Stabilized Scales

Balin

Balin

Joined
Sep 1, 2008
Messages
62
Just got my first stabilized scales today. I got one set in Claro Walnut crotch burl, and one set in extra curly Koa. Both show as highly figured and beautiful on e-bay. Ripped open the box to see these beauties, and they are truly ugly. :eek: :eek: Dark to the point of being almost black, (even the Koa,) and with sticky resin (the stabilizer) unevenly coating the surfaces. I have worked a lot of wood, but never stabilized wood. Is this how they are supposed look before you start working them? How about breathing the dust from this wood? Is it toxic? I am a bit nervous that the stabilization medium may have altered the appearance permanently. :confused:

Is there any handling or working procedures I need to be aware of to work stabilized material, or do I just work them like regular wood? Do they need to 'cure' for a certain amount of time as an example? They are still a bit 'sticky;' I think if I were to put them on a fuzzy towel, they would come up with a lot of permanent fuzz that needs to be sanded off or removed with a cabinet scraper.

Any insight is appreciated!

Thanks,
Balin
Si is est tardus quam mihi, is est victus! :D
 
Stabilized woods that I have used tend to be a bit darker and heavier than the natural wood. Several different methods are used for stabilization including some "home-made" recipies so I can't advise about toxicity. I just figure everything is bad for me and always wear a respirator. I have gotten some stabilized wood from ebay that is like you describe...I think the acrylic stabilizer has a "oxygen inhibited layer" that does not quite harden on the outer surface. I have found that one pass across a 60 or 80 grit belt seems to remove this and then its just normal grind, shape and polish. Hope this helps.
 
Unfortunatly there is no set standards that someone doing so called stabilizing must adhere to. I have tried several people/companies and so far have only been happy with WSSI. There are a few others who do an OK job, and plenty of them do a horid job. The wood that has been stabilized by WSSI works like a plexiglass wood hybrid. It is dry easy to sand and polishes like dream. It is also quite heavy from 50% to 100% heavier than before stablizing.

When you try working the stuff be sure to use a respirator.

Some pics would help.

Also I dont think there is anything wrong with letting us know who it was you purchased the wood from.
Finally I would not use this wood on something you planned to sell until you have tested it some. If it never gets dry I am afraid you are out of luck.
 
For what its worth.
Mike at WSSI said he had trouble stabilizing Claro Walnut BURLS. Because of this he sent back the Claro Walnut portion of my shipment un stabilized. This problem might not be true to all processes because I have seen it stabilized. It was really black but it did cure properly.
I hope the helped.
 
Last edited:
www.stabilizedwood.com

That is the link for WSSI - Mike Ludeman is the owner. He's a straight shooter - will tell you what probably works - and sometimes - if you are willing to take the risk, he'll pricess something he has his doubts about.

He is IMHO - the best.

Rob!
 
The lot I got back from K&G a year or two ago was very dark with sticky resin on the
surface. I let it air out a while, as much to get rid the the stench as anything else and
have been gradually fly cutting pieces clean (I find that easier than sanding). Every one
has been lighter and good solid material under the goo. Most of them did darken somewhat but I expected that.
 
Ya, i was gonna say that same thing. Mike at WSSI wont do Claro Walnut cuz of problems hes had with darkening....hope yours works out
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top