Stabilizing stag question

i4Marc

i4Marc

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Oct 19, 2011
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Does the pith need to be removed before stabilizing? Does stabilizing eliminate the need to remove the pith?

When wood blocks are stabilized, the exterior of the blocks get slathered with resin. How can the surface texture and color be preserved when stabilizing stag tapers? I imagine cleaning up caked resin from the surface will be a nightmare.
 
Why would you need to stabilize stag?
i4Marc said:
Does the pith need to be removed before stabilizing? Does stabilizing eliminate the need to remove the pith?

When wood blocks are stabilized, the exterior of the blocks get slathered with resin. How can the surface texture and color be preserved when stabilizing stag tapers? I imagine cleaning up caked resin from the surface will be a nightmare.
Click to expand...
 
Some people run thin CA resin in the pith to make it hard and "stable". that works well on soft pith antler. try and avoid getting it on the outside. The actual antler part is fine as-is.
 
From the K&G website: "We custom stabilize wood, stag, ivory, horn, bone, oosic, etc."

I wasn't sure if it was necessary or not.
 
You doing scales or a hidden tang? What kind of stag?
 
ok. It would be for a hidden tang. Not as pronounced as popcorn but fairly good texture. Got it from Masecraft at one of the Jersey City shows a while back.
 
Ok then, let me ask you this. I recently purchased a sheet of Abalone laminate from Motherofpearlcc (12mm thick) in the for sale area. should that be stabilized? The edges have some small voids so I'm unsure how solid it is in the middle.
 
Just fill any holes or pits in the MOP with CA after sanding. Laminated MOP sheets are tricky, so work slow and keep it cool and wet. Fresh sharp abrasives are a must.
 
Can I jump in and ask about whitetail? My brother is wanting me to make a hidden tang. Thin CA into the pith?
 
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