Stabilizing wood help

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hppyevraftr

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I'm stabilizing some fiddleback maple with polyurethane & just not pleased with the way it looks. Too dark & caramelly looking.

I TOTALLY understand when you dampen wood it's going to darken up a bit, but also JUST using polyurethane all by itself seems like it:
A. Takes too long
B. Sanding the wood later, it never looks like the stabilized wood I buy, until I sand the crap out of it w/ 10,00000 grit.

Does anyone else use any mixtures or solvents other than polyurethane, any other mixtures out there, that they stabilize wood with and are pleased with the results? Much Help Needed please.

Thanks :) Peace :)
 
Ohhhh! I tried Minwax Wood hardener all by itself.......it was ok, not as good as pure polyurethane. So Minwax Wood hardener is out too in advance!
 
Neither polyurethane or Minwax WH will stabilize wood properly ( or much at all). It requires a different type of acrylic resin , pressure and vacuum, and the right catalyzing agent and conditions. Home stabilizing is not usually anything near professionally done stabilizing. I send all my wood to WSSI, and it is stabilized straight through. The color shift is none or minor. Curly maple looks suburb when done by them. The curl stands out a bit and gives a 3D look.
 
bladsmth said:
I send all my wood to WSSI, and it is stabilized straight through.

The color shift is none or minor.

Curly maple looks suburb when done by them. The curl stands out a bit and gives a 3D look.
Click to expand...

Do you get curly maple dyed at all then ?
what works well ?
 
I have been fooling around with dyeing maple with good results.I dye it before I stabilize it.

Jim
 
Trying to do you're own stabilizing is generally a lost cause, unless you take the time, effort, and $$ to do it right. That requires a pressure vessel, the correct chemicals, and a lot of effort. Jim (boatbuilder) is one of the few individuals who I know of that has taken the time, effort, and money to get it right.

If your trying to stabilize, thinking to save money, your barking up the wrong tree. There is not even a remote comparison to the money aspect of it, between having it done professionally, and gathering/building/purchasing everything you need to do it right yourself. I played with stabilizing for about two years....and the simple fact that is if you want a quality product, your way ahead by sending your woods to someone like WSSI.
 
+1 on Eds comments.

I spent way too much $$ trying to get it right. Never happened. I even built a pressure/vacuum vessel. It is much cheaper to either send it out or buy the wood already done. This way you know what you are getting and not taking the gamble of it looking good. I use K&G and am very happy with the service and product. Wssi provides a good product also. Good luck
 
Maple dyes nicely, and the curl dyes darker. I often dye it tan. WSSI will do the dye and stabilization at the same time.
 
You guys ROCK ON! Thank you so much.
I really thought sooner or later I was going to figure it out.........it sounds like it's totally not worth it.
Thanks so much fellas, much appreciated! Seriously, thank you.
 
hppyevraftr said:
Does anyone else use any mixtures or solvents other than polyurethane, any other mixtures out there, that they stabilize wood with and are pleased with the results? Much Help Needed please.

Thanks :) Peace :)
Click to expand...

Try these..MIX BY WEIGHT, NOT VOLUME. Does not include iniators or specific cross linkers designed to enhance surface toughness or sandability. Be careful as you could end up with a flaming bomb or ER visit also. Good luck!!


a) about 15% of hydroxypropyl methacrylate;

(b) about 20% of triethylene glycol dimethacrylate;

(c) about 10% to about 15% of dicylopentenyloxyethyl methacrylate; and

(d) about 50% of a water emulsifiable unsaturated polyester.

OR....

(a) about 40% of triethyleneglycol dimethacrylate;

(b) about 25% of dicylopentenyloxyethyl methacrylate;

(c) about 20% of diethyleneglycol dimethacrylate; and

(d) about 15% of a water emulsifiable unsaturated polyester
 
Larry D. Davis said:
Try these..MIX BY WEIGHT, NOT VOLUME. Does not include iniators or specific cross linkers designed to enhance surface toughness or sandability. Be careful as you could end up with a flaming bomb or ER visit also. Good luck!!


a) about 15% of hydroxypropyl methacrylate;

(b) about 20% of triethylene glycol dimethacrylate;

(c) about 10% to about 15% of dicylopentenyloxyethyl methacrylate; and

(d) about 50% of a water emulsifiable unsaturated polyester.

OR....

(a) about 40% of triethyleneglycol dimethacrylate;

(b) about 25% of dicylopentenyloxyethyl methacrylate;

(c) about 20% of diethyleneglycol dimethacrylate; and

(d) about 15% of a water emulsifiable unsaturated polyester
Click to expand...
Larry, I nominate your post for "Post of the Year"!

I'm sure all the chemicals you listed are what make up Minwax Wood Hardener and/or Resinol 90C. Everyone is now running to Home Depot to get the chemicals and stabilize their own wood! (sarcasm off)

Seriously, thank you for showing there is a HUGE difference between professional stabilizing and a boiling liquid in a mason jar with an attached brake bleeder hand pump.
 
I strongly disagree, Its actually very simple. You can build a pressure tank out of Plexie glass. Mount a one way valve with silicon & make sure your fitting are wrapped with thread tape so you have no leaks. Go ahead and splice in a pressure gauge wile your at it so you can tell what your pulling. From there all you need is a vacuum pump from Harbor freight. Buy some stabilizing resin and get to work. Throw your scales in the oven wrapped in tin foil for about 2 hours and your done! There is no fancy science behind this, Just simple engineering.
 
IMHO, Really bad advice!!!
This is a three year old thread. I will close it due to the thread age. Anyone wanting to resurrect this argument on home stabilizing should contact Mark at Burl source or start a new thread.
 
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