stabilized Handel's vs. non stabalized oil finshed

[chknifemaker]

I saw this recently on the forum but I lost it....someone did a test to see which was better(I think it was something like leaving the different woods outside for a long period and see which held up best) does any one either know where that is or what the results where?
Thanks

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I don't think there is a real answer to the question of which is better.


First off - No good knife should be left outside for a long time. That isn't a valid test of anything.

Testing one in hand use over time is. Many knives of both handle types have held up well for years, others have not. It is often a difference in how they were stabilized/finished and how well they were shaped.

Different wood types also require different treatments.

 

[Salem Straub]

As Stacy says, it all depends. What wood, what stabilizing, what shape and what surface finish. And, outside where?

As Michael Rader says in another thread, even stabilized wood can have a porous surface. I think the best weather proof wood would be a stabilized material with any surface porosity filled with additional oil surface finish, or a superglue finish.

 

[HallHandmade]

IME, well stabilized wood isn't simply a block of plastic, it leaves the grain open just enough to still be wood, and still stay workable as well.

Stabilized wood, of certain species in particular, soaks up a LOT of oil during finishing, so I suspect it is a lot more porous than most folks think.

I have kitchen knives from the 50's that have quality hardwood handles, still in use today. Yes, they've shrunk some, and a couple have small cracks, but none have lost their functionality.

Stabilization is just another way to include quality and durability into your knives, but a knife being high quality and reliable is not exclusive to stabilized woods, as long as you make the right choices with the wood you do use.

 

[james terrio]

I really don't think it matters, at least as an either/or question.

Both stabb'ed and natural woods need care and attention to reach their highest levels of good looks and durability. If you're starting with quality materials and procedures, either way can work very, very well.

I've come to think of professional stabilizing as largely a way to utilize great-looking woods that otherwise simply wouldn't be strong or hard enough for a knife handle - burls, spalted pieces, etc. Not as a way to just ignore finishing needs or the possibility of dimensional changes down the road.

If absolute maximum stability and minimum maintenance is what's needed, I use G10 or carbon fiber. They'll never be as pretty to my eyes as figured wood, though... dang compromises...

A naturally strong figured piece (say walnut or maple) that's professionally stabilized and perhaps dyed, and properly finished, will get you very close to a perfect score in all areas of looks and performance.

 

[jawilder]

I made a set of kitchen knives using professionally stabilized maple that was attached with corby bolts and West Systems G-Flex. The customer's sister in law threw the paring knife in the dishwasher, not knowing any better and the wood came out warped and separated from the tang about 1/32". That taught me the lesson that stabilized wood is still wood. It has the potential to shine up better than nonstabilized and as James mentioned, it can make useable wood out of burls and punky wood. But other than that, it is still a natural material and subject to elements.