Stabilizing wood some spaulted birds eye birch

[milesofalaska]

I am encouraging others to stabilize their own wood. There have been advancements in resins, and methods, to where it is not the deep secret, nor as hard as it once was. I think it is possible to get nice results at home. Some may not know as much I do, others my have had more experience. So would like to both share what I know, and hear what you have learned.

I’m excite to have discovered birds eye birch. Anyone heard of it and is there other birds eye pattern in woods to look for besides the usual maple and elder? I discovered the pattern on a ‘root wad’ after a forest fire in what would normally be below the moss line.

I like the idea of finding local wood not usual mainstream. So far I played with diamond willow poplar alder and varieties of birch. I make sure I seal the ends soon after cutting. But in general find it is not necessary all the time to let it dry a year. Others may have had experience and know the factors effecting why some take longer. Already dead wood, softer woods, spaulted types seem to need the least time. A simple moisture meter helps but also putting bocks close to being try in an oven at 250 make sure . I have not had a warp crack problem. What woods might I have a problem with? Assume heavy hardwoods but not sure.

Above dyed blue, some spaulted birch , below some willow. Willow is naturally orange

I’m having a lot of fun. I settled on cactus juice after trying a dozen other secret sauces. I’m told the vacuum is most important and the pressure cycle is not even needed. I’m not so sure. What’s your experience? I am having trouble getting resin and dye into the willow so suspect my methods only partially work and only on some woods in some situations. I have tried a variety of experiments. I have no source for high pressure beyond about 80 pounds. One friend long ago said he was paying with intense hydraulic pressures into the thousands of pounds. Lots of money. I’m in hopes that is not necessary. I have never run a vacuum more then a total of 24 hours. Usually just 1-2 hours, pressure then vacuum again. To get my results does not take more then $100 worth of equipment. An old compressor from a freezer for a vacuum pump I’m told works fine. I have a bell jar to set a pan under (From Rio Grand I think $80 or so) to vacuum in.

 

[milesofalaska]

I got a private long reply concerning resinol 90. Heard of it, no good source, think shipping to Alaska issue. But interested in trying. In a week going to be gone a while, not in business, so will wait till I get back into the groove. Here is more birds eye spaulted birch from last batch.

More pictures and info on my site http://milesofalaska.net/wood/
Those of you wanting small free samples of raw wood to try out let me know.

 

[Boatbuilder]

I found that I need both vacuum and pressure to get wood completely saturated with resin. Some wood takes it fast some much slower. Some wood I found takes up to 2 months using vacuum and pressure to get complete penetration.
I also have been dying wood but I do that separate from the resin. This is a real good test to see how fast the wood is being penetrated. I always put in some test blocks and after 2 weeks of vacuum/pressure I will pull a block out and cut in half to see if I have full penetration. If not it goes under vacuum/pressure again until it has complete penetration. Once I have complete penetration I take wood out and completely dry -(10%) before I put back in vessel for stabilization process.
Jim