Stabilized Burl Testing Update

Joined
Dec 7, 2008
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I just wanted to give an update to those of you who have agreed to test our stabilized knife handle wood.
Before sending out any wood I wanted to do a lot of testing to make sure the wood was turning out exactly as I wanted it to. What I found was that the different types of wood had to be treated differently from each other (as I had expected)

I have made adjustments in how each type of wood is processed to be able to guarantee complete penetration of the stabilizing solution. Even so I am giving a final check before removing each piece from the stabilizing solution. If it has not sunk to the bottom of the pot it does not come out but goes through the process again until it does as it should (stays sunk).

After complete penetration of the solution is verified the wood goes to the heat curing. The oven I am using gave good results but in my opinion, not perfect. I ordered a new oven with features to insure a perfect cure. Namely; maintain an even temperature throughout while circulating air around the piece. After paying extra for 1 day delivery it looks like that translates to 4 days. Oh well. It is supposed to arrive on Friday the 19th. I will then do some more testing with the new oven before I heat treat the piece I will be sending to you.

I am estimating that the wood will be ready to ship on Tuesday. I will be sending the wood by Priority mail so it will arrive soon after it is shipped.

I wanted to take the extra time to make sure that the piece you get is just right. With the time and care you put into your knives, I figured I should do the same with the wood you will be using for the handle. I will make sure that the piece you get will do your knife proud.

Thank you again to everyone who agreed to test the wood. I will look forward to seeing the photos of your finished knives and hearing what you have to say about the wood. The woods I plan on using will be buckeye burl, maple burl and some really unusual underground redwood burl.

Thanks, Mark @ Burl Source, aka: It's a Burl
 
What temperature are you heating the wood to? I found I needed to heat to 250 degrees for 3 1/2 hours to cure the Resinol 90C. I use an old kitchen oven I have in my shop.
 
With the soft wood like buckeye and very spalted wood 225 worked good after an hour. Hard woods like maple and walnut did better at 250. I think it has something to do with getting an even temperature through the whole block. I will be doing each batch with an individual wood type with one piece as the disectable test piece. Might be overkill but it only takes one bad piece to kill your reputation.

I am really happy with the results. I took a piece of overly spalted maple that was as punky as it could be and still hold together in one piece. After stabilizing it was hard and smooth, no open pores. I am leaving a little extra to trim away after curing and it is working out really good.

The final test is going to be from hearing what you guys have to say about how you like using it. I think we're all going to be happy.
 
Sounds very good. I appreciate the care you're taking to ensure that everything is done right.
 
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