over the years, as use and time take their toll on it.
Especially the wood. They aren't kidding about khuk hilts being short lived if you use them hard. That angular design you guys are working on would hit very, very hard if you built it so the peak in the belly was right at the point of percussion.
 
Re steel choice- I would go with 1084, 1075 or the old standby 5160. O-1 is trickier to harden and is never quite as shock resistant. I only use it for kitchen knives and straight razors. Aldo at NJ steel baron has Krupp 80CrV2 as well, which is .80 carbon steel with 5160 alloying. It's wicked stuff.
 
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