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Stabilized
- Thread starter v-6
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I sent a batch off to WSSI not to long ago. Check out their site for pricing.
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- Nov 24, 2003
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WSSI or K&G. Pricing depends on total weight after stabilizing. WSSI are the leaders. I used K&G at J. Nielsen and Mike Spenger's strong recommendations and was quite happy with them. Stacy is a big WSSI customer.
K&G is a bit cheaper. I think that WSSI can do larger pieces and will do dying and double dying for you.
Note that your wood must be very dry before sending it off.
K&G is a bit cheaper. I think that WSSI can do larger pieces and will do dying and double dying for you.
Note that your wood must be very dry before sending it off.
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
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Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Both companies do a good job. I find WSSI cheaper in large batches. I am a firm fan of Mike at WSSI.
Stacy
Stacy
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I have had Good quality work from WSSI !!!!
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Hi Friends,
Do any of you have any tips on how to best prep ones material for stabilizing? For instance, how close to finished size do you cut your pieces? Also, are there any ways to rough guess moisture content without test equipment?
I have some koa I might like to try to work with (see attached). I've also been playing around with keawe (mesquite, front piece in pic) which is an extremely hard wood. Any one have any experience with it? Can/should bone and antler be done as well?
How foolish would it be not to stabilize? What finishes might be a somewhat acceptable alternative?
Thanks, Phil
Do any of you have any tips on how to best prep ones material for stabilizing? For instance, how close to finished size do you cut your pieces? Also, are there any ways to rough guess moisture content without test equipment?
I have some koa I might like to try to work with (see attached). I've also been playing around with keawe (mesquite, front piece in pic) which is an extremely hard wood. Any one have any experience with it? Can/should bone and antler be done as well?
How foolish would it be not to stabilize? What finishes might be a somewhat acceptable alternative?
Thanks, Phil
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- Nov 24, 2003
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Remove all wax, varnish, etc. Remove all rough burl ends you don't really want -- they'll soak
up the stabilizer like mad and you'll pay for the result by weight (wish I'd known that the first
time). Expect some warping. None of my pieces were badly warped and a few sets of scales
I threw in as a gamble came through fine, but I was asking for problems.
Telling how dry without a moisture meter? I haven't done this but have repeatedly read that
you can weight the pieces every month, record the results and when the weight stops
changing they are dry.
up the stabilizer like mad and you'll pay for the result by weight (wish I'd known that the first
time). Expect some warping. None of my pieces were badly warped and a few sets of scales
I threw in as a gamble came through fine, but I was asking for problems.
Telling how dry without a moisture meter? I haven't done this but have repeatedly read that
you can weight the pieces every month, record the results and when the weight stops
changing they are dry.